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Old 11-24-2017, 02:43 AM   #1
GeneralBurrito
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Default Which cam for the b230f is the most worth it now?

I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:43 AM   #2
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Post an ad in the wanted section of these forums. A/b cams typically run $50-75 from what I've seen. K cams do bring a little bit more. $250 for one is wild.
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:56 AM   #3
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pretty sure I paid around $60 for mine, that was posted for sale on this site. Just ask for one or look. --B cam, made a noticeable difference.

You can get a A/B cam for pretty cheap. When I see H/K or the V cams, they seem to be a bit more especially on ebay. Also keep in mind buying from IPD its new so for sure more expensive the Volvo cams are going to be used but worth it.
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Old 11-24-2017, 09:38 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by vwblue1967 View Post
pretty sure I paid around $60 for mine, that was posted for sale on this site. Just ask for one or look. --B cam, made a noticeable difference.

You can get a A/B cam for pretty cheap. When I see H/K or the V cams, they seem to be a bit more especially on ebay. Also keep in mind buying from IPD its new so for sure more expensive the Volvo cams are going to be used but worth it.
Would you recommend a K cam? I have also heard of the RSI stage 1 cam being an overall better cam than the K, but RSI is long gone. Also, would a K cam pass emissions in California? Given I have the lh2.2, I could advance the timing a little to help with the weaker low end and have an overall better powerband.

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 11-24-2017 at 09:51 AM.. Reason: adding more information
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Old 11-24-2017, 10:15 AM   #5
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Do you have auto or manual? K cam is great for a manual. If auto, A or B cam would be a good budget route. B cams go for 50-60. A cams a little more 75-100. The guy on ebay has those cams overpriced.
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Old 11-24-2017, 10:33 AM   #6
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Do you have auto or manual? K cam is great for a manual. If auto, A or B cam would be a good budget route. B cams go for 50-60. A cams a little more 75-100. The guy on ebay has those cams overpriced.
I have an m47. Doing a little more research, it seems the V cam would maybe work a little better for me as it has a little better low end than the K. Is the D cam any special? Some people have said that the D is the best for an NA application.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:07 PM   #7
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I run an A cam in my 91 wagon and previously in my 83 coupe (which now has an H).

Little more lump in the idle, but definitely increased power. With the A instead of the M, I can pull a hill on the highway that I previously would have to downshift for.

With its increased lift/duration/overlap, I would have a hard time believing that it would pass emissions in CA. You never know however and it wouldn't be expensive to give it a try.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:40 PM   #8
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as usual, you didn't say what for? For usage? Plans?
NO: name age budget skills anything about who the fawk you are or what you want to do or anything..
(Notice how the lack of any clue as to who what why you are, people just jump right in with opinions?)

Want to try again?
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:39 PM   #9
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as usual, you didn't say what for? For usage? Plans?
NO: name age budget skills anything about who the fawk you are or what you want to do or anything..
(Notice how the lack of any clue as to who what why you are, people just jump right in with opinions?)

Want to try again?
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
I assure you he is not angry.

Just imagine for a second.

An old Volvo, hood open, a few guys looking under the hood having a beer.

You show up, without any introduction, and say :

"I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?"

People would frown.
That's what this is, frowning, no big deal, no anger, no hard feeling.
And in this situation, it's kind of a normal reaction.
Don't you think?

So let's try again (now that you have mentionned your goals):

Hey dude, welcome to the forum, name's Vince.
What's your name?
How old are you?
What car do you drive?
Have you ****ed with cars for a long time or you a new to it?
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Old 11-24-2017, 04:42 PM   #11
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QFT

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
I assure you he is not angry.

Just imagine for a second.

An old Volvo, hood open, a few guys looking under the hood having a beer.

You show up, without any introduction, and say :

"I read around that the A/B/K cams were a great upgrade over the stock M cam. But seeing as how they are going for around $250+ on eBay now, would the IPD cams be a better buy?"

People would frown.
That's what this is, frowning, no big deal, no anger, no hard feeling.
And in this situation, it's kind of a normal reaction.
Don't you think?

So let's try again (now that you have mentionned your goals):

Hey dude, welcome to the forum, name's Vince.
What's your name?
How old are you?
What car do you drive?
Have you ****ed with cars for a long time or you a new to it?
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Old 11-24-2017, 04:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Would you recommend a K cam? I have also heard of the RSI stage 1 cam being an overall better cam than the K, but RSI is long gone. Also, would a K cam pass emissions in California? Given I have the lh2.2, I could advance the timing a little to help with the weaker low end and have an overall better powerband.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
Get a 'B' cam.
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:02 PM   #13
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The B cam made a noticeable difference in my old 89 B230F "NA" engine. Lease the shim kit from IPD, take your time, buy the hushers to quiet her down a bit (they probably lasted long enough to get new vehicles out of warranty). Take special care with your timing belt reinstallation and setup.... many on here have buggered that up, it has some tricks necessary to get it right. More than a few have destroyed valves/pistons by not torqueing the cam gear bolt properly. MORE tricks to do that right, and keep her running. You don't need IPD or RSI cams for a non Turbo DD that just needs to get out of it's own way a bit.

