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Old 10-03-2014, 06:59 PM   #1
Ursan
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Default Projector retrofit, 1994 940

So I'm doing a Morimoto Mini H1 retrofit. I went with the "defluting" route as older Volvo headlamp's are, well, square and large and I thought that lens forming would be tricky at best and overly large lamps with clear lenses wouldn't look too good.

So, I'll start with the the the tools:

Drill press:



Belt sander:


Media:

80, 120, 240 grit.
320,500,800,1500 and 3000.

The before:


The after:




The lens:
Before:


Light output:



Marking off:




This is done because the entire lens doesn't need to be "defluted".

The process is to start off with the 80 grit on a 3" rolock adapter on the drill press. It could be done with a hand drill, but the press is much easier to sand into the lens fresnels.

I used plenty of water so as not to burn into the plastic and to keep it cool as a cool pad cuts best.

After the 80 I move up to 120 and then 240 just to sand a circle.

Once all the fresnels are flattened, I switched over to 320 grit using a Griot's Garage 3" Random Orbital Polisher. Again, keeping it moist, but not wet, I slowly sand the swirl marks down. Followed by 500, 800 and 1500. Switching to the Meguire's 3000 grit sanding pad, things really change. It's almost polished:


Mind you, this is without polishing, just the Meguire's S3F3000 pads. (only one)

The output results:
(little fuzzy, sorry)


I also sanded smooth the front of the lens from 320 up to 3000. It was rather pitted so I sanded it smooth and removed the stock clear coat.

I compounded and clear coated it inside and out and:








I've done this same thing with my other Volvo that has glass lenses. Those take a WHOLE lot longer. Days actually instead of hours. I was a little nervous about getting these clear again, but the Meguires pads and the random orbital sander did the trick.

Once I clear coated it, it was virtually crystal clear.

I'll follow up in the next days and weeks with the projector mounting and completion of the lamps.
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Last edited by Ursan; 11-08-2017 at 12:20 AM..
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
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That's awesome! Looks good, and seems to function really well.
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:57 PM   #3
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the lenses are stock plastic non-fog 940/740 headlamps.


The projectors I'm using:



http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...rojectors.html
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:04 PM   #4
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Dude, that is just the best. Looks amazing. 10/10
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:11 AM   #5
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Default Bezels.

I'm making bezels to give the projector additional support.

Since the stock lamps are only made of plastic, I was uncomfortable with having the mass of the projector mounted on such a small surface area.

Also, this will help reduce or eliminate the projector bouncing inside the lamp.

They will be mounted to the backside of the projector and is screwed into the shroud.

The bezels will eventually be bonded or screwed into place within the lamp once I make the fine adjustments and correct the rotation of the projectors.

These bezels are exactly 6 1/16" (168mm) round with a bit cut out of them as shown.





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Old 10-20-2014, 11:04 PM   #6
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Completed the lamps: Getting ready for fitting. Luckily I don't need to pull the entire frame as the lamp housing pops right out.





The center bezels are just aluminum plates that I cut to match the bowl of the reflector. It's there the steady the projector and act as a heat sink. It'll be bonded to the bowl before installation (semi permanently)



Also, created a dust shield.



I used some ABS cement to bond them together. I'll need to trim another 25mm to clear the battery and air intake box once installed. No biggie.



I cut a 23mm hole into the rubber cap and pressed the Morimoto grommet through.





This should keep most dust, moisture and zombies out.

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Old 11-16-2014, 03:02 PM   #7
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Default Sanding technique.

So a few people contacted me with more specific questions about how I sanded out the aperture for the projector beam.

As I posted earlier, I used a 3M 3" "roloc" pad holders and generic roloc pads.

The roloc grits I used are from 80 through 240.

After that, I switched to Meguiars Unigrit 3" pads in grits 320,500,800,1500 and 3000.

The process is fairly simple. I taped off the outer surface of the lens as it was brand new and I wanted to protect the coating that's already on it.

Once that's done, I marked off the area where the projector's light hits the lens:



Once that's done, I'll fill the inside of the lens with small amount of water to lubricate and cool the process. Water must be changed out as it becomes contaminated. Expect up to 10 changes.

