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Old 09-08-2018, 07:58 AM   #401
DET17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJS8 View Post
Much to late to be of any use, but as far as paper filter replacements for a 76mm AMM

Mercedes 2710940204
Height [mm]: 249
O.D. [mm]: 132,5
I.D. [mm]: 77,2

Vielen dank, sir for adding those details to this thread. I'm still on the fence about the K&N air filtration abilities (I followed their instructions to the letter on oiling). I know they sell a PRE filter bag which fits over top the hard filter, supposed to improve the fine particle removal. From a quick scan of your Mercedes paper filter, I think it might also fit the air box. If you've got one of these installed I'd like to see the pics.......
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:07 PM   #402
DET17
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Default 740SE foglights

So, about 2 months ago I'm scanning the TB For Sale section, and a Canadian fellow is selling off a hoard of parts, many NOS. One item that caught my eye is a conversion kit for adding the 740SE fog lights to a late 7 & 9 series. Of course by the time I find a couple pics of these fogs, they are sold (I think for $325 CAD). I ask the seller if he can advise the P/N of the kit, which he did.

Since the new front end of my car is NON Fog, I'm thinking those lights would restore the lighting that I've lost. More curious, I search eBay with the VOLVO kit #.... and this pops up:



Seller is asking $400..... I shoot him a message and ask for pics. He responds the next day with an offer for the complete kit at $200 shipped, and in the comments says "Make me an offer". Ray Charles can see this guy is motivated! I'm guessing he bought somebody's closed business and was liquidating. One counteroffer later ($135 shipped) I'm the proud owner of the complete NOS kit:



Speaking of NOS, how about this time capsule?




How many sets of these do you reckon are left?


Complete VOLVO kit including installation instructions (6 languages). Included cut out templates to perfectly locate these on the 90-92 740 and 92-98 940 bumpers:



Corners of each cut radiused using a drill bit, because stress riser:



Fine tooth blade in my Jig saw, easy peasy to saw the hole out for each light's clearance:



I didn't taker the time to document the electrical work, which is considerable. The entire fuse block is removed, and a relay & base must be installed, as well as a good half dozen control, power & ground wires. Once that is added, a new control harness is routed under dash (all of mine was out/open so my timing was great). Finally the power cable is routed thru the firewall and up to just above the battery area. The coolest thing.... all OEM Volvo cables with the same style of material & red tags for electrical identification as the car came with.

Tip of the hat to VOLVO.... the conversion kit is extremely well documented, with the only real challenge being the wiring on the control side is executed differently by Country laws..... and I followed the USA wiring. My fogs are actuated with the low beams (you can select high beams also), as I know high beams in thick fog don't work very well.

The finished product..... what do you think?

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Old 09-10-2018, 11:25 PM   #403
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Daddy likes! Although, my driving in fog moments are few/far between in mine (once, maybe?) - so I prefer driving lights.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:03 PM   #404
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That looks awesome!
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:58 PM   #405
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Default MIG welding 409 stainless exhaust pipes

I've mentioned previous that the DD has a TME cat back exhaust. I knew it was stainless, but not much else about the material. The pipes have always had a slight patina that looks like rust, but more like "stain" than rust (no thickness to the color). More research shows that the slightly magnetic pipes are made from 409 stainless.

So, the issue I've lived with since I bought the used TME setup, is when "bolted up" to the transition pipe behind the CAT, always resulted in the muffler stainless tip pointing down rather than ~ horizontal. For the last hurrah on the DD, I decided to fix this and modify the pipes so the muffler tip is properly horizontal.

A little research on MIG machines shows that they are capable of welding stainless steel. Not as pretty as TIG welds, but quite functional. On the sage advice of my machinist buddy, I bought a small roll of 309L .030" wire for my Millermatic 175, and he loaned me his TRI-Mix gas (which includes Helium). All the welding forums agree..... this combo of MIG wire and proper shield gas will yield quality stainless steel welds.

I took a bunch of field dims, and purchased an eBay 409 stainless pipe which was flared for 2.5" ID slip fit onto the back of my CAT transition pipe (3" --> 2.5").

Once the materials and pipe arrived, I again elevated the car so I could get it level on jack stands, and then carefully measure what I had. After I had all the dims, I removed the TME pipe which runs over axle and began the surgery:



Using a cardboard cereal box, I wrapped the pipe and made a square cutting line. Free handing with a 4" Metabo wheel, I had a nice square pipe to weld to:


I needed a compound offset to get the TME over axle pipe to approach the CAT exit pipe. Fortunately, I determined the discarded piece I removed from the same TME pipe once shortened and "clocked" would bring my over axle pipe concentric and mostly square with the CAT exit. After prodigious measuring, I cut the dropped piece, clocked it and tacked it:




Prior to this exhaust surgery, I took a couple scrap pieces of the 409 stainless pipe and practiced MIG welding them butt fashion. You end up using more shield gas and LESS voltage than the Miller guide suggests, but I ended up with good penetration that didn't blow thru the .065" wall exhaust pipe. Having achieved competency with the butt joint weld, I took a breath and welded the real butt joint together. Ugly a$$ black welds are what you should expect when MIG welding stainless.... but they are quite functional:



