newbie: 1800es b230ft conversion?

hey guys, i'm new. i currently have a 72 1800es, i recently acquired. it's currently my daily driver. but the b20.. i'm not such a fan of. i realize it's one of those motors, that simply won't die, but it's weak, it rattles, (no matter how much i adjust the valves) there's not exactly alot of d-jet parts laying around.. not to mention, the m41 trans is making noise. the rear end is geared so low, that 80mph trips, on the interstate, the motor is wound way up, and sucking gas down...the long and short of it, is.. i think a b230ft and a t5, or m47 trans would make the car alot more fun, and i could put a more highway friendly gear in it.

problem is, i haven't found very much info on this particular swap. i know it's been done, but i was hoping someone could chime in, and maybe give me a junkyard grocery list, or hints.. i know that i will need conversion mounts from yoshifab, and the oil pan/pickup is different. but past that, i haven't really found much info. right now, i'm just looking to figure out, what i need to get the motor/trans bolted in, drive shaft, etc. later on, i'll address, engine management, fuel system, intercooler, etc..

Some of these problems are easier solved local; like knowing a nearby driveshaft shop who can make you a custom piece or modify an existing one. As far as junkyard grocery list goes, I vote for a craigslist find 700 series car as a donor.

Also, bump for some experience.

yeah, we've got a local, shop, that can cut a drive shaft. and i work at a hotrod/fab shop, so, i can MAKE this happen, but the less cutting, welding i can do, the better. i'd rather just get junkyard or conversion parts, where i can. it seems like i've heard the tunnel in an 1800, is a little small for a t5, or m47 trans, i guess that's the kinda thing i need to know. and it seems like i read, that i need to use the b20 oil pan, and pickup, although, i'd be thoroughly amazed if the oil pans swap between engine families. stuff like that is what i'm wanting to confirm.

Ditch any plans for the M47. First, the gear ratios are all wrong with your 4.10/4.56 rear end. Second, if you mount the engine upright the trans will be slanted at about 15 degrees.
You might look into a T-9 trans, similar to the T-5 but narrower. Adapters are available that allow you to mount either upright or on a slant.
The oil pan is interchangeable, but you have to have the oil pump modified (shortened).
All of this info and more is on Turbobricks, but the search function isn't very good. Do your search with Google and include "turbobricks" in the search title.

The tunnel on the ES is fine. That's what I have in my 131. I used an avalanche adapter the dual position one and an m46 (47?) bell housing. My car was an auto model so I used the pedal box from an ES as well. The trans mount is inthe right place so with minimal mods (a little cutting and boxing) and a urethane trans mount it all bolts up. The original cable fits inthe right place and clamps in place as factory.

I used the avalanche adapter in case I get a wild hair and go for a 16v mill later on. A nice warmed over B20 is in the bay for now. Fidel gave me flow and compression ant I thnk it will be fine. Use the v8 t5 and volvo p plate and throwout bearing. Clutch disc is whatever was right diameter and spline count (10 as I recall).

As for djet... Inject it but use mega squirt on that b20. The conversion is not rocket science at all and the injectors are just fine but low impedance so a fly back or resistor packs are needed. An 850 TPS is a bolt on with RSIs adapter.

For less money and DIY effort the microsquirt will work fine too. Has a nice harness with environmentally sealed connector and is compatible with dsm cas which will all fit a b20. There are some well sorted pushrod motors on the forum... Gsteller's as a case in point. Chime in Gary, any time... Hep me out here! Gars car runs like crazy.. In an 1800? I get nice dreams on that!

The b20E motors were rated at 130 hp at the flywheel and with flowed f head and bumped comp can get that at the rear wheels. I'll take a, little valve lash noise (can't hear it from the drivers seat any way, right?

Nice way to start and less fab as with the ohc motors. Intake room is limite in the upright motor and exhaust is on the slant motors. Of cours e upright and a wilwood brake pedal and clutch may open up the drivers side a lot.... More fab though.

Sorting through the options is a bear any way you look at it.

Beel

as to the m47 gearing being wrong, for my rear. part of the point of this, is to get a more powerful motor, so i can step the gear down to like a 3.55, or somewhere along in there. as you all well know, turbo cars LOVE a a numerically lower gear. IF i were to keep the b20, i'd just put a pair of su's on it. having owned god knows how many 240z's i'm very familiar with them, and super simple. if i bother putting together a stand alone, it won't be for a N/A b20. i want a car, i can have a little power, take long 80 mph trips on, get decent milage, and hear my self think. the b20 is just not the motor for that.

pretty much i'm going to do an engine swap, ideally it's going to be a b230ft, with a gt3076 hanging off of it, i've also, thought about a turbo 2.3 ford. but i'd kinda like to keep it volvo.

also, where is it stated, that i need to mount the motor upright?

thanks for the replies, so far.

Take a look at this build a few threads down:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=286522
Here the swap is straightforward and clean, non-turbo, but makes for an excellent improvement over the B20 D-Jet.

As an n/a, you could get there with a lot of motor build and keep the B20 either ms it or carbs, can get to 200 hp. I would do this on an 1800es just to keep it orig.

The simplicity of a nearly drop-in motor, a B23 or B230F with some mods and a cam can go a long way in an 1800. The Webers just fit when the motor is tilted over, nothing else.

There's no room to squeeze a turbo into the space on the pass side of the 1800 if you tilt it. I have seen a B230FT in an 1800 and when mounted vertical the intake gets in the way of the brake booster and needs a pancake style, or even shortened runners.

i saw the thread you posted, but i never really saw anything specific, as in "i used this part, these mounts, that trans, etc"

also, is this not tilted? and i'm not being sarcastic. it loooks pretty tilted. but the pics are not all that great

Stephen, ill just have to come down this week to weld this diff and we can stare at our two engine bays so you can figure out what's going to have to happen.

that's fine, i'm free any night this week. just let me know.

bueller? bueller?