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Old 11-11-2018, 07:09 PM   #1
vwblue1967
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Default Schrader valve fuel pressure testing

1993 244

Im having a poorly running, stalling, no start, runs perfect for 500 miles then won't start issue.

I'm not sure what all can be that intermittent with the fuel system but I believe it's time to test the fuel pressure. The Bentley manual doesn't mention the Schrader valve and the pressure gauge with the 90degree angle from IPD shows it doesn't fit my car (maybe not accurate). My car has the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and one in-between the tank and main pump.

I've never used one of these valves before and can't find too much info on them. My question is, how do you test the pressure? Is that a cap on a valve you can see? Do you twist the cap off and screw a fitting on it?

I've swapped relays, fuel filter, main pump, (in tank pump in the mail), power stage, CPS, coolant temp sensor.. and lots of other parts in the last two years. I tested the IAC valve and cleaned it. Checked grounds and connections. It will run as it always has then randomly freak out and stall or not start. Off and on randomly. My last 4 tanks of gas we're 25-26 mpg...not great but not bad for a 240.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:22 PM   #2
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Also have code 1-1-3 which I believe to be too lean or too rich.
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:58 AM   #3
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Borrow or run down to Harbor Freight to get a fuel pressure test kit. When you have this kit in front of you you'll see how the test fitting connects to the schrader valve.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:54 AM   #4
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Don't know about the Harbor Freight kit, but you need a special 90 degree fitting that is not part of most other kits. They sure put it in a tough place.

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Old 11-12-2018, 01:20 PM   #5
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Im planning on going to HF today. The one they have (Pittsburgh something) says on the box fits most FI except Bosch. It also looks like it has flexible hoses but I'm not sure if it will fit.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:34 PM   #6
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Harbor Freight's kit doesn't have the 90° fitting.

The reason iPd says the kit won't fit your car is because 240's didn't come with a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Your car must have a later fuel rail so iPd's kit should work.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:17 PM   #7
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Now it's not wanting to start... well sputter and run for a second then shut off.

Can you still test the fuel pressure from just cranking it? Or should it be running?
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:24 PM   #8
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You can test the pressure without the engine running by bypassing the fuel pump relay.

Here's a link to Art's page on testing pumps and bypassing the relay.

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
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Old 11-17-2018, 11:38 AM   #9
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I bought the harbor freight kit and with it's flexible hose, I didn't have a problem hooking it up.

I tested with the car not running and got 41psi.

Car running with the regulator plugged about 44psi

And with it running and the regulator hooked up around 39psi.

And letting it sit it's holding the pressure pretty good. I'm guessing the fuel pressure is not the problem then. I wouldn't think the O2 sensor would make the car run this bad but I guess that's next.
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:21 PM   #10
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A bad O2 will not affect starting.

Check/unplug AFM?

Check coolant temp sensor & circuit?
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:48 PM   #11
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It started fine today but hardly idled. The plugs looked black so I'm guessing it's running too rich.
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:52 PM   #12
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When it's running, unplugging the AMM makes it shut off. I already replaced the coolant temp sensor too.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:06 PM   #13
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Shotgunning a coolant sensor is not a valid test, it only verifies both sensors are in the same state.

You should check the resistance of the sensor and that is in spec for the temp.
Then verify that same resistance is present at the ECU and there is no continuity to ground.

Shotgunning a AFM is the only way as there is no simple way to test one, but you can check continuity to the ECU.
It supplies the ECU with 2 signals air flow and air temp.

You can test O2 function by grounding the O2 signal and alternately supplying a signal by grabbing the O2 signal wire with one hand and the + battery post with the other and watch for a corresponding change in fueling.

Check fuel pressure regulator for leakage to the vacuum side.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:32 PM   #14
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Did you check the spark plug gap? .028". The last car I looked at with random stalling had plugs with gaps that ranged from .036-.042". Not good.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:37 PM   #15
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What is shotgunning? I tested the coolant Temp sensor after putting it in the freezer and at room temp. I believe the one I had was fine but went ahead and replaced it since I had a new... tested both outside of the car.

I guess I need to check things at the ecu. I believe the Bentley manual has specs to check.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:40 PM   #16
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I want to say I checked the spark plugs when I installed them but that was a probably a year ago. Wouldn't hurt to make sure.
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:46 PM   #17
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If they are copper plugs and they are a year old. Then they are worn out. The alcohol seems to wear plugs faster.

There are three temp specs to check in the Bentley. You check at the ecu connector. Check cold. a warm engine, and then fully up to temp. I've had sensors that fail when hot but are good when cold and warm. So be sure to check at all three temps. The ignition computer also uses the same sensor with the same spec for testing.
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:52 AM   #18
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Here's a translation of the resistance at the ECT to voltage seen at the ECU.

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Old 11-28-2018, 03:16 AM   #19
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You said fuel pressure didn't change when the FPR was unplugged vs not? Sounds like you have a bad FPR. You listed a bunch of stuff but not the FPR. Probably flooding at idle. Also if you run it like that long enough you'll have a melted/plugged cat...
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:15 PM   #20
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I didn't know IPD had that fuel guage kit with 90 degree fitting until I read this thread. I have one coming in the mail now.

My guess is you have a crank sensor failing. Go wiggle it with the engine running and see what happens.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arsenix View Post
You said fuel pressure didn't change when the FPR was unplugged vs not? Sounds like you have a bad FPR. You listed a bunch of stuff but not the FPR. Probably flooding at idle. Also if you run it like that long enough you'll have a melted/plugged cat...

I mentioned 3 different psi readings from only pumps running, running with the regulator plugged and running with the regulator hooked up. From what I can remember, they seemed where they should be.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I didn't know IPD had that fuel guage kit with 90 degree fitting until I read this thread. I have one coming in the mail now.

My guess is you have a crank sensor failing. Go wiggle it with the engine running and see what happens.


I thought about buying one but the harbor freight one worked fine.

The crank sensor that came in the car worked. I replaced it a couple of years ok so I'd have a spare. I replaced the newer one because it seemed like it could be the problem but didn't make a difference.

Im trying to swap the injectors (cleaned with new seals) next. I checked the injectors were firing by the diagnostic box already. After that replacing the plugs. I just read they should be replaced every 30k in one of the manuals.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:06 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Then verify that same resistance is present at the ECU and there is no continuity to ground.

Shotgunning a AFM is the only way as there is no simple way to test one, but you can check continuity to the ECU.
It supplies the ECU with 2 signals air flow and air temp.

You can test O2 function by grounding the O2 signal and alternately supplying a signal by grabbing the O2 signal wire with one hand and the + battery post with the other and watch for a corresponding change in fueling.

.


Wtf
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