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Old 12-04-2017, 03:40 PM   #1
alfavs.volvo
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Default Ebay exhaust manifold

Has anybody tried one of these?
https://www.ebay.com/i/232581199023?...D1382760564655

I am looking to +T the B230 in our 122 Lemons car. We need to mount the turbo up high to fit. This will be a low-boost setup for engine longevity (stock boost, or less) What turbo should we use? Junkyard availability is a must.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:41 PM   #2
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Yeah, but the flange is reversed and the manifold kind of sucks.
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:13 PM   #3
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Wow, the flange is backward! Do they intend to mount the turbo facing down? I guess the flange can be cut off and re-welded, but if the rest of it sucks...
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:31 PM   #4
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There's a handful of us using them without issue, I've got one in my s10 that's had the flange flipped, its not braced, and had 25-30psi from a t3/t4 shoved through it without issue for a while now, along with a shot of nitrous. No cracks, and it never felt like it wanted to stop pulling clear up to 6800. With a t cam.

So if it sucks, it doesn't suck quite as bad as a 90+ and a td04.

Of course, someone could make you something much better, but it's a cheap, readily available header, it is what it is and you usually get what you pay for.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by turbotankshane View Post
There's a handful of us using them without issue, I've got one in my s10 that's had the flange flipped, its not braced, and had 25-30psi from a t3/t4 shoved through it without issue for a while now, along with a shot of nitrous. No cracks, and it never felt like it wanted to stop pulling clear up to 6800. With a t cam.

So if it sucks, it doesn't suck quite as bad as a 90+ and a td04.

Of course, someone could make you something much better, but it's a cheap, readily available header, it is what it is and you usually get what you pay for.
This is a better articulation of "sucks".

Basically, it's fine. You need to cut and re-weld. If you were going to get into it all anyhow, I'd probably suggest bracing it but again... for $100... who cares? Plus then you can relive that scene from Fast & Furious 1 where his laptop says danger to manifold and then for some unknown reason all of the nuts come unthreaded and his floor comes out?

It was a very realistic film.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
This is a better articulation of "sucks".

Basically, it's fine. You need to cut and re-weld. If you were going to get into it all anyhow, I'd probably suggest bracing it but again... for $100... who cares? Plus then you can relive that scene from Fast & Furious 1 where his laptop says danger to manifold and then for some unknown reason all of the nuts come unthreaded and his floor comes out?

It was a very realistic film.
I just assumed he was going so darn fast that the floor flew off and was coincidental with the manifold danger.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:31 PM   #7
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I am currently running one with an adapter plate on top and a T3/T4, my hood doesn't close all the way so the hood is quite mangled on that side to make it latch...
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:42 PM   #8
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^ Nothing on your car works right haha
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:19 PM   #9
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^ Nothing on your car works right haha
True! Slowly but surely. Not even surely haha
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:26 PM   #10
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True! Slowly but surely. Not even surely haha
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:48 PM   #11
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I went ahead and bought the ebay manifold. One of my teammates can weld stainless on his TIG, so we will reverse the flange and maybe add a brace. SO, considering we are after dependability before all out boost, do you guys think the TD04 is the way to go? They are certainly plentiful! Also, we are currently running an RSI NA cam, how will that be with the turbo?
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:04 PM   #12
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Would give a low end grunt like it probably does, and give good mid range. May or may not run out of steam. Only speculation. Would have to test it and see how it works out.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:10 PM   #13
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We always ran T3's in our 240 lemon. No water lines, no problem. They're a bit beefier than the TD04. We broke a turbine shaft once, but generally didn't have turbo issues...unless you count the wastegate actuator vibrating loose and we lost boost pressure. Turbo was reliable once rebuilt. Probably around a dozen races with a Turbo on the side of our B230F.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:53 PM   #14
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Towery and/or any of you other racecar peeps. It would be super nice for you to write up a how to and what realistic things/costs looked like. I know it's kinda dumb, and the info is KIND of out there... but it's still never as easy as it seems.
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:26 AM   #15
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I don't think there's any point to putting that header on if there's a td04 sitting on top of it.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotankshane View Post
I don't think there's any point to putting that header on if there's a td04 sitting on top of it.
We would use a stock manifold if it fit. The only reason we need this header is to hold the turbo up high for clearance (and if there is a performance gain, that would be nice too!)
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
Towery and/or any of you other racecar peeps. It would be super nice for you to write up a how to and what realistic things/costs looked like. I know it's kinda dumb, and the info is KIND of out there... but it's still never as easy as it seems.
Make an educated guess, then multiply by 10.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:05 PM   #18
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Right but whats the path of least resistance?
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:15 PM   #19
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Don't forget with the ebay turbo header flipped and welded then the one runner is real close to the water pump inlet. Better figure that out also.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:23 AM   #20
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Don't forget with the ebay turbo header flipped and welded then the one runner is real close to the water pump inlet. Better figure that out also.
Forgot about this, I have an intricate setup of zip ties holding my water pump inlet hose about 1/4 of an inch away (air is the best insulator). Also had to use zip ties to hold the top power steering hose away from the header as well. Might give the hoses a 1 or 2 layer wrap in that mirrored duct tape to try and reflect some of the heat away. I’ve heard it’s better to have a thin space of air than to say wrap the header and have it touch.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:51 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by maxitoman007 View Post
Forgot about this, I have an intricate setup of zip ties holding my water pump inlet hose about 1/4 of an inch away (air is the best insulator). Also had to use zip ties to hold the top power steering hose away from the header as well. Might give the hoses a 1 or 2 layer wrap in that mirrored duct tape to try and reflect some of the heat away. Iíve heard itís better to have a thin space of air than to say wrap the header and have it touch.
Mine melted my ps pump line...i have mine wrapped
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:03 PM   #22
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I insulated the w/p hose, hasn't ever been an issue.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:03 PM   #23
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Sounds like expensive stainless scrap metal to me...
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi a stock can support?

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Old 12-07-2017, 03:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
Right but whats the path of least resistance?
Cheapest/easiest way into Lemons racing is to do an arrive and drive with an established team. You get to race and not worry about building a car and transporting it or prepping it. Teams typically charge $500-$600 for the weekend. This includes race fees, fuel, etc.

The next step is to buy an established car. There was a 780 turbo Lemons car for only $1500 a while back. This is great deal because you will easily have twice that into a car if you build it yourself.

Plan on at least $600 for personal safety gear if you can share a hans device with your teammates.

For a team of 4, other costs are roughly per person:
Fuel $50-$75 per race
Tires $50 per race (we get 2-3 races out of a set of tires)
Misc Parts $100 per race (my team is constantly upgrading and fixing stuff)
Entry Fee $330 per race

So, not cheap, but compared to other racing it is a deal for the amount of seat time.

Last edited by alfavs.volvo; 12-07-2017 at 03:22 PM..
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:53 PM   #25
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why not use the NA exhaust main and make a set of "J pipes", lets you put the turbo right where you want it.
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