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Stranded In Parking Lot

I always try to pull data before and after a repair instead of just throwing parts

I had a 96 Ford Explorer in the shop with an EGR code recently. Software pointed at the DPFE sensor as the likely cause. Voltage was only going to 2.5v with EGR flowing. Spec was 3.5. Installed a new one and tested it again and got 3.50v! I could confidently ship the car knowing we can charge him and not get an angry comeback.

I had a 2002 Toyota Echo in front of me with a p0420 cat efficiency code. I used the scan tool, wish I used the scope; faster data, to graph both the front and rear o2 sensor. The rear sesnor was oscillating WITH the front sensor=bad cat. Once the new cat is on I will repeat my tests to verify the repair.

On obd 2 cars I can look at ECT sensor data. I found one last summer reporting Temps as if we were in a Siberian winter.

TBRICKERS love to throw out part suggestions but really you need to get off the phone and do tests before and after.

Learn to do tests with the proper tools!!!
 
cleanflametrap said:
You're right. Especially for a T-bricker who isn't intimate with a multimeter. Part swaps are quick.

But I say the effort is worthwhile because, although the replacement "fixed" the trouble, often times the part itself wasn't bad, but oxidation, corrosion, moisture, crud made connection to it unreliable. Think of all the things you've "fixed" by wiggling a plug, or pulling a connector and reseating it.
Click to expand...

Worse yet is to pull out a good sensor that was suspected to be defective and put a defective one back in its place. The quality on "new" sensors is dismal compared to when these cars were built, IMO. I know several people on the board that had new sensors fail in less than a year. They were Bosch, not generic replacements. Anyway, I'm glad changing the sensor worked for you. I hope you hung on to the "bad" one just in case.
 
Lol you guys better be right about this. I just found where the ect sensor is and ohhh mai gawwwd , it is in a tight spot. I cant even pull the connector off because the idle air controller is blocking.

Update tho: turns out my CBV cover with three bolts on the turbo was slightly loose at out by a eighth of an inch. Feels a lot better now when boosting but still running below 10s, so I'm guessing I have some other leaks. Air was probably leaking out.

Also got a heat shield to prevent hot air from circulating back into intake. I used sheet metal. Despite that intake manifold and intake pipe out of intercooler is hot as hell tho :(. Normal? Pictures will come Thursday or so.

Still hard to start after letting it heat soak for 15 min. If I start it right away after I turn it off it starts fine. But yeah, let it sit and it's a goner. I am praying it's the ecu sensor, sprayed crap ton of electric cleaner on power stage and amplifier.

Working on boost leak tester(hard to find right size pvc cap) and ect sensor.


Wait wouldmt it be easier if I just test switching back to smaller injectors? If it starts after heat soak in that case then it would be a different reason than the ect right?
 
Update

Okay Guys. I was right. Well partially. Im not sure what this means. I put back in the stock injectors and the car runs like "ah SOOOOOO GEWD!!!" 10.1->10.8 at WOT(dropped boost from 16->13). It drives completely different with the 5omotorsports stock flowing injectors. Less lean when off throttle, Idles better, drives better, Everything! Even faster at lower boost because AFRs are better. 10.3 instead of >10. It even starts immediately, no more hot start problems so far! Literally can only get one crank in before it catches and engine runs. Can anyone explain this phenomenon and have any suggestions? I want to run higher boost(18-20 lbs) but these stock injectors don't flow enough, however when i switch to 550cc injectors it bogs down >10 AFRs @ WOT and is hard as heck to start when hot. Do you think the same brand injectors @ 440CC would work better? I spent like 259.99$+shipping for these current ones and don't want them to go to waste. You think i should sell them?

I kept in the 3 inch maf as it is working like normal maf with the stock injectors. I even unplugged the battery and let the ECU reset for going back to stock injectors, and can drive at WOT without letting it learn at all hahahahah.

And of course the days where i would get check engine light are lonnnnng gone. I put like 200 miles on my car(1.25 weeks worth of driving) and no check engine light.

Im thinking these injectors, same brand same model but smaller flow: http://www.deatschwerks.com/product...ng-60mm-ev14-4-cylinders/18u-00-0042-4-detail

It will suck a bunch if i have the same symptoms though. Wow even when cold it idles 13~->14.7 This is much better than with the 550cc injectors.
 
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3.8 Bar (55 psi) fuel pressure regulator for 1988 Chrysler Lebaron Turbo. 27% increase. Increases 300 cc/min injector to 338 cc/min.

Bosch 0 280 160 260
 
Last edited:
lummert said:
3.8 Bar (55 psi) fuel pressure regulator for 1988 Chrysler Lebaron Turbo. 27% increase. Increases 300 cc/min injector to 338 cc/min.

Bosch 0 280 160 260
Click to expand...

You think it can handle the 18-20 lb boost range? Would it not be better to get slightly bigger injectors? But man the ecu must really love these stock injectors. I might just get a heftier fpr from that car.... any other suggestions/options?

And I think you recommended me this before on that rich bogging thread.

Nobody wants to explain why the car doesn't start with heatsoak on 550cc injectors? It literally starts in like one crank with stock injectors hahah(pretty cool imo).

So this basically means there is nothing wrong with the ect right?
 
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PromiseRing said:
I think 18-20psi is quite a bit of boost for stock lh2.4. It may adapt but there's more to not pinging than just AFRs.
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Good point there's compression, temperature of intake/ambient air, and timing right? Well the 550cc injectors will definitely get me to my goal but running too rich and won't start so that is out of the window..
 
