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Old 01-13-2019, 04:39 PM   #326
Sander
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Originally Posted by arsenix View Post
Ah. Got it. That makes sense if you are using an earlier IRS tank. After poking around a bit I think I can swap a 93+ fuel gauge into my cluster with a little wiring modification. That should work with the later sender just fine. So I can put the tank back together with my Walbro... call that "Finished"

I am using the Mk2 IRS. I'm planning to dump the leaf spring and the heavy lower control arms and even heavier thrust arms for some lighter custom components and stick a coilover in there.
If you can swap the clusters, that should work Are you keeping the stock diff?

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Originally Posted by brickcupra View Post
Hey Nice job, I am a mig welder and just this week I began practicing tig. Of course is crappy till I get the hang of it and I wanna get a raise for as well , Dying to get back to my project , Is been a while ( October ) since I caressed my Cupra. Best of luck . DZ
Thanks! Tig welding definitely takes some time to get the hang of. Still have a lot to learn myself. Best way to learn is to just do it.

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Originally Posted by reiernumans View Post
The thing is, everything that's readily available is played out as F, the Simons stuff isn't stainless and I kinda want some custom stuff anyway lol. I've checked with a couple of pro exhaust shops but sh*t gets expensive quick. Might be interesting to chat about it sometime, no rush though.
I must say I have no idea about Saab aftermarket availability etc, but shouldn't be too difficult to make something for it.

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Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
Niiiice. Good busy
Thanks :P

In other news, a small fortune in argon later and the headers are almost done. I wasn't happy with the last runner of the right rear manifold, so for the sake of symmetry and to get a bit more room around it I decided to change it.











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Old 01-13-2019, 05:39 PM   #327
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If you can swap the clusters, that should work Are you keeping the stock diff?
Can't swap the whole cluster since the 93+ cars had the different cluster shape... mine is the early 740 dash. I think the fuel gauges are physically interchangable (we shall see). Bonus I'll get a low fuel light!

Given power goals (600-700 hp) the Volvo diff is not going to last long. I'm debating whether to just get it going with the Volvo diff anyways for the sake of time. Project is going slow enough! What I'd like to do is probably swap in the aluminum 8.8 diff from an explorer. Will be lighter than stock, proper LSD, should hold the power and fairly cheap. ThePoi stuffed one into one of the Mk2 IRS subframes and I've exchanged some messages with him about it. Seems fairly straightforward... especially if you just buy custom halfshafts and don't worry about changing any of the outboard drivetrain.

How did the 850 coilover work out? I'm looking into maybe using a koni "cut-a-strut" inside the factory 960 strut tubes. That would open up a lot more selection.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:39 AM   #328
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Those headers are awesome, this build keeps getting better and better.
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Old 01-20-2019, 12:33 AM   #329
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Tig, I JUST BEGAN LEARNING HOW TO TIG SOLO AT WORK IN MY BREAK TIME, IM A MIG WELDER SO THIS WILL GIVE ME A BETTER IDEA HOW THE FINISHED WORK SHOULD LOOK LIKE AND AWESOME SKILLS DUDE!!!!
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Old 01-20-2019, 03:15 PM   #330
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Are you Dutch too?!
I would love to see this in person!

Do you have Instagram?
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:05 PM   #331
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Goedemorgen Stefan! Sander is one of the OG dutch turbobrickers like me, Mr Borrie, JW240, Cojones and many many more
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Old 01-23-2019, 02:12 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by Sander View Post
Valve body out and removing the solenoids and conductor plate (black thing):

Nice work on the 722.6
Factory rebuild = the pressure regulator spring should have been replaced.
(mine came out in 5 pieces)

Great work on this build. Very impressive.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:26 PM   #333
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Those headers are looking the bomb! Didn't you have a lot of trouble with warping and them not fitting the collector anymore?
How you've managed to do the welds all the ay round so close to the collectors is beyond me as well :P.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:20 AM   #334
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Originally Posted by arsenix View Post
Can't swap the whole cluster since the 93+ cars had the different cluster shape... mine is the early 740 dash. I think the fuel gauges are physically interchangable (we shall see). Bonus I'll get a low fuel light!

