I get that a straight edge is too "straight" no profile. But it will give you a point of reference.
-
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software hereThank you for being a part of our community!
It'll buff out? 242
- Thread starter NONHOG
- Start date
I get that a straight edge is too "straight" no profile. But it will give you a point of reference.
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
~30 years back when I was doing body & paint, they made a product called "Fiber Fill" which was basically a really thick primer like material. BITD, what you did once you believed the panel had been worked flat, was to shoot this quarter with that spray fill, and then sand with your 18" long flex sanding board (stiff foam backed with aluminum). A ton of that debris would hit the shop floor, but slowly/surely the lows would be filled. A good body man could "feel it straight" with a dust covered hand..... you feel what you cannot see in primer.
I would stay away from that "spray bondo" stuff. Better off hammer and dolly, heat and cool the panel, shrinking hammer and dolly, you get my drift. Also no metal filler stuff. It will take some work but you will end up with just a skim coat of filler and a better repair.
M.H. Yount
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Absolutely. Takes craft/skill and patience which is generally in short supply in most body shops these days. And because it takes a ton of time, often why a new/straight replacement panel is welded in. In my experience, eventually the fillers will crack.
sksmith
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2007
- Location
- Back in St. Louis, MO
Not to speak for DET17, but I think he is referring to using a filler after the hammer & dolly work, not just hitting the panel with it at this stage.
Great work NONHOG!!
Steve
Great work NONHOG!!
Steve
M.H. Yount
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
It's handy for finding spots that aren't straight.
Problem is it can't distinguish between a low spot that's actually low, and a low spot that's where it should be between 2 spots that are too high. Hammer/dolly/shrink/stretch, guide coats and a good hand/eye.
Shifted
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2007
- Location
- The Hill, Shinshu Japan
Like this: https://www.coldistributor.com/en/car-o-liner/media/joining-heating/cr35-spotter/
http://www.ldcequipment.com/spotters_plasma_cutters.html
But yeah a regular stud welder is good too, more multi-purpose.
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
ftfy, LOL
Yes it'll no doubt take a skim coat, no big deal.
Its already past what the average guy would just start filling with mud.
I'm not the average guy but I am limited in bodywork experience. Done enough to understand the process but not enough to consider myself "experienced"
Lucky for me Larry is helping me out.
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
I could do it in less than half the time of the last one. LOL Have not ruled it out.
Local guy parting a 2WD Explorer, in my town. Must be a sign?
Stud welders are a great tool. Ask around I'm sure someone in your group already owns one. My friend has one. I borrowed it to pull a small crease on the silver coupe. Easy peasy. I too was thinking of buying one but the tool would not get much use. Nice to have but already have enough things.
Shifted
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2007
- Location
- The Hill, Shinshu Japan
I'm not familiar with the one you posted but I don't see why not, unless you plan to go into the body repair business.
The other thing I'd suggest before trying to do too much more is to strip that panel back to clean metal. All that color and texture variation on there now will mess with your perception, making it much harder to see and feel where you're really at. If you're worried about rust forming give it a light coating of primer, and re-apply as necessary as you strip and work and strip and work.
The other thing I'd suggest before trying to do too much more is to strip that panel back to clean metal. All that color and texture variation on there now will mess with your perception, making it much harder to see and feel where you're really at. If you're worried about rust forming give it a light coating of primer, and re-apply as necessary as you strip and work and strip and work.
Last edited:
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
That's a fun tool to use. Makes you want to dent a panel just to try it out.
Excited to try it out. I do have a van with a dent
that will be a good test run. Besides Larry asked me to not use it on the Volvo until he gets back. I'm okay with that.
.
Any thoughts on painting the tail lights?
Want to duplicate the silver/gray with a bomb can.
NONHOG
equal opportunity car guy
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Location
- Tucson ish