Nope, John isn't mad..... he's just seen this movie too many times
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:20 PM   #14
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B cam in my '90 n/a daily 240. It made a pretty good difference versus the stock M cam. It's still a slow car.
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
The B cam made a noticeable difference in my old 89 B230F "NA" engine. Lease the shim kit from IPD, take your time, buy the hushers to quiet her down a bit (they probably lasted long enough to get new vehicles out of warranty). Take special care with your timing belt reinstallation and setup.... many on here have buggered that up, it has some tricks necessary to get it right. More than a few have destroyed valves/pistons by not torqueing the cam gear bolt properly. MORE tricks to do that right, and keep her running. You don't need IPD or RSI cams for a non Turbo DD that just needs to get out of it's own way a bit.

Nope, John isn't mad..... he's just seen this movie too many times
How is the V cam in comparison to the B?


And to satisfy everyone:
Name: Pablo
Age: 20
Experience with general car service: auto service classes in HS, interned at a shop
Experience with Bricks: none
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
How is the V cam in comparison to the B?


And to satisfy everyone:
Name: Pablo
Age: 20
Experience with general car service: auto service classes in HS, interned at a shop
Experience with Bricks: none
Hi Pablo.

Here is some unofficial specs for the different cams :

http://turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=camspec
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:12 PM   #17
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Hi Pablo.

Here is some unofficial specs for the different cams :

http://turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=camspec
Thank you, I think I'll go with the V cam. Would it be recommended to get a cam and swap it while I have the timing belt replaced?
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Old 11-25-2017, 09:22 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Thank you, I think I'll go with the V cam. Would it be recommended to get a cam and swap it while I have the timing belt replaced?
The belt must come off to R&R the cam, so yes. Also suggested to change seals at the front of the engine (crank & aux. shaft) IF they show signs of leaking. If they are grey color rubber lip, and don't leak, leave them alone. Even tho the V cam might show small differences in lift/duration, I doubt you will be able to feel any difference between them.
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Old 11-25-2017, 03:20 PM   #19
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Replace the rear cam plug while in there and don't forget the hushers.
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Old 11-25-2017, 03:39 PM   #20
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Replace the rear cam plug while in there and don't forget the hushers.
How many hushers should I get?
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Old 11-25-2017, 03:51 PM   #21
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How many hushers should I get?
8 They go on the end of the valve stems and quiet the cam followers. Adjust the valves first, then, remove the cam and followers and install the hushers. It is a PITA.
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:07 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
Not at all! That's not even logical..Come on, you gonna work on cars there are logical things to do and to have any happiness---and that is the whole point of being here---then you must learn to be logical---within the illogical world.

here's a basic thing you must grasp:

Engine torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and (dynamic) compression ratio,,

The camshaft moves the powerband around--where peak tirque is in the revs and as a result of where peak torque is, where peak HP occurs..
But its torque that moves the car..
Fapping about one POS emmissions cam over another POS emissions cam is max fapping.

You want more fun?
Pull the head and surface (mill) it about .040"

Then get a cam that is supposed to be a FUN cam, not a POS emissions cam in a car designed and built and sold to crusty ol sprout eating white guys...

The car will be boo-coo funer-er...
Get the static comp up to somewhere between 11 and 11.4 and the K cam is fun.
But since people want stupid money for them I'm getting some cams out of Sweden that are FUN cams on new sticks that cost less than people have been asking---and getting---for used cams here in Fapp-central

Last edited by John V, outside agitator; 11-25-2017 at 04:13 PM..
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:10 PM   #23
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I'm going to disagree about the hushers. $25 in my wallet sounds much nicer than the minimal amount of valve noise they prevent.
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:13 PM   #24
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^^

The problem is, he is in CA where one has to be concerned about emissions. It doesn't take much modifying to make a car not pass CA emissions inspections, thus, non-licenseable.

I agree on the hushers. I don't install them on my own redblocks. When the valves are adjusted correctly, they are quiet without them, IMO. Besides, I love the sound of a solid cam. It's the percussion section in a symphony, IMO.
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
Not at all! That's not even logical..Come on, you gonna work on cars there are logical things to do and to have any happiness---and that is the whole point of being here---then you must learn to be logical---within the illogical world.

here's a basic thing you must grasp:

Engine torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and (dynamic) compression ratio,,

The camshaft moves the powerband around--where peak tirque is in the revs and as a result of where peak torque is, where peak HP occurs..
But its torque that moves the car..
Fapping about one POS emmissions cam over another POS emissions cam is max fapping.

You want more fun?
Pull the head and surface (mill) it about .040"

Then get a cam that is supposed to be a FUN cam, not a POS emissions cam in a car designed and built and sold to crusty ol sprout eating white guys...

The car will be boo-coo funer-er...
Get the static comp up to somewhere between 11 and 11.4 and the K cam is fun.
But since people want stupid money for them I'm getting some cams out of Sweden that are FUN cams on new sticks that cost less than people have been asking---and getting---for used cams here in Fapp-central
Yeah I was thinking about the K cam, but like you said people want some big money for them. And I have thought about milling the head, maybe later down the road.
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