Temp faker board bypass question.

Another thing to consider is the design of the water pump impeller.

dl242gt said:

From what I recall the gauge itself is calibrated by bending the pointer so it aims at the calibration mark on the face of the gauge. if the car is running at a good temp. I don't see why you can't bend the pointer to where you feel more comfortable like at nine o'clock.

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I think the "bending" gets done from behind, and rather than matching a gauge to a sender, the "special tool" resistor should be the calibration standard (68 ohms) so that a crusty sender doesn't wind up the new reference. Make sure the stabilized gauge voltage sticks at 10.0 over all alternator loads.

In this image, you can see the rest position and the "gain" are separately adjustable through an access hole in the rear of the gauge by moving the toothed platform with a small screwdriver.

Thanks for correcting my fuzzy memory Art!

I've still got one of those "faker" boards, brand new, with no future in my stable...

Who wants it?

