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Old 06-06-2019, 01:34 PM   #26
GeneralBurrito
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Ok, I suppose that explains the 724ppm limit for NOx at 25mph then. My reference is early '80s cars which have slightly higher limits. There's no way of looking this up at all, other than comparing notes with other people's test reports.

For an 1983 240 DL w/ manual, here's an illustration of how NOx changed over time (well, up until late 2014 anyway when I made the graph).

I looked over your great write up. So far on the to do list is oil change, set the timing to 10 or 11, plug the diaphragm vacuum line to the ignition box, and drive around town for 20 minutes before getting to the shop and leave the car running in the lot.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:40 PM   #27
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That SHOULD get you thru. Post back.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:54 PM   #28
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Alright I'll do a few of the things today and over the weekend, hope to do the test Monday
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:46 PM   #29
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you should convert to EZK, then you'd have the cleanest running 240 in the world!!!
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:50 PM   #30
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you should convert to EZK, then you'd have the cleanest running 240 in the world!!!
Wait, how do I find what type of ignition I have?
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:35 PM   #31
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Ok, I suppose that explains the 724ppm limit for NOx at 25mph then. My reference is early '80s cars which have slightly higher limits. There's no way of looking this up at all, other than comparing notes with other people's test reports.

For an 1983 240 DL w/ manual, here's an illustration of how NOx changed over time (well, up until late 2014 anyway when I made the graph).

They lowered the numbers twice. Supposedly they cant anymore but in commifornia they do whatever they want here crazy bastards.

The cut points are visible in an old smog book or books they have, forget the names of them but they are in there. Also the cut points or limits are on the BAR site or they were a few years ago. FYI stick cars have higher cut points than auto cars though iirc.

here are your cut points
https://www.autorepair.ca.gov/pubweb...VLTROWID=19734

Cutpoints main page
https://www.autorepair.ca.gov/pubweb.../showmake.aspx

Like I said plug the advance and what others here told you to do. You should have a black box over on your passenger federwell for the Chrysler ignition set up. That hose will go to your intake manifold.
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:36 PM   #32
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I recall that post by Philski also. I would go with that.

High octane fuel helps too. I don't know how much Ethanol to recommend, but I would maybe try almost half of the fuel in the tank as E85.

So half n half e85 won't hurt the Cat, or maybe just a trick to pass Smog ?
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:39 PM   #33
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:01 PM   #34
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generally you never add e85 if your close... you go for the Techron and 108 octane
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:03 PM   #35
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Wait, how do I find what type of ignition I have?
sorry but it's 2.2 Chrysler
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Old 06-07-2019, 12:55 AM   #36
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So is plugging the diaphragm on the black box a temporary thing only for smog?
And should I retard timing to 10 or keep it safe at 11?
And plus, I thought I had advanced timing just a bit by turning my distributor to the left. How did I end up with 6 degrees according to the smog test?

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 06-07-2019 at 01:18 AM..
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:42 AM   #37
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Timing has to be in spec. But retard it as much as you can like i said.
They check static timing.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:02 AM   #38
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Timing has to be in spec. But retard it as much as you can like i said.
They check static timing.
It's 12 +/- 2
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:35 AM   #39
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It's 12 +/- 2
Set the static timing at 10 degrees or as close as you can get using a timing light and rotating the distributor. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Verify idle speed too - there is a speed at which that acceptable timing range is defined by Volvo. Then prevent it from advancing by blocking off that vacuum hose to the ignition box with a BB in the end. Plug the hose back in so everything looks Kosher.
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Old 06-07-2019, 11:56 AM   #40
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Set the static timing at 10 degrees or as close as you can get using a timing light and rotating the distributor. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Verify idle speed too - there is a speed at which that acceptable timing range is defined by Volvo. Then prevent it from advancing by blocking off that vacuum hose to the ignition box with a BB in the end. Plug the hose back in so everything looks Kosher.
I think it's 750 rpm on the plaque if I remember correctly. And my idle is around there, about 700-800 by estimate. And can't I just tape the vacuum hose shut instead of risking getting a BB stuck?

