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Old 02-15-2020, 12:54 PM   #1
volvoboy90
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Default T5 World Class Z Sqeak in Neutral?

Hey everyone, so this is my 89 244 lh2.4 b230f+t with jegz t5wcz yoshifab adapter stuffs yadda yadda cable clutch. I've had this for a fair amount of time, and have gotten used to the grinding 4th above 50mph but now am noticing a squeaking that seems to be speed dependant not engine speed dependant whenever just coasting in neutral, clutch in or out. I've really not much experience with manuals so I'm just looking for some explanations on what this might be.
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Old 02-15-2020, 01:25 PM   #2
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoGxWPt-5Gc&t=64s

Buy it. Also put some bronze slider pads in. Shim the front bearing as well, they are always way off from the factory (or worse after a poor rebuild).

The only special thing you need to rebuild is a medium size press.

Catch up on all Paul's videos as he is the master of T5 rebuilds.

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Old 02-15-2020, 02:21 PM   #3
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Being I bought this new from jegz I had really hoped to not have to drop this and crack it open so soon. Don't mean to sound "that way" but hell. $5k was a lot to put in for this swap a year ago. And now to be turbobricks about this, how long can it be babied in this condition? I can't be caught with a tool in my hand where I live.
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Old 02-15-2020, 04:24 PM   #4
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Wow! Yeah, any warranty on it then since you bought it new recently?

I was assuming a used T5 that just may need some love. But new it should be good for 200k+!
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Old 02-15-2020, 05:29 PM   #5
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Being I bought this new from jegz I had really hoped to not have to drop this and crack it open so soon. Don't mean to sound "that way" but hell. $5k was a lot to put in for this swap a year ago. And now to be turbobricks about this, how long can it be babied in this condition? I can't be caught with a tool in my hand where I live.
You got deep pockets!
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Old 02-15-2020, 11:39 PM   #6
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From a quick look on jegs, they only will allow you to make a return within 90 days of the purchase. It wasn't installed that quickly, and there isn't a manufacturer's warranty it would seem. As far as deep pockets, it was a go for broke ordeal, I had gone through about 4 automatics and I was sick of it. I honestly figured this would last a LOT longer than a year. I haven't been torturing it. My tires are pretty ****ty, my engine is just a b230f+t with a 16t and a T cam. I wouldn't sit doing burn outs or anything stupid like that. Just really wondering what the hell happened here.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:29 AM   #7
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You sure the squeak isn't something like, say, the support bearing?

Jordan
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:32 AM   #8
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I would contact Hanlon Motorsports, the owner Bob is a Tremec guru. I wouldn't put up with grinding gears or weird squeaks at that price point.
I'm not sure how a T5 conversion could cost that much, my TKO600 (modified with carbon fiber synchros and some other stuff) with bellhousing, entire clutch setup, hydraulic throw out bearing and master cylinder, etc, was under $5K.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:39 AM   #9
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It was an auto to manual conversion, so the transmission was 2k driveshaft, all the manual bits, yoshifab was about another 2k and then install. I mean I've been very pleasantly happy with it, and when I first heard it it sounded like the blower motor squeaking, but I realized I didn't have the fan on and it only happened in neutral.
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Old 02-16-2020, 01:25 AM   #10
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You sure the squeak isn't something like, say, the support bearing?

Jordan
I'm honestly not sure, that's why I've posted onto here because I'm not sure what would be the cause.

Edit: Unless you mean the driveshaft carrier bearing because that's gone. The driveshaft is a one piece all aluminum driveshaft.

Last edited by volvoboy90; 02-16-2020 at 01:56 AM..
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Old 02-16-2020, 02:26 AM   #11
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I'm honestly not sure, that's why I've posted onto here because I'm not sure what would be the cause.

Edit: Unless you mean the driveshaft carrier bearing because that's gone. The driveshaft is a one piece all aluminum driveshaft.
That is what I was thinking. Count that out.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:03 PM   #12
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I would contact Hanlon Motorsports, the owner Bob is a Tremec guru. I wouldn't put up with grinding gears or weird squeaks at that price point.
I'm not sure how a T5 conversion could cost that much, my TKO600 (modified with carbon fiber synchros and some other stuff) with bellhousing, entire clutch setup, hydraulic throw out bearing and master cylinder, etc, was under $5K.

