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Old 09-10-2021, 10:09 AM   #26
stick70
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Badass. The B18/20 engines seem to do exceptionally well sitting for unreasonable periods of time.
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:29 AM   #27
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The real question: can I modify a weber 38/38 downdraft for boost? I'd like to add boost to the car without having to go full EFI conversion for now. MSD makes a box that will retard timing based on boost pressure. J-pipe on stock exhaust manifold with a 13c on top to feed it.
Sure. Just run it suck through with no ic. Should only need a carb adapter>turbo inlet, then an adapter from the turbo to the intake manifold… or a y to an SU manifold.
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:50 AM   #28
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A higher pressure pump and a boost-referenced fuel regulator
A plenum/hat for the DGV
Plumb the boost to the float bowl
Replace the floats (??? I think some versions can collapse under boost)

Really, unless you like the technical challenge of making it work, you'd be far better off getting a D-Jet head and injectors and megasquirting it for boost.
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Old 09-10-2021, 11:25 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Sure. Just run it suck through with no ic. Should only need a carb adapter>turbo inlet, then an adapter from the turbo to the intake manifold… or a y to an SU manifold.
Don't you need a special turbo with carbon seals to do drawthrough?

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A higher pressure pump and a boost-referenced fuel regulator
A plenum/hat for the DGV
Plumb the boost to the float bowl
Replace the floats (??? I think some versions can collapse under boost)

Really, unless you like the technical challenge of making it work, you'd be far better off getting a D-Jet head and injectors and megasquirting it for boost.
The only reason I don't want to do MS initially is just cost. I have no issue converting after a few months if I like the proof of concept.
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Old 09-10-2021, 12:25 PM   #30
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https://youtu.be/fqzDCkZh7fM
https://youtu.be/rbxjrl1Pqk4
https://youtu.be/Ea0JDwVUSAA

Proof of concept?

I wouldn’t worry about carbon seals with draw through.
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Old 09-10-2021, 01:06 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
The real question: can I modify a weber 38/38 downdraft for boost? I'd like to add boost to the car without having to go full EFI conversion for now. MSD makes a box that will retard timing based on boost pressure. J-pipe on stock exhaust manifold with a 13c on top to feed it.
Yep, you can modify the Weber 38 DGS and 32/36 DGV carbs for boost. Although from what I've read the fuel pressure can become an issue. You'll need a boost referenced regulator. Also I've read about problems with the power valve handling the wildly variable pressures and blowing out.

You could also look at doing a blow through with an SU HIF44 or HIF6, the British car enthusiasts have figured out almost every possible way to run an SU with boost.

When I was looking at adding boost to my B20 I was instead thinking the supercharger (Eaton M45/M62 or Aisin SC14) and draw through carburetor route.
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Old Yesterday, 02:10 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
https://youtu.be/fqzDCkZh7fM
https://youtu.be/rbxjrl1Pqk4
https://youtu.be/Ea0JDwVUSAA

Proof of concept?

I wouldn’t worry about carbon seals with draw through.
Jens' car is phenomenal. I watch those videos monthly for no reason. Yours is equally as excellent.
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Old Yesterday, 03:04 PM   #33
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Jens car is awesome. There are more than a few guys over on Savar Turbo that are running suck through with big turbos. One is running a big 4 barrel and a Holset of some sort, but I cant find it.

Hopefully my engine will get its refresh this winter and be back out. I havent been able to drive the new EFR and air to water IC setup much, but the couple pulls around the block were promising. Redesigning my manifolds was probably not where all the gains were made, but it sounds way different, and pulls earlier leaving me feeling like the torque band is that of a tightly wound NA. Everthing above 2500 hits way harder than the 16t, and getting there from idle is way smoother and less of a shocker, more linear so thats nice. Now I just need to get a few runs in and decide how far to change the gearing. I'm almost thinking that the 4.56 was the right spot, and I just needed a solid 5th instead of dropping to the 3.73.

The jump to MS is really the way to go if youre planning on going any further than 7-10 psi.
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Old Yesterday, 03:33 PM   #34
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With the suspension and interior work, trim and lights. That will use up any engine mod money.
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Old Yesterday, 03:54 PM   #35
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With the suspension and interior work, trim and lights. That will use up any engine mod money.
Fear not. This car will be getting zero interior or trim work besides me bolting a ****ty Recaro seat into it, a new windshield, and probably some weatherstripping.
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Old Yesterday, 04:04 PM   #36
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Whistling wind noise from crappy door seals covers up all sorts of rattling!
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Old Yesterday, 05:04 PM   #37
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Whistling wind noise from crappy door seals covers up all sorts of rattling!
Hood exit will fix that whistling wind.
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Old Yesterday, 07:38 PM   #38
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