I'm at 19psi, chipped 2.4, 50/50 E85 and 91, no issues at all.

But I have the supporting mods...pump, injectors, chips, AMM, exhaust, cam, etc.

Stock chips and the 012 should run WAY lean, or at least not happily in boost. There's more than just airflow changes when you swap to the 3", it also skews the timing tables in the EZK, plus a couple other little details that I don't feel like explaining right now (brain overload at work).

Something is strange in your setup, not sure what.
 
gsellstr said:
I'm at 19psi, chipped 2.4, 50/50 E85 and 91, no issues at all.

But I have the supporting mods...pump, injectors, chips, AMM, exhaust, cam, etc.
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Yeah i have lots of support literally the final piece of the puzzle for performance is injectors for me. Cant be going 18psi with these stock injectors without pinging probably. Even with the heftier fpr. How about this, ill bump the thread after i do the boost leak test. Theres gotta be a massive leak that is not obvious.
 
Update: doing the boost leak test atm. Massive psssh leak at the cbv plate. I either need to block it off, add a bov, use gasket sealer to try to stop leak, or buy a new cbv. Then there is a leak towards the transmission bellhousing area or engine block. I dont think it will be a good idea to run stock injectors now after fixing the leak as i will go lean as hell now with the 3 inch Maf.

Lol i mustve been losing metered air and running at decent afrs based on coincidence. Now that im nnot losing metered air, it will probably jump to 12-13-14. Car might even idle better too.

Will probably need to back down the boost since turbo mustve been working extra hard to get that 12-14 lbs of boost. It might even be 17 lbs now?


Good news is that there is no noticeable leak at manifold or intercooler tubing. Lots of air coming from oil fill cap and oil dipstick tube. Not sure to block it off or leave itcracked.
 
Block off what or leave it cracked?

I think the reason you're hearing it at the oil filler cap and dipstick tube is because of the PCV system. There's the little vacuum line that runs to the PCV "Y" piece. That little line will allow positive pressure to pass into the crankcase when testing for boost leaks I'm pretty sure.
 
PromiseRing said:
Block off what or leave it cracked?

I think the reason you're hearing it at the oil filler cap and dipstick tube is because of the PCV system. There's the little vacuum line that runs to the PCV "Y" piece. That little line will allow positive pressure to pass into the crankcase when testing for boost leaks I'm pretty sure.
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Well when people run bov they need a block off plate that you can make or buy from ipd that blocks off the cbv opening area. So if im leaking there then yeah ill need to block it off.

I know yeah thats the pcv system but im afraid of pressuring the crankcase with compressed air and blowing some sort of seals in the engine. Just was wondering if it was safe to do so or not? Its really hard to hear for leaks since air is leaving the oil dipstick and fill cap.


And yeah just fixed the leak(1) and took for drive. Its still rich :(, definitely have more power with stock injectors. Not sure if i should allow for readjustments because of how it doesnt start when warm. Sometimes tho if i can time it right it starts right up lol.
 
PromiseRing said:
Block off what or leave it cracked?

I think the reason you're hearing it at the oil filler cap and dipstick tube is because of the PCV system. There's the little vacuum line that runs to the PCV "Y" piece. That little line will allow positive pressure to pass into the crankcase when testing for boost leaks I'm pretty sure.
Click to expand...

Well when people run bov they need a block off plate that you can make or buy from ipd that blocks off the cbv opening area. So if im leaking there then yeah ill need to block it off.

I know yeah thats the pcv system but im afraid of pressuring the crankcase with compressed air and blowing some sort of seals in the engine. Just was wondering if it was safe to do so or not? Its really hard to hear for leaks since air is leaving the oil dipstick and fill cap.


And yeah just fixed the leaks and took for drive. Its still rich :(, definitely have more power with stock injectors. Not sure if i should allow for readjustments because of how it doesnt start when warm. Sometimes tho if i can time it right it starts right up lol.

Like its strange, if i crank it too long it wont catch but if i crank 2 cranks, then crank really fast and let go it will start instantly.... anyways im lost. Very strange modded car.
 
Fumomike said:
Wow Power stage is ridiculously expensive. Not a part i can just randomly switch it. better test for spark first.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ignition-control-module-3501921oe
Click to expand...

I just bought one from pelican parts for HUGO $32.00.http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=ignition+control+module If you click on the review, the original part number says it is compatible with the bosch 0 227 100 124 module. The nice thing about this part is that it comes with a new heat sink already attached! Just save the mounting screws for re-installation.

I hope this helps.
 
Fumomike said:
Well when people run bov they need a block off plate that you can make or buy from ipd that blocks off the cbv opening area. So if im leaking there then yeah ill need to block it off.

I know yeah thats the pcv system but im afraid of pressuring the crankcase with compressed air and blowing some sort of seals in the engine. Just was wondering if it was safe to do so or not? Its really hard to hear for leaks since air is leaving the oil dipstick and fill cap.


And yeah just fixed the leak(1) and took for drive. Its still rich :(, definitely have more power with stock injectors. Not sure if i should allow for readjustments because of how it doesnt start when warm. Sometimes tho if i can time it right it starts right up lol.
Click to expand...

Oh never mind you're talking about the compressor bypass valve. I thought you were talking about blocking off the PCV system lol.
 
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