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Old 11-25-2017, 07:33 PM   #1
thelostartof
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Default Guess that noise

I just got the car running again after snaping a TV cable for the trans. First test drive around 10 miles into the drive and this happens. Go figure, I never went over 9psi so who knows what went wrong this time. Engine definitely is down a cyl so we shall see if I can find some time to tear into it tomorrow.

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Old 11-25-2017, 07:38 PM   #2
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oof
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:08 PM   #3
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Sounds like its right under the valve cover. Flick a shim out?
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:09 PM   #4
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Bad rod bearing.
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:23 PM   #5
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^^

Unfortunately, I agree. I have had 2 B230FTs lose a rod bearing and they sounded Exactly like that.
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:36 PM   #6
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^^

Unfortunately, I agree. I have had 2 B230FTs lose a rod bearing and they sounded Exactly like that.
Hmmm... interesting. Though, I've never had a rod bearing go on a redblock. Toyotas have more of a thud sound. Damned engine acoustics.
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:38 PM   #7
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Hmmm... interesting. Though, I've never had a rod bearing go on a redblock. Toyotas have more of a thud sound. Damned engine acoustics.
I tried real hard to convince myself it was something else. When I pulled the head I could move the piston down .020" before it stopped by backing the crank up first.
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
I tried real hard to convince myself it was something else. When I pulled the head I could move the piston down .020" before it stopped by backing the crank up first.
Understood. I'll know what to listen for. Not something I'm wishing for
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:13 AM   #9
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Well the good news is that the clacking has stopped, the bad news is that is it still firing on only 3 cyl, oddly enough cyl number 3 is dead, pulling the injector plug or coil does nothing.

I am trying to decide if I want to throw the rods i have in the n/a block sitting on the engine stand or if I want to try to do something a bit more extreme and then what block to use. In a month or so I will have a second 1993+ n/a block available. But this is the perfect winter weather to be driving a turbo car not working on it.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:15 AM   #10
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Almost sounds too fast for a rod knock, knowing what mine sounds like with slap. Double-checked the flex plate hardware yet? I'd also expect a tone change between throttling up and winding down (based on experience, having lost a couple rod bearings in mine). Strange...

sure...reply WHILE I'm typing...

How's the oil pressure? Vacuum stable? More blowby than before?
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:35 AM   #11
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Have you done a compression test?
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:39 AM   #12
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Oil pressure was rock solid in the sense that the oil light never came on, I was about 1 qrt low in terms of oil was at the bottom of the dipstick mark. I will try to pay attention to vac maybe if I start it back up again. Vac has always been 11-13 on this engine. No smoke out the tail.

Either way I will pull the plug for #3 tomorrow and see if I can get my scope in the hole and see what is going on. I guess I might also be draining the oil to check it. The dipstick and oil in VC looked fairly clean.

While I am hoping it is the head I almost want it to be the block and the head is still good, either way lots of taking it slow tear down in front of me and $ to be spent. Great time for a fresh block, new exhaust manifold and new turbo along with all kinds of other stuff right? Or maybe just another block so it drives, turn the boost down and V8 swap the 944 and then V8 swap this once I know what I am doing and then add a turbo. Who knows what tomorrow's mood will put me in.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:55 PM   #13
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Slipped valve guide?
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Old 11-26-2017, 01:17 PM   #14
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Following but had a Sbc sound like that and I thought rod but it was the cracked flex plate.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:38 PM   #15
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Heard similar to ^^^^ as well. Brother got blamed for it on the parents van until they found a bolt had backed out of the converter. lol
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:48 PM   #16
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That could be it. My Camaro did the same thing. Chewed the heck out of the flex plate and the sheet metal inspection cover.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:46 PM   #17
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Well the issue might not be a lower end issue . . .

But either way it looks like I will need a full long block worth of work to fix this one, and depending on my luck a turbo also if it damaged the wheel exiting the engine.



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Old 11-26-2017, 08:01 PM   #18
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Bummer. It definitely sounded piston/rod related to me.
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Old 11-27-2017, 09:12 AM   #19
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Valve guide!!! It comes apart when is slips down. Had it happen twice on a 530 head I had a lot of time and money invested in.
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:15 PM   #20
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Source of noise found, screw for the throttle plate. I guess there is a first time for everything, first time I have seen this as a failure on these engines. Broken in two places.







And the damage




Yes that is the threaded part of the screw there.


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Old 12-10-2017, 12:22 PM   #21
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Never seen a broken shaft, lost srews for throttle plate a few .

The head was gone too, if the piston rings are still free and not blocked by the damage you can run them still.
Had seen worse still running.

good luck, Kay
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:28 PM   #22
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Ooer, has the TB been apart before?
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:34 PM   #23
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thats an awful way to bust a motor ( as if there is a good way ), anyways best of luck man.
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Old 12-10-2017, 02:25 PM   #24
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As far as I know the throttle shaft has never been apart. And a very sad way for a 531 to die along with and engine. The block looks like it should still be good. I am hoping a quick hone might remove the small mark on the bore otherwise it might be getting bored out for a rebuild far into the future. Now to put together the H beams I have here into my spare na block.
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Old 12-10-2017, 02:50 PM   #25
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It will buff right out
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