Given power goals (600-700 hp) the Volvo diff is not going to last long. I'm debating whether to just get it going with the Volvo diff anyways for the sake of time. Project is going slow enough! What I'd like to do is probably swap in the aluminum 8.8 diff from an explorer. Will be lighter than stock, proper LSD, should hold the power and fairly cheap. ThePoi stuffed one into one of the Mk2 IRS subframes and I've exchanged some messages with him about it. Seems fairly straightforward... especially if you just buy custom halfshafts and don't worry about changing any of the outboard drivetrain.

How did the 850 coilover work out? I'm looking into maybe using a koni "cut-a-strut" inside the factory 960 strut tubes. That would open up a lot more selection.
Yeah the Volvo diff isn't going to hold anywhere near that kind of power. An 8.8 should hold just fine. I didn't use 850 coilovers just yet. The ones on there now are from classicswede, we'll see how they hold up. I'd love a set of Ben's JRZ coilovers somewhere in the future.

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Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
Those headers are awesome, this build keeps getting better and better.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by brickcupra View Post
Tig, I JUST BEGAN LEARNING HOW TO TIG SOLO AT WORK IN MY BREAK TIME, IM A MIG WELDER SO THIS WILL GIVE ME A BETTER IDEA HOW THE FINISHED WORK SHOULD LOOK LIKE AND AWESOME SKILLS DUDE!!!!
Thanks! It's a fun thing to learn

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Originally Posted by Stefan940T View Post
Are you Dutch too?!
I would love to see this in person!

Do you have Instagram?
I am, that can be arranged of course . I do have instagram, but I don't really post much there. There are like 3 pictures on there or something.

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Originally Posted by J2_ View Post
Goedemorgen Stefan! Sander is one of the OG dutch turbobrickers like me, Mr Borrie, JW240, Cojones and many many more
Not many seem to be very active here anymore though

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Originally Posted by Willard View Post
Nice work on the 722.6
Factory rebuild = the pressure regulator spring should have been replaced.
(mine came out in 5 pieces)

Great work on this build. Very impressive.
Thanks! I found they didn't just rebuild it, but also put the latest version valve body in there. It has a completely different spring, it's way bigger than the old version.

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Originally Posted by Opgedronken View Post
Those headers are looking the bomb! Didn't you have a lot of trouble with warping and them not fitting the collector anymore?
How you've managed to do the welds all the ay round so close to the collectors is beyond me as well :P.
Thanks! No not much issues with that. The collectors aren´t fixed in place yet, so I just took them off during welding and removed 1 or 2 runners from each header, completely weld them and then put them back and slip the collector on again. They aren´t fixed in place yet, I still have to take them off again and seal them, but I´ll do that once I made the connecting part for the secondaries on each collector. Ideally I´d just weld them all the way round on the inside of the collector, but I don´t have a TIG torch small enough to fit inside there. I´m still on the fence whether or not to just buy a micro torch (they aren't cheap) and just weld each runner all the way round on the inside of the collector instead of trying to seal them with this special super high temp sealant. How's the Miata coming along?
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:31 AM   #335
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ha! sander.. those finished headers look like an HR Giger Alien symbiont hehe! awesome!
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:12 PM   #336
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I'd just leave them like this, they're supposed to seal even without the sealer so welding may be overkill.
The Miata's still at about the same point as it was before the winter, I'm not such a badass and hate working in the cold :P.
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Old 02-09-2019, 05:20 AM   #337
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I'm planning on running an X pipe, but I'm not sure where it'll have to go under the car. I'll have to wait until the drive shaft is done before I know how to route it all there.
What wonderful artistry! I'm enjoying every page, getting a wealth of great ideas even though I doubt I'll ever squeeze a V12 into anything.

I don't know if you'll have a whole lot of freedom to choose your X-pipe location, but if you do... Years ago I read an interesting method of determining where: spray a little bit of plain (not heat resistant) paint down the length, run the car a few minutes, see where the paint wrinkles first. That'll be the hottest point, which is where you need a crossover. I've never heard exactly why; wouldn't surprise me if you already know...

Tell us about the following pic: I can imagine that the latex glove is a visual indication of sufficient flood of shield gas? If so, that's a pretty neat trick!