From the inside I center the 80 grit sanding disc in the circle drawn on the blue tape and start at the slowest speed my drill press can manage (900 rpm) This allows better control and keels the plastic lens cool.

HOT LENSES WILL WARP AND BUBBLE OUT ON YOU Don't forget to use clean cool water, change often as debris can be driven into the plastic surface.

You only need about 30 minutes @ 80 to define the aperture and flatten out the fresnels.

Once the surface of the aperture is flat and all or nearly all evidence of the fresnels are gone, you switch to 120 and then 240 grit to remove most of the sanding lines.

After that I switch to a 3" dual orbital polisher from Griot's Garage and used a foam interface pad from Meguiar's

This allows the pad to confirm to the surface and makes for a better sanded/polished surface.

Once I get to 320 grit, it looks something like this: (25 minutes total)



From there I work up to 500, 800 then to 1500 grit.

This is a 1500 grit pad:


Results after 8-10 minutes:

This is not polished, only sanded

Then I moved to 3000 "grit" (not really grit, more of a compound impregnated pad)

3000 grit pad"


Results:




I'll be using Opti-Lens Permanent Headlight Coating to coat the sanded/polished area to UV protect it and fill in minor imperfections.

Last edited by Ursan; 11-21-2014 at 12:29 PM..
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:07 PM   #8
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Lovely sanding work, remind me why you need to do this for your new projector lights?
Do the original facets scatter it into crazy places causing high glare?
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:39 PM   #9
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Exactly. The beam becomes inefficient and tends to scatter the light and can cause glare for oncoming people.

The projector beam patterns are there, "more or less" even without sanding, but there's no neat cutoff and the light appears diffused.
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:02 PM   #10
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Taking a winter break as my basement workshop is fraking cold.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:04 AM   #11
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This arrived yesterday:

New left headlamp.
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Old 10-09-2015, 05:53 PM   #12
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Finishing up on #2

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Old 10-11-2015, 01:27 AM   #13
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Final polishing





UV protectant.


Lens protection.








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Old 10-11-2015, 01:30 AM   #14
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Love the way you polished those out. Looks way better than trying to improvise something, but still subtle enough that it'll look stock. Literally the best of both worlds.
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Old 10-17-2015, 02:24 PM   #15
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working.

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Old 10-19-2015, 05:24 AM   #16
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Daylight pic

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Old 10-19-2015, 06:35 AM   #17
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Sweet
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:54 AM   #18
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The lighting looks great, but I wonder what can be done to make it less Johnny 5? Thinking about doing the same mod on my car.

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Old 10-19-2015, 07:50 AM   #19
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I had the same thought.. the lighting definitively improves from stock but idk maybe if you paint the inside of the lamp black maybe it could blend better just for looks. You could paint it since the projector light does not reflect in that surface as opposed to stock

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The lighting looks great, but I wonder what can be done to make it less Johnny 5? Thinking about doing the same mod on my car.

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Old 10-19-2015, 07:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by +Kardboard+ View Post
The lighting looks great, but I wonder what can be done to make it less Johnny 5? Thinking about doing the same mod on my car.
Not seeing the Johnny 5 so much. This is why I didn't completely smooth out the lenses. I wanted to try to obscure the projectors as much as I could. If one mounts projectors in the TV screens, this is what you get. My other choice is to mount Bimmer 7/5 series projectors and go with the quad round look.

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I had the same thought.. the lighting definitively improves from stock but idk maybe if you paint the inside of the lamp black maybe it could blend better just for looks. You could paint it since the projector light does not reflect in that surface as opposed to stock
I tried black, but the dark color made the projectors even more noticeable. Right now it's matte silver.
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:19 PM   #21
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So, I generally don't do indoor mods during the warmer months, and I shelved this project until I wrapped up the various things I needed to do.

But when the weather turned and the days got shorter, I remembered that I wanted more light to drive.

As as I mentioned before, USA DOT 9004 headlamps are just about the worst.

I'll trace my steps with the new headlamp I got from the now defunct lampsandlenses.com.

