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Old 08-13-2018, 01:51 PM   #2076
LC4CARL
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Life begins at 10PSI.
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:09 PM   #2077
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I ordered a 3" mandrel U bend and a 90, cut them to length and welded them up for my DP

Easy Peasy



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Old 08-13-2018, 06:21 PM   #2078
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Looks great.
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:00 PM   #2079
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Thanks Ken!


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Old 08-17-2018, 08:08 PM   #2080
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Making the exhaust really isn't very hard, you don't need a good welder as long as you have a can of paint. Used a mandrel bending solutions kit for my whole exhaust. Also KLRacing has full turbo exhaust kits I think.
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:58 PM   #2081
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Cant wait to see this thing boosting!
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:46 PM   #2082
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Thx boss. Just got back from a week in AZ. Nice vacation, got to catch up with a bunch of old friends and family.

Passed the AIC 41 (insurance) exam the day before we left. Three down, one to go for my AIC designation.

Eldest is doing well with his early career. Youngest starts her junior year at PSU in a few weeks.
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:50 PM   #2083
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My car would be twice as cool with one of these.


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Old 09-01-2018, 12:56 AM   #2084
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Years from now I’ll look back and think: “Yeah, totally worth it.”


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Old 09-01-2018, 12:59 AM   #2085
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Looks good but aren't the bolts that hold on the heat shield on supposed to be stainless?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-01-2018, 01:01 AM   #2086
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Where did you acquire the pipe from? Id like to make something similar.
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:56 AM   #2087
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Looks good but aren't the bolts that hold on the heat shield on supposed to be stainless?
Hmm. Probably a great idea.
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:57 AM   #2088
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Where did you acquire the pipe from? Id like to make something similar.

I'm in the "get it running" stage right now and going with the OE waste gate and down pipe. Later I'll do the aftermarket gate and 3" down pipe.
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Old 09-01-2018, 02:32 PM   #2089
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Years from now I’ll look back and think: “Yeah, totally worth it.”


You went through all that work and didn't paint your valve cover?
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:39 PM   #2090
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You went through all that work and didn't paint your valve cover?
i wouldn't have bothered painting mine. that's why i was so readily willing to let you paint it.
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:04 PM   #2091
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Ignition question.

740 turbo box under dash. Early '80's breakerless distributor in the B21FT.

Been reading this:

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=334753

Pulled the Mopar box and wire loom. Installed the coil and amplifier on the apron.



Two "looms" come out of the amplifier. One goes to the distributor. Where does the other go? There are three wires: black and blue are bundled together, then a white that connects to a red is separate. Black has an eyelet like a ground. I also have a resistor.

Thx.

Last edited by LC4CARL; 09-08-2018 at 11:24 PM..
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:32 PM   #2092
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Got a few ideas about the ignition. Should be able to sort it out. Got a timing cover with the ignition scale, not sawn off, on the way.





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Old 09-12-2018, 04:36 PM   #2093
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Catch can:

I want to route it to the flame trap and to the intake side of the turbo. The flame trap is a typical PCV sized line. The catch can has 1" ID lines. Does this look like a viable solution? I can only assume that the catch can will function at it's best with the big lines. But I have no other ideas how to connect it to my motor. Where does the nipple on the bottom go? This thing is HUGE.



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Old 09-12-2018, 04:39 PM   #2094
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Needed to get a sense of progress so I threw the support together. Thanks again for the sweet headlights RW.


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Old 09-12-2018, 04:46 PM   #2095
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"What's taking so long?"

Well, let me tell you. On a typical week I can sneak in about four hours of garage time. Then there is my learning curve. For example: do not wait to install the turbo oil drain-tube. Put it on with the turbo assembly. I cannot tell you how many items I have put together and said: "well, that's done." Only to have to tear it apart to do some related operation. But now I know. Maybe this is what we call wisdom. Next time I do this, it will only take six months, instead of a full year.




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Old 09-12-2018, 05:00 PM   #2096
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#mclovethesenuts

-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 190k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Duracool AC w/condenser fan, purple refinished Virgos, tow hitch, ipd wagon overload springs.
-PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: 120k miles, Perrin TBE, Perrin turbo inlet, intake, and Y-pipe, GrimmSpeed cross pipe.
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:36 PM   #2097
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This car is going to be sooo fast!

How's the move?

Any chance you'll get sent back east for the storm?
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:41 PM   #2098
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Excited to see it in person once it's done(or to help detail her out). The move is complete, just box break-out. No clue on the storm, they're still considering sending me back out for fires. LOL
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:58 PM   #2099
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Man, I can't wait until you realize that you really need the extra power of a B234FT with a Holset backed by a T5.

I really love this thread. I wish I was this thorough with my own projects.
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Kilt man will be along soon with a nice dissertation regarding the specifics of the 240 model nuances.
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Chair man, I'm pretty sure that's a Devoid of Luxury. Not a GL.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:16 PM   #2100
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Carl did you get the ignition wiring sorted? I just did this (twice) about a month ago,

The blue wire with the plastic shielding is for switched power. The blue wire with the bare connector goes on the single end of the ballast resistor. The brown wire with plastic goes to coil positive, the other brown wire goes to the double end of the BR, you run a wire from the end of the br to the open spade on the starter, can't remember which one, and the white wire goes coil negative. You also need to run a wire from the coil negative to the spade underneath the intake, not the one with the double orange wires, but the single grey? wire.


This is the stock mounting location for an 1983 na. The blue wire with nothing going into it is switched power, the underside of that is a shielded white for tach, and the brown connects to the MOPAR ignition box on one end, and coil positive on the other.

Did you get a turbo k-jet dizzy? The advance/retard is built into the distributor for breakerless, and for it not to ping like crazy you need the right dizzy. Ask me how I know.
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