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Old 02-09-2019, 07:23 PM   #338
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What wonderful artistry! I'm enjoying every page, getting a wealth of great ideas even though I doubt I'll ever squeeze a V12 into anything.

I don't know if you'll have a whole lot of freedom to choose your X-pipe location, but if you do... Years ago I read an interesting method of determining where: spray a little bit of plain (not heat resistant) paint down the length, run the car a few minutes, see where the paint wrinkles first. That'll be the hottest point, which is where you need a crossover. I've never heard exactly why; wouldn't surprise me if you already know...

Tell us about the following pic: I can imagine that the latex glove is a visual indication of sufficient flood of shield gas? If so, that's a pretty neat trick!
Thanks for the kind words! I haven't heard of that trick, but it's worth a try. Although looking at the underside of this thing, I think the location of the X pipe will be mostly determined where it'll physically fit. Once the driveshaft is in place, I'll know more.

Regarding the latex glove, that's exactly what it's for. It's a cheap way of getting an indication of the actual flow when using back purging. Just cut a hole in one of the fingers. You want the glove to just slightly inflate. Not inflating at all is not enough flow and an inflated glove means you're wasting argon. I'm using a single bottle of argon with dual flow regulators, so I can just set the back purging flow rate at the bottle, but the glove just gives a nice idea of what's actually going on.
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:04 PM   #339
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Wow, incredible craftsmanship to create those beautiful headers. I'm sure that I don't comprehend a fraction of the skill and planning it took to create those. Amazing!
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:35 PM   #340
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Thanks for the compliment! Porgress has been painfully slow due to work, but that'll get better soon. Decided to get myself a micro tig torch and just weld the runners in the collector on the inside. It's the only way to get it to seal properly. I did make a bit of progress on what will be the linkages to each itb. I'm going to do it like BMW does on their M engines; 1 linkage per throttle body to a central shaft. The 2 central shafts will then connect to a common throttle spool that is operated by the throttle cable. I'll also run a vacuum tube (also like BMW does) that connects to the itb's injector ports and connects them together and those will also run through an idle controller to get active idle on it.









Progess might be a bit slow as well in the near future as I'm designing and building a CNC Router and plasma cutter (1 machine). Once it's finished, it will help a great deal with the stuff I still need to make. To be continued.

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Old 02-15-2019, 10:35 PM   #341
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Awesome work on the CNC/Plasma Cutter. I'm interested in seeing how that turns out.

Is there anything you can't do?
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:55 AM   #342
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Progess might be a bit slow as well in the near future as I'm designing and building a CNC Router and plasma cutter (1 machine). Once it's finished, it will help a great deal with the stuff I still need to make. To be continued.

Cool project! But why did you decide to go with ball bearings instead of linear guideways with a router?
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:14 PM   #343
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Cool project! But why did you decide to go with ball bearings instead of linear guideways with a router?
Thanks! I went with the round linear rails and bearing blocks mostly due to cost and the fact that they are a bit more forgiving to misalignment. From what I've seen with other people using them, they should be accurate and stable enough for what I want to do with it. I'll use it mainly for wood, plastic and aluminium.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:55 AM   #344
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I'm very interested in what you've got planned for idle control. I'm currently running without, and while it's fine, it would be nice to have good idle cold starts without my input.
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Old 03-23-2019, 04:48 AM   #345
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No progress at all yet, been a bit distracted with other stuff. Finally got myself a lathe :D It's a Mondiale Celtic 14 from 1961 (370mm max diameter and 1m between centers), it hadn't been used for a long time but seems well taken care off. Cleaned everything, changed the oil in all 4 gearboxes and repainted it green again. Wasn't a fan of the blue.











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Old 03-23-2019, 11:02 AM   #346
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go get some AvE danger stickers!
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Old 03-23-2019, 03:34 PM   #347
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Nice lathe! Repaint looks good too, thats a lot of work.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:15 AM   #348
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I can only imagine the sound this thing is going to make.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:23 AM   #349
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Seriously, that’s a task! Love how you did the hand wheels.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:26 AM   #350
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I can only imagine the sound this thing is going to make.
No need to imagine -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=I5ZIomet8Yk
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