With the over axle pipe revised in stainless, I used a pair of Volvo scissor jacks to get the final "measure twice, cut once" dimensions of the last piece. From memory, the lengths needed to create last butt joint were 113, 112, 111, and 112mm. Here the mockup to determine these critical dims:



With the last 409 stainless pipe laid out perfectly, I made the METABO surgical cuts, cleaned up the butt joint & confirmed clocking.... and made the 2nd butt weld:



Now with the most difficult pair of butt joints welded, I chose to use the METABO blade and make 8 equidistant cuts at my slip joint, so that I could pull it down with an exhaust clamp and not weld that joint behind the CAT (retain flexibility for removal/repair). I am pleased with my cuts on the slip joint (used a square & sharpie, then free handed with the METABO):



This last slip joint was easy to assemble, since I had a V-band ahead of the 3" high flow CAT. With the full exhaust assembled and the car sitting at ride height, I've got more than 90mm between the road and the lowest point of my exhaust..... would have been ideal at 100mm, but I'll take it. In fact, the bottom of the supposed TLAO 3" DP is lower than my rear piping.

The shameful angled tip TME is gone, and I didn't have to settle for a crush bent exhaust transition from the local redneck exhaust shop. Another box checked off........ and ever closer to driving Cheap Thrills to the windshield shop
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:09 PM   #406
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Nice work on the exhaust and great score with the fog lights!
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:08 AM   #407
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Still got the lights and grille you pulled off?
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:13 AM   #408
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Still got the lights and grille you pulled off?
Why YES, I certainly do. Shoot me a PM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:49 PM   #409
DET17
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Default Windshield/windscreen replacement and trim fitting

I'm nearing the end of my saga with the old 940 sedan.... it now is at a paint shop getting a serious paint facelift. Prior to the end of this story, I thought I'd update some details on the front glass & trim replacement.

My '92 had a well used replacement windshield installed when I bought it.... every time I drove into the sun it looked like "a thousand points of light". As part of this final effort, I wanted a new piece of glass installed to ease the strain on my aging eyes.

I began the process by removing the exterior trim, and post windshield install I chose to self install a newer set of the exterior trim. Our moderator 2manyturbos suggested that I find the 94-95 version of the exterior trim for the design improvement provided by the last offering. I picked the front glass trim from a pair of 95's in our local Pull-a-part yards. Veteran TBer 15a gave more good advice, recommending using a steel flat blade slide flat against the glass to drive directly into the plastic retention trim.... this breaks the plastic clip and releases the fragile external trim without damage. TIP - practice on a junkyard car that you don't want the trim from! I buggered up an earlier car until I figured out exactly where to hit the clips to break them without trim damage. GREAT tip from 15a!

To start it off, here are the clips you need to buy to install the trim:



There are a grand total of 15 of these clips needed to attach the complete surround to your late 7 or 9 series. Don't be foolish and recycle old ones.... they get brittle, and won't engage properly into your trim.

I paid a local veteran glass shop (same location and family since '72) to replace the windscreen. They searched and confirmed there were no more Swedish/German glass showing available in the supply chain, so I had no choice but install the China glass. Some comfort came in hearing the best glass company which supplies the Korean auto companies are the only China glass the veteran shop will use (don't recall the name). They charged me $175 for glass removal and replacement only.... no trim removal/reinstall.

I've been informed that auto glass installers no longer use the butyl based adhesive (OEM Volvo and probably all Euro vehicles) for the glass... all replacements are now installed using a urethane based adhesive. The next step was to get the 15 trim retention clips installed. Here are some pics of the process:







Due to the size of the bead of urethane adhesive, it had to be surgically cut and removed so the glass retention clips can be attached to the steel pins inside the glass mounting area. To finish the 15 clip install, I backfilled around the clips with black RTV, to keep water away from the glass.
Here's a couple shots of the clip areas backfilled with the RTV:





Now with new retention clips installed and sealed, time for the 95 version of windshield trim to be installed. Yet another excellent tip from 2manyturbos was to lube the clips with Windex, then gently strike the trim face with a plastic deadblow hammer. I rolled up a washcloth to distribute the force..... when the blow was delivered the trim will SNAP loudly and the trim is attached to that clip. If you note in the pics you can see my yellow grease pencil marks on the paint around the glass, so I knew exactly where to place the plastic hammer blows.

A last few pics showing the A pillar corner pieces and the top header piece installed:







Last BTDT tip; before you attempt to install your exterior trim, waste a couple spare "new"clips and get the feel for the deadblow hammer technique to attach the exterior trim. The trim is indeed fragile as 15a told me.... and there isn't that much of it left to salvage. I pieced together a usable set from 2 donors.... the southern sunshine isn't kind to this coated trim. Otherwise, look for donors in the PNW or Canada which are probably the best specimens left.

Last edited by DET17; 01-07-2019 at 11:08 PM.. Reason: rev 1.0 to the narrative; added detail
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