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Old 07-18-2019, 12:29 AM   #1
colgate41
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Default Starter removal tips

I just wanted to share a little tip for removing the starter on 740s. I suspect my starter is bad but I wanted to test it off the car. Cut to me cursing under the car and trying every extension/univesial joint I had to no avail.

I read up on removing it here and other Volvo forums but felt like I was out of luck. Then it hit me! A stubby wrench! I went out and bought a stubby 18mm wrench that is about 5Ē long. It fits perfect on the top starter bolt and then all you need is a piece of wood and a hammer. Get the wrench on the bolt, position the wood on the wrench (closer to the firewall) and give it a good smack or two. The bolt should break free and you know the rest.

Anyway, just wanted to share Incase this helps anyone in the future.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:17 AM   #2
dl242gt
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Good one! Use of an easily affordable special tool and a hammer. Always nice when a hammer is used for repairs.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:24 AM   #3
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Thanks for the tip with photos! I knew I having a hammer in my mechanics toolbox would be useful. My brother asked me why I put a hammer in every tool box I have...
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:15 AM   #4
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Just hope it helps someone down the road! I have a one year old now so I can't be wrenching away for days on end to remove one bolt
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:11 AM   #5
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Nice help with the removal process, tight areas suck

Is bench testing starters a trusted practice?

In my experience with last 3 starters that failed, the bench test off the car has always tested them good. But with out load it's hardly testing anything. First time this happened to me I was 100% the starter was good because advanced auto put it on their bench tester and it spun freely with no problems. Put it on the car and nothing...
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:49 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Mbeas96 View Post
Nice help with the removal process, tight areas suck

Is bench testing starters a trusted practice?

In my experience with last 3 starters that failed, the bench test off the car has always tested them good. But with out load it's hardly testing anything. First time this happened to me I was 100% the starter was good because advanced auto put it on their bench tester and it spun freely with no problems. Put it on the car and nothing...

Went out the other day and not nothing. No clicks, nothing. Battery I brand new and power is getting to the starter. Figured Iíd get it off and test it but I have a feeling itís done. Looks really old and may have taken some water at some point.
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:33 PM   #7
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Use a breaker bar in a vertical position to drop down and wack the starter on the solenoid a few times. If it works just keep a bar with you tiill you change it. I think the solenoids get sticky. Mine only did it when the engine and driveline were hot. Be careful of the battery connection and hit the solenoid further back.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:25 PM   #8
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I just use a 1/2" impact gun, extension, and a universal joint- ZIP ZIP!
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I just use a 1/2" impact gun, extension, and a universal joint- ZIP ZIP!
Is that a battery, electric cord or air gun?

I just use a breaker bar in a vertical position along the firewall...crack goes the bolt.



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Old 07-18-2019, 10:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I just use a 1/2" impact gun, extension, and a universal joint- ZIP ZIP!
Me too. Milwaukee electric impact FTW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dytha99 View Post
Is that a battery, electric cord or air gun?

I just use a breaker bar in a vertical position along the firewall...crack goes the bolt.


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How does a breaker bar fit? All mine would be hitting the firewall of the car if they were angled up even with a short socket. Especially on a 240.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
Me too. Milwaukee electric impact FTW.


How does a breaker bar fit? All mine would be hitting the firewall of the car if they were angled up even with a short socket. Especially on a 240.
Only works on a 7/9 with the hood at 90 degrees.

Breaker bar along the firewall...extensions as needed added to the handle...crack.

It's tight but it can be done.


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Old 07-19-2019, 10:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dytha99 View Post
Only works on a 7/9 with the hood at 90 degrees.

Breaker bar along the firewall...extensions as needed added to the handle...crack.

It's tight but it can be done.


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Hm. Works on both of the top ones? Iíve never had enough room. Iíll have to try again.
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Old 07-19-2019, 12:00 PM   #13
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I haven't turned a bolt by hand in a while. I use electric tools mainly. In this case I would be using my 1/2" air gun. I have heard good reviews about the Milwaukee 1/2" impact. Their 3/8" electric ratchet broke too fast on me twice.


Last edited by ZVOLV; 07-19-2019 at 12:13 PM..
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:48 PM   #14
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I haven't turned a bolt by hand in a while. I use electric tools mainly. In this case I would be using my 1/2" air gun. I have heard good reviews about the Milwaukee 1/2" impact. Their 3/8" electric ratchet broke too fast on me twice.

Was it a fuel model? Iíve used their 1/4 driver, and their 3/8 & 1/2 impact wrenches. All fuel, all are badass. Also used their ratchets. Canít go wrong. Iíd put money down that the 1/2" fuel is stronger than your air impact
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