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Rally 740 setups?

S

slowboost744

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2012
Location
Greer, Sc
Hey all,
I'm picking up a 91 744 tic for a winter/daily driver. My current 88 is slammed and I wanted to go the other direction with this next one.
Has anyone here set up a 744 for offroad/rally driving?
If so what suspension setups do you have?
I've seen the "slammed to lifted" thread, I don't need to do hardcore backwoods stuff involving 30" tires, just good ground clearance for some knobby 205-65-15's and good travel for dirt roads/snow.
Show me what you got!
 
Eh, honestly not a lot. I'm not going to be professionally rallying it. And coilovers are way over what I want to spend. Just wondering if wagon springs, or springs from another vehicle will retain a high ride height, but not be so mushy.
 
Do you have a dollar figure in mind? You have got the attention of someone that can steer you in the right direction (JohnV), but it would give him better insight if there were a price tag attached.
 
I would say 0-500 for suspension. Perhaps more eventually, just not all at once.
Already planned on dual sway bars and bilstein shocks. Just stumped on springs.
On a side note, I would also love to see fog light bars and setups, I would like to run 4 6-7" round fogs, and possibly have them on they're own removable bar.
 
slowboost744 said:
Eh, honestly not a lot. I'm not going to be professionally rallying it. And coilovers are way over what I want to spend. Just wondering if wagon springs, or springs from another vehicle will retain a high ride height, but not be so mushy.
Click to expand...

There are no professionals in rally in North America...just a few guys who spend a lot to beat a few guys building cars in their garages.

Good luck.
 
slowboost744 said:
I would say 0-500 for suspension. Perhaps more eventually, just not all at once.
Already planned on dual sway bars NO and bilstein shocks. ONLY IF REVALVED Just stumped on springs.
On a side note, I would also love to see fog light bars and setups, I would like to run 4 6-7" round fogs, and possibly have them on they're own removable bar.
Click to expand...

No you are stumped on more than springs..
To play on loose surfaces its Springs and dampers first, swaybars full soft or not used..
 
stylngle2003 said:
i agree with John, you do not want swaybars off road. you need to let the car transfer weight to get bite
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Especially on snow...From one point of view rally on gravel and snow is more or tles the same problem and solutions as skiing on snow: you have to get weight on the outside front wheel or you ain't turning. Just what we do to shift the weight differs.
 
Gotta love dynamic friction :nod: On gravel, it is much more effective to throw the car sideways, use the sidewalls of the tires as one part of the braking force, and feather the brakes for the other part of the braking force ? then you?re using the tires in two directions simultaneously, and you?re misaligning the rear wheels from the fronts as you slide so that they get more bite on a fresh surface too. Rally guys don?t just slide around to look cool ? sliding is, among other things, an effective traction tool under conditions of dynamic friction.
 
So basically the stock setup is going to work out ok?
Are NA sway bars thinner? It's just new territory to me, anything other than ultra stiff and low feels wrong. Lol.
 
I actually have some graphite Hydras with meaty 205 55 16 General Arctics that are kinda close to what size you want.

My 242 is setup as your describing but for rallycross. Easy setup for you will be Billy HDs all around with 200# 10-12" springs up front and 13" 150# in the back. Kyote style coilovers in the front and Ben's adjustable setup in the back. Cheap, reliable and fairly simple.
 
No rear sway bar maybe. The more weight transfer you can get for the "bite", the better. I know barely anything about it, besides the physics involved. JohnV been doing this longer than I've been alive. 30+ years, so he knows a lil sumthin.
 
slowboost744 said:
So basically the stock setup is going to work out ok?
Are NA sway bars thinner? It's just new territory to me, anything other than ultra stiff and low feels wrong. Lol.
Click to expand...


Yeah it FEELS funny but like skiing and sometimes on good twusty asphalt--very rarely on tracks but occasionally in mountains, you feel the car 'settle in" or as I call it "hunker down" in the corners so the driving becomes, just like turning in skiing a series of weight--unweight, weight, un weight..

The things that are important then is brakes and steering--those are what you use to shift the weight around mostly...

Grip for acceleration comes from the voids in the tire, cornering stability and initial bite from the square shoulders of the tires and the side block element gap...

We really do want a completely different winter set up than the rest of the year..When I was in Boston I was going to Canadfa for some Nationals and I crawled on hands and knees to dig out shocks that I knew had rolled under a cabinett..
Shocks pulled off a street car as worn out..They worked great at -2- to -40
 
Fitzy said:
I actually have some graphite Hydras with meaty 205 55 16 General Arctics that are kinda close to what size you want.

My 242 is setup as your describing but for rallycross. Easy setup for you will be Billy HDs all around with 200# 10-12" springs up front and 13" 150# in the back. Kyote style coilovers in the front and Ben's adjustable setup in the back. Cheap, reliable and fairly simple.
Click to expand...


I guess coil bind doesn't concern you.
 
That makes sense. Instead of "floating" on dirt with a stiff setup, you want the suspension to "mush" into it, thus having the tire dig its way out, making for better cornering ability.
My girlfriends wrx is totally stiff on the dirt, no roll at all. I guess I had in my head that was the correct way.
 
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