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Old 05-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #476
Mbeas96
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Leds are a good idea. That was my thought, that the pulses are to short for themultimeter to pick up so it just reads 12v constantly. I wired in the new connector and it seems I have 12v on both outputs all the way till the connector at the coil. 12v right before the connector, but if you check the pins it shows 0v.

So either I fudged up the reading before or both connectors had bad pins in them. Most likely I messed it up. But this time I'm positive there is 12v going to the coil on both outputs but somehow loses all voltage thru the 1-4 pin. I'm gonna try and grab some crimp connectors and do away with the land Rover connector for testing purposes
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:30 PM   #477
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It's running on all 4!! Crimped on some relay connector butts that I had and pushed them onto the coil pack. Fired instantly and runs smooth! I didn't let it run long because I now need to go back thru and resolder everything I cut and twisted together.....

But it's running!! I'm estatic right now!
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Old 05-26-2019, 01:30 PM   #478
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Originally Posted by Mbeas96 View Post
It's running on all 4!! Crimped on some relay connector butts that I had and pushed them onto the coil pack. Fired instantly and runs smooth! I didn't let it run long because I now need to go back thru and resolder everything I cut and twisted together.....
But it's running!! I'm estatic right now!
So the issue was a poor connection at one or more of the terminals at the coil?
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:42 PM   #479
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Yes. Apparently the pin for 1-4 in the female connector going to the coil is corroded or something. I cut it off and used butt connectors to connect it directly to the coilpack pins.

I mean, I wanna say I didn't buy another igniter connector for nothing...but at least this one has a longer pigtail coming from it...
So now I'll buy a new bosh 3 pin connector off ebay and should be good to go.

Last edited by Mbeas96; 05-27-2019 at 08:41 AM..
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:10 AM   #480
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Originally Posted by Mbeas96 View Post
Yes. Apparently the pin for 1-4 in the female connector going to the coil is corroded or something. I cut it off and used butt connectors to connect it directly to the coilpack pins.

I mean, I wanna say I didn't buy another igniter connector for nothing...but at least this one has a longer pigtail coming from it...
So now I'll buy a new bosh 3 pin connector off ebay and should be good to go.
Careful with the ebay connectors, they're often not the sealed type. I bought a pack of them which came with wire seals but the holes were square so the round seals didn't actually work. The Bosch OE part number is 1237000039 and should also come with a rubber boot which further helps reduce the chance of water ingress.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:17 PM   #481
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Hi guys. Unfortunately I have to add myself to the no startup list after installing my WS board. (Black WS board, only purchased a few months ago).

My symptoms are only an occasional pop as the car cranks. There is a spark but its very weak.

From what I've observed my logic level output from the WS board is very low, for the most part between 0.5 and 1v per channel as it cranks. That seems to result in erratic and short switch on/charge time for the coils, hence the weak spark.

Ok I'm pretty experienced at auto electrical wiring, so I'm confident I've got it all wired up right, including having the WS board outputs reversed. I've installed the WS board in two different EZK boxes with the same results. I've checked the wiring in the EZK to the WS board many times, the solders are all solid, I've got continuity with very low resistance between the pads on the WS board and the back of the PCB. I don't think I've cooked anything.

Does anyone have some ideas/experience with low WS board output that they can share?

(Edit: I have taken the time to read this entire post looking for ideas...).
(Edit2: I'm using a second hand J702T amplifier, and have swapped it for a new HUCO 138403 amplifier with no change, so they both seem good)

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Old 07-06-2019, 05:12 AM   #482
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Disregard the above... I have it working... turned out I either damaged my EZK (white label ...152, 16v EZK) or it doesn't like the WS board. I soldered the WS board into another EZK, more carefully, (pink label ...169, 8v EZK), and that did it. It runs.

So for the record I'm running a B230F +16v with it. Coil per cylinder. Bosch HEC715 coils, which have a similar dwell requirement to the recommended Bosch 2x2 coil recommended for the WS board.
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:21 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8186Volvo244 View Post
Disregard the above... I have it working... turned out I either damaged my EZK (white label ...152, 16v EZK) or it doesn't like the WS board. I soldered the WS board into another EZK, more carefully, (pink label ...169, 8v EZK), and that did it. It runs.

So for the record I'm running a B230F +16v with it. Coil per cylinder. Bosch HEC715 coils, which have a similar dwell requirement to the recommended Bosch 2x2 coil recommended for the WS board.
Hey, I didn't see your earlier post, but good to hear that you've got it figured out. The 152 EZK isn't one that I have experience with - so it's possible this one may not be compatible with the Buchka Wasted Spark board.

If anyone else has experience with wasted spark on a 16V EZK, positive or negative, please feel free to chime in.
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Old 07-07-2019, 05:56 AM   #484
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Hey, I didn't see your earlier post, but good to hear that you've got it figured out. The 152 EZK isn't one that I have experience with - so it's possible this one may not be compatible with the Buchka Wasted Spark board.

If anyone else has experience with wasted spark on a 16V EZK, positive or negative, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks for getting back to me Duder. I had a bit of a search. There is a green 152 and a white 152 EZK. Mine was white, no EGR, came from a Aussie 940GLE 16v. The green ones may be +EGR. Iíd definitely be interested to hear if anyone else has successfully modded one.

Also some further setup feedback if anyone is interested: After a couple of drives the car is starting to run a bit rough, driveable, but not as smooth as initially. The idle is very choppy with the AFRís bouncing around erratically so I think Iíve fouled a plug. Perhaps the Bosch HEC715 coils need a longer dwell time. I wasnít really getting the big blue sparks that others have reported with them. Iíll inspect the plugs and report back.
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