After separating the lens (not lense) from the reflector housing, (oven @ 180° until seal softens) I cover the outside of the lens with painters tape to both protect and to apply a card that I can use to judge my progress:





I can use the taped up lens to judge where I need to mark off where the removal of material needs to take place. Some people like to flatten out the entire lens, but I prefer to only do what's needed. In my case, a 3" circle directly in front of the projector aperture.



Doing this, I can mark off a 3" round.



Using PLENTY OF WATER and my drill press, I use a 3" "Roloc" style 50 grit sanding disc, just for aggressive removal of the Fresnel lines.





I then move up to 80 grit.




Progress:




Basically it's a matter of "sand and rinse" several times until the area is completely flay. Swirl marks are to be expected as long as they aren't too deep.

CLEAN the disc so that material can't clog it and cut marks into the acrylic.

Eventually working up to 240 grit:



And to 320:


With a padded sanding block:


After that, I move to a Griot's Garage 3" D/A.



And move through 320 to 1500 grit.





With each progression, the sanding takes longer and longer. Water is still needed, but with the D/A, the swirl marks are gone.

(1500 grit, D/A)


Then to 3000 grit.




Once @ 3000 grit, I'm nearly there. I need to polish. So I used Meguiar's D30016 DA Microfiber Correction Compound and my D/A with a microfiber pad.




Thus:



To protect the back side of the lenses from UV, I treated with Opti-Lens Permanent Headlight Coating



And Bob's your uncle:








I know that the output of one of the projectors isn't so good. The cutoff seems to disappear. I don't know what's causing it so at some point I'll need to take it apart again and see what's what. I'm thinking that there might be something on the reflector or stuck inside the projector's lens. One of these I bought from TRS gave me trouble from the start. Stripped screw hole, etc etc. TRS was kind enough to send out a replacement reflector bowl, but I don't remember if I replaced it or not. For all I know the HID bulb is out of alignment. So I won't know until I get in there.

I also know that the output angle isn't as good as most people typically get. I think I'm @ 130° or so. I chalk this up to the recessed nature of the projectors. they sit back about 1.5 inches from the stock lens surface. If I brought them forward a bit, I think I could get a better angle. HOWEVER, these are already wider than the stock lenses so I'm really not worried.

Some people have asked my why I didn't clear out the entire lens and only did a 3" section.

There's a few reasons.

First, time. Just doing this one spot is about 1.5 hours. I really didn't want to spend an entire day on this.

Second, The Volvo has what we in the old Volvo community calls "TV set head lamps" I don't think a small projector in the middle of such a large opening would look all that good. I know of people who have incorporated BMW 5/7 series round projectors into these, but I didn't want to go that route. I figured, if all I need is a 3" aperture then that's all I'd give it.

Lastly, I wanted the lamps to be as inconspicuous as possible. This is why I went with 4300° lamps and not the more common 5000 or 6000°. I know that people aren't getting pulled over by the local constabulary, but I'd rather not take the risk. I did this to increase the level of light that my car has but not to "show off" to other people.

I've been running these for about 2 weeks now, and so far I've had ZERO flashes from oncoming drivers, no attention from the rozzers and nothing but good output from them as compared to my stock lamps.
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by +Kardboard+ View Post
The lighting looks great, but I wonder what can be done to make it less Johnny 5? Thinking about doing the same mod on my car.
I've heard the 760/940SE/960 integrated fogs make it look less paranoid android and more like a possibly stock option...

A+ work on the defluting! Looks like it's putting down tonnes of light, must be a pleasure at night!
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:09 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkKratoz View Post
I've heard the 760/940SE/960 integrated fogs make it look less paranoid android and more like a possibly stock option...
Well, there's really no way around it with these cars. It's even worse with the 240.

There's way to incorporate a BMW 5/7 series quad round projectors in there, but I think that's a little over the top and it makes your car look just like a Bimmer at night.

I'm also looking into incorporating a single round 9" into the stock reflector, but I'm still pondering.

Quote:
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A+ work on the defluting! Looks like it's putting down tonnes of light, must be a pleasure at night!
You have no idea. It's over and above better than the ECE lamps I've used.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:12 PM   #24
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What I really want to do to mine would be trying to stuff this into the housing:





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Old 10-30-2015, 03:11 PM   #25
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This a cool idea. Love the Short Circuit "facelift"
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