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Old 07-14-2009, 02:50 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
gaspedal assembly hitting a hanging part of the wiring loom ?

is he using the correct wattage bulbs in the brakelights?
my 940 has a 3rd brakelight and i have installed an additional brakelight in the spoiler. I hooked it up to one of the existing brakelights and now every time i brake the yellow bulb failure light comes on. in other words: the error light is sensitive to how many and what kind of bukbs you install.
i have the same setup: third brake light + a honda prelude spoiler with a diode brake light.
I sometimes get these "bulb out" warnings for a few pushes of the brake pedal once in a while.

(2004 XC90 2.5T -- 19X kmiles)
(2003 V70 2.4i at -- 19X kmiles)
(2001 V70 T5M -- 17X kmiles)


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Old 07-24-2009, 02:23 PM   #27
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The bulb-failure warning device works on the resistance in the circuit, lighting the warning bulb when the preset resistance is not met or exceeded.
You could try using a small relay to switch the extra brake light bulb, taking power from a separate fused circuit.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:29 AM   #28
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Kinda trivial, but my 91 940 and my 91 740 both had that style IC. Might wanna change the title?
91 944T - Gone, 93 244+t and CR-V

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Old 09-07-2009, 02:37 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by MistrThou View Post
Kinda trivial, but my 91 940 and my 91 740 both had that style IC. Might wanna change the title?
same here, 91 740t, and the 89 760t hm....
Originally Posted by CrazyChopStick View Post
I bought an 850.

Last edited by SwedishBee; 09-14-2009 at 09:53 AM..
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Old 11-21-2009, 10:09 PM   #30
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Dude, YOU ARE MY HERO! I posted about my SRS light about 2 or so weeks ago...this just may be the problem...and it's so helpful that you posted this. I am going to tear into it soon and see if that's what's been puzzling me! Thanks again!
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:30 PM   #31
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pics in first post are down - can you re-host?
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:59 PM   #32
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the article is site hosted on the front page of TB.


1989 Volvo 744T- 16v turbo, '94 FD-block, RSI pistons/rods, GT35R, Tial 38mm, RFL, MSnS-E, DSM spark, 100lb Delphis, 4.6 springs, Bondo header, Heebspeed intake, Q45 90mm TB, Bosch 044 FP, 12x24x3 ebayIC, w/c t5, Clutchnet 4puck/PP, 4.10 G80, IPD sways, 960 brakes.
1998 Volvo S70 T5m- Stock, 229k
1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ- Stock, 154k
1983 Ford F150- '89 5.0 H.O, C6/4x4, F+R LSD 4.10, 7" lift, 35s.
1990 Cobia San Marino 225 ECS- MCM 350 Mag, GM Bowtie Intake, HR-Titan 19p.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:01 AM   #33
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Location: Roller coaster road SW of PDX OR

grumble........... tightened things on my cluster and had a possible positive result but the srs light stayed on which it had been doing before since my issue went full scale. drove it for about .5 miles and the cluster stopped working except the temp gauge when the OD light was light (only light that was on). swapped to another cluster and all seems normal but srs light staying on again. any input is greatly needed.....
2003 Honda CBR600RR (holy damn) The DD
1991 745 TIC IPD springs Boge yellows in the rear Bils soon on the front, IPD 25mm sways, boost controller and gauge, lots of goodies to come
pre accident glory
1972 164E accident with ford fucus
(not 56k friendly)
83 242TIC setting up for drift/track
1979 242 b cam intake 2.5in exhaust gets up and moves SOLD and gone.

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Old 10-22-2010, 10:31 AM   #34
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Could this article also apply to an '86 760ti? Mine's got the fuel gauge problem intermittently, and some times I can thump it with my finger and it will work.
When you're a tired old gimp²,
you get easy to please.

'03 C70 HPT drop top 95k (stylin cruiser)
'83 242 turbo, 305k (ridge runner)
'84 245 NA, 248k (hauler/tractor)
'66 New Yorker, 440 4bbl (needs a new home)
'84 244tic (project or parts? definitely parts)
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:31 PM   #35
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Yes, all the flexible printed circuit boards have problems with cracked solder joints.
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:54 PM   #36
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I've looked at this thread for years and I've never really taken the time to actually DO IT.

'91 745T, the daily
My speedo/odometer doesn't work at all, anymore. And more ridiculously my fuel gauge is stuck @ 1/3 of tank. Well, I'm tired of not having working gauges for OVER 2 YEARS now, so something needs to happen.

A couple of buddies are coming up to my house thursday night before Carlisle, one of which is a decent solderer...
If it doesnt work I don't care I have no more options.

About the speedo...I've tried 3 different sensors, none of which do anything different. The ENTIRE wiring harness from the sensor all the way into the side rear cargo cubbies, no splices. entire harness replaced. nothing.
Fall of 2008 I lost the function of the speedo/odometer....
It would be working normally then it would drop to 0 and then back up to speed. It did this several times before coming to a hault and never working again. I'm think this re-solder thingy is going to work.
But I've tried other clusters but no worky. hrrmm....

As for the fuel gauge it just went to 1/3 tank and that was it. It always worked fine and then it didn't. Simple as that.
However, the fuel warning light still works. heh

Oh well, I'll let you know how it goes when I see you at Carlisle.

By the way though, GREAT WRITEUP. EXCELLENT!
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
400 klubb!!!
For Life.

Last edited by gear whine; 05-12-2011 at 11:02 PM..
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Old 09-13-2015, 12:05 PM   #37
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Location: Cypress, TX

If you scroll down to the bottom of the page on the link below it explains how to swap the 93-94 940/740 cluster into the 91-92 with minimal modifications.
I suck at soldering & I was able to get it to work.

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Old 10-07-2015, 05:37 AM   #38
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Gonna chime in with an addition to this. If you've got a 7/9xx, and typically bad control arm bushings (the big ones)on the rear end, the speed sensor in the diff cover can make contact with the Panhard rod. This'll eventually damage the wiring, plug or maybe even the sensor. It MIGHT even blow that fusible link in the cluster, though I haven't verified that. Mine had frayed wires on the sensor plug and a blown link.
My feedback:http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=thelocalspoke

Current Volvo:"Green Party:" 93 945T@195K/250K; AW71/cooler;ported 15g@16psi;Big NPR IC;all v-band/3" stainless DP, taper to 2.5 OBX;RSI S1 T cam (BUT IPD DOWEL!!);MTX-L AFR; TLAO fuel/ezk chips;Bosch green giants; 012 MAF;960 lower ties;IPD lower brace+sways; stock springs -1 coil; Bilstein Touring shocks (they suck);Hydras;new stock brakes.>For later: 2 squirter B230s, turbo and not; extra AW71.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:57 AM   #39
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Default 1992 Gauge cluster Complete unit question or trade ?

Will a 1992 940 non -turbo gauge cluster ,fit in my 1994 non-turbo 940? I have read a little on the clock/fuel gauge mods ...however

This car displays an odd characteristic , The SRS light will stay on , and in short order drain the electrical system ...However ,this is the strange part , If I strike the top of the dash, often times fairly hard ,it will go out ,and you can hear the electrical system i.e. alternator kicks from discharge mode to charge mode .I discovered this by driving with the light on ,and then hitting a bump!This has driven me nuts for a long time , I know there is alot of potential for SRS light errors , but for the life of me I think its in the cluster , and the cluster needs replacing , Therefore as my original question pondered , will the early cluster work ,and/or does anyone have a friend of a friend who has a 94 gauge cluster to swap ? I know this is an old thread but would GREATLY appreciate my fellow Volvo fanatixz input Thanxz Sincerely Ben
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