It sounds like he was paying for labor. Which is fine. Not everyone has the time, desire, or aptitude to tackle projects like this.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:30 PM   #13
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The grinding going into 4th and squeaking could be from the input shaft and main shaft being shimmed too tight when the input retainer was swapped, since the DeeWorks adapter requires that. I’d almost put money on it...

The t5z uses a significantly different support bearing than a standard t5. it can take a bit more load than the standard setup.

Not sure what you’re using for oil, but Redline D4 or Pennzoil Synchromesh work very well. I’m sure Amsoil has a few good products as well.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:52 PM   #14
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I'm really hoping this isn't something severe, or life-threatening to the transmission. I'm looking at buying a house soon and being able to wrench on my own cars again will be a huge weight off my shoulders. I was wanting to check the oil level since I know the slip-yoke for the driveshaft isn't great at holding in fluid.
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Old 02-16-2020, 01:47 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by volvoboy90 View Post
I'm really hoping this isn't something severe, or life-threatening to the transmission. I'm looking at buying a house soon and being able to wrench on my own cars again will be a huge weight off my shoulders. I was wanting to check the oil level since I know the slip-yoke for the driveshaft isn't great at holding in fluid.
If the issue is just that the main shaft preload is too high, then you might roast the pocket bearing. It’s like $8 for a cup and cone bearing.

With regard to the tail shaft leak: The slip yokes come in a range of diameters due to tolerances, same with the tail shaft housing and bushing. Some t5s are loose, some interference with a new yoke or tail shaft bushing. You might be able to go to a driveline shop and find a yoke that’s a few thou bigger in diameter.
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Old 02-16-2020, 07:31 PM   #16
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I Just tore into mine and it was pretty easy. I found my input shaft preload was high and the counter shaft was loose. I replaced the counter shaft bearing retainer with one of those ones that is linked earlier in the thread. I had about a 2 in lb preload on the counter shaft.

I was finally able to take the car for a rip yesterday and nothing has changed in regards to the “features” that seem to be inherent with this set up.

Mine was new as well but I have a hook up at Tremec so mine didn’t cost $2k.

Paul’s peelable shims makes setting up shaft preload pretty easy.
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:35 PM   #17
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I Just tore into mine and it was pretty easy. I found my input shaft preload was high and the counter shaft was loose. I replaced the counter shaft bearing retainer with one of those ones that is linked earlier in the thread. I had about a 2 in lb preload on the counter shaft.

I was finally able to take the car for a rip yesterday and nothing has changed in regards to the “features” that seem to be inherent with this set up.

Mine was new as well but I have a hook up at Tremec so mine didn’t cost $2k.

Paul’s peelable shims makes setting up shaft preload pretty easy.
It's nice to know they aren't that complicated, I presume by features you're talking about that wonderful grind noise that occurs is 4th above 50mph. Here's hoping it holds together for a couple of months. My daily is down for a bad alternator and now this has cropped up, it's just bad timing.
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:41 PM   #18
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It's nice to know they aren't that complicated, I presume by features you're talking about that wonderful grind noise that occurs is 4th above 50mph. Here's hoping it holds together for a couple of months. My daily is down for a bad alternator and now this has cropped up, it's just bad timing.
I don’t have any grinding noises just the usual coast down drown that shuts off like a switch at 2700 RPM.

Does it grind when you shift into reverse? I forget if the ford spec trans has a reverse synchronizer but if it doesn’t have the reverse synchronizer and it grinds going into reverse your clutch may need to be adjusted.
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Old 02-17-2020, 12:00 AM   #19
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It doesn't grind into reverse, but every now and again if I don't wait a sec end it will ring like a bell. The sound I'm talking about might be considered a drone but it sounds really deep, but there's videos of it on YouTube, of volvos with this swap and the same sound at the same interval.
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:06 AM   #20
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Copied from my previous thread about that 4th gear noise, this is what I'm talking about.
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These type noises?
AFAIK...many have the same issues. Tfrasca bought a new T5Z and it made the noise.

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Old 02-17-2020, 01:10 AM   #21
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So that little grinding noise going into 4th is what you are experiencing?

I have the coast down noise with the same characteristics but in all gears not just 4th
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:31 AM   #22
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Yeah, it's not going into 4th when it occurs, but when above 50mph and off throttle in 4th gear only.
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