The smog test before I bought the car says 12° but the one I failed at says 6°, which means the timing has been retarded even though back in November, I advanced it to 13°. So I turned the distributor back to it's original spot (easy to tell because it's a clean spot from where the bolt must have been for 32 years) and now the car feels different and pops/crackles a LOT more on deceleration. I'll be checking properly with a timing light that I go to 10-11°. I just plugged both the hose and the diaphragm nipple with electrical tape.

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 06-07-2019 at 12:56 PM..
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:36 PM   #41
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1200 rpm is the point where it wont do a smog test. As long as its below that its ok unless your smog guy is picky, IIRC.
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:55 PM   #42
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1200 rpm is the point where it wont do a smog test. As long as its below that its ok unless your smog guy is picky, IIRC.
What do you mean it won't do a smog test? They did a test at 15 mph with 1518 rpm and another at 25 mph with 2566 rpm
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Old 06-07-2019, 04:17 PM   #43
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They check timing at idle though, before the car goes on the rollers. I think Luke means they will allow anything under 1200rpm idle speed for that part of the test.
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Old 06-07-2019, 05:56 PM   #44
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They check timing at idle though, before the car goes on the rollers. I think Luke means they will allow anything under 1200rpm idle speed for that part of the test.
Ah okay, still don't know how me advancing the timing by turning the distributor left ended up being 6° according to the smog test.
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Old 06-08-2019, 12:27 AM   #45
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first off, you need a timing light... at the higher rpms I'd bet your timing is crazy advanced, like 25° or more... I mean come on, you blew a "1" NOX at 1500 rpm and them an 800 at 2500 rpm... right??? Plugging the vacuum at the ignition computer keeps the advance way down, more like a normal curve.

Also, I just ate a burrito, chicken, beans and pico and it was delicious
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Old 06-08-2019, 12:38 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philski o'flood View Post
first off, you need a timing light... at the higher rpms I'd bet your timing is crazy advanced, like 25° or more... I mean come on, you blew a "1" NOX at 1500 rpm and them an 800 at 2500 rpm... right??? Plugging the vacuum at the ignition computer keeps the advance way down, more like a normal curve.

Also, I just ate a burrito, chicken, beans and pico and it was delicious
I'll hopefully have access to a timing light on the weekend when I do my oil change.

Congrats on the burrito, very customizable and delicious thing to eat. We just had tacos.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:39 PM   #47
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Okay fresh oil change done, a gallon of Rotella T6 and a black Mahle filter. We think the timing is set to 10, we're not exactly sure.

The timing marks we saw looked like this: http://b0.img.mobypicture.com/38fd08...e2e80_view.jpg

We set the notch on the crank pulley to line up to the 10° mark at idle. Then on his fancy timing light, we did a check where we "added" 10° and the notch lined up with the 0° mark all the way to the right, which we assume is TDC. When we revved the car, the notch moved over to the mark just to the left of the 10, which we think is 15°.

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 06-08-2019 at 11:27 PM..
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:41 PM   #48
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The photo you linked shows the notch lined up with 0 degrees meaning the crank is at TDC for cylinder #1. From your description it sounds like you timed it correctly. You want the static timing (meaning the reading at idle speed with no advance) to be right on the 10 deg. mark in this case.

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Old 06-08-2019, 11:51 PM   #49
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Then I guess we timed it right. Now I'll just drive around to get the O2 sensor working and then do the next smog check maybe Tuesday/Wednesday. The exhaust still crackles like pop corn, not sure if that's a good thing or not. Sounds great.

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 06-09-2019 at 12:04 AM..
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Old 06-09-2019, 01:29 AM   #50
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Ok, so I would assume running e-15 or even half e30 shouldn't really hurt anything ?
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