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Old 09-14-2019, 09:55 PM   #26
cleanflametrap
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I'll put a pipe on this tool if my rubber mallet doesn't do it, while the strut is in the car. How do you use a breaker bar on it??

http://cleanflametrap.com/strut.html
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:01 PM   #27
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I'll put a pipe on this tool if my rubber mallet doesn't do it, while the strut is in the car. How do you use a breaker bar on it??

http://cleanflametrap.com/strut.html
Iím willing to give that tool a try. What is it called and where did you get into from?
The rust on the gland nuts is so bad I think itís rusted itself to the spindle housing.

I was trying to use a pipe wrench on the spindle housing with a breaker bar and a vice grip on the nut itself. To no avail after 6 hours....
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:05 PM   #28
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What is it called and where did you get into from?...
I call it a hook spanner, and I got it mail order from Harbor Freight Tools, before they built their local store network across the country.
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:40 PM   #29
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I use a large chisel and 3lb sledge hammer to loosen the gland nut. It doesn't matter if you mangle the gland nut as the new inserts will come with new ones.
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:45 PM   #30
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I had trouble getting the gland nut off once. It took two torches and a pipe wrench to get it off.
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:20 PM   #31
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Look out if the gland nuts are the spot welded together ones. Like on KYB for example. When using the pipe wrench on them you can rip the top spot welded part right off. Then you need an air chisel or sledge and chisel to get the remaining chunk of the nut out of the strut. Beware of an overtightened gland nut. Usually the pipe wrench with pipe over the handle get the tough ones. Crude but effective.
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Old 09-15-2019, 12:01 AM   #32
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Iíll give the pipe wrench with breaker bar and torch Combo a try again tomorrow.
The rust is just terrible. Good to note about the spot weld. I believe these are very old OE parts that are on the car. I cannot find any evidence of spot welding.

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Old 09-15-2019, 12:10 AM   #33
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That is way too big to see but the crusty stuff I do see is what we get over here in brine land.
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:41 AM   #34
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Sorry, how do I get it sized normally?
The gland nut is completely rusted and crusty on to the spindle housing...
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:49 AM   #35
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Old 09-15-2019, 09:12 AM   #36
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I used a cold chisel and a hammer to break them free on my car. But mine was not rusty at all.
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:32 AM   #37
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Cheapest way I know to go after that one.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:39 PM   #38
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Soaking time is helpful. The longer the strut has time to sit and let the penetrant seep into the threads. The better. that hook spanner that Art mentioned will fit into that nut but the pipe wrench should do the job.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:54 PM   #39
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Buy some new to you rust free struts.

The spring perches are about to rust through anyway.
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how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-15-2019, 03:49 PM   #40
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Buy some new to you rust free struts.

The spring perches are about to rust through anyway.
+1 on that.

Even if you DO get it off, you may well wind up finding that the threads on the spindle/housing are messed up and the new gland nut will not hold.

Ask me how I know.
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:49 PM   #41
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When my abs struts were stuck like that. I bought a nice set from voluparts in GA.
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:01 PM   #42
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I got the one side off and was able to get the new strut and the gland nut on. However, I can’t get the last 5 threads on. How did ya’ll get it in all the way?

The original gland nut had 14 threads whereas the new ones with the Bilstein B6 has 18 on there.
I have 5 threads exposed. Is this a problem?
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:01 PM   #43
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I call it a hook spanner, and I got it mail order from Harbor Freight Tools, before they built their local store network across the country.
And yeah, that's what it's called. An "adjustable hook spanner". You can find them on Amazon (or Snap-On if you have access to that).

Funny story is that the last time I did my struts I fought with the OEM-style gland nuts much as the OP is (although mine weren't terribly rusted...just old and been for a long time). I used all manner of improvised tools - channel lock pliers, vise grips, pipes, breaker bar - and then bought the honking big pipe wrench (I'll never understand how that's supposed to work since most of those things are so loose that they can't keep a good grip on something truly stuck)...all to no avail. I ended up using a cold chisel and a 3# hammer and that did it...although it pretty much killed the gland nut. Fortunately the new struts had new (again, OEM-style with the slots in them) gland nuts.

A week later, I was at one of those old-guy tool auctions/sales where a 120 year old machine shop was liquidating, and I found this totally weird wrench thing that I'd never encountered before. But something told me to "buy it" (it was all of 3 bucks and is clearly about 50 years old...even older than the Volvo).

2 weeks after that, one of the gland nuts on my newly installed struts starts to creep out (see previous post). I dread the idea of pulling everything apart to tighten the thing down...but get the idea that maybe I can sneak some kind of wrench between spring coils and tighten down the nut. Enter the weird wrench from the tool sale. Works perfectly. And now I know what an adjustable hook spanner is for.

And the nut stayed down until it started to creep up again...whereupon I realized that the threads in the tube were messed up and would never hold the nut tight. At which point I had it spot welded to the tube and ordered a new (to me) spindle/hub/tube set up from one of the helpful folks here on TB...for the NEXT time I have to do that side and just scrap the whole thing for a new one with good threads. But hey, I've got the right wrench now at least.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:44 PM   #44
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Ha! That’s funny. I got it all back in for now. What I can’t figure out now is how to break the jam nut on the tie rod.

Also, are the 5 exposed threads in the new gland nut acceptable?
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:45 PM   #45
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With 13 out of 18 threads used. If the nut is tight enough. That should be fine.

Are you replacing the tie rod and the tie rod ends? Then just remove the boot and take them both off together. If you are just trying to get the jam nut free. Penetrating oil and a torch are probably your best bet. They do fuse together and I just replace the whole damn thing when that happens.
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:58 AM   #46
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Yep, that makes sense. The only reason I was trying to loosen the jam nut was to get the boot.
I’m using new inner and outer tie rods. Is there a trick to get the boot out without loosening the jam nut?

Good to note on the number of threads. Passenger side is coming along minus getting my boots off the old tie rods. Driver’s side is completely toast. I have a feeling I’m going to have to get a machine to machine that old gland nut off. Gave it another shot this morning to no avail.

Also, my jounce hoses are cracking mildly and I wanted to replace them.
However, when I put a 11mm flare nut wrench, the fitting on the brake line just rounded off instead of moving. Time to take it to a brake shop?
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Old 09-16-2019, 11:30 AM   #47
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OE Volvo 240 Front Strut Brake Hard Line Driver Side Pair (2) 242 244 245 DL


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Old 09-16-2019, 01:56 PM   #48
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Mis post sorry
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:00 PM   #49
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Thanks. Those are the ones from the junction block to the jounce hoses, correct? I also need the hard lines from the flex hose to the caliper.

Would it be 2 of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Volvo-24...75.c100623.m-1
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:29 PM   #50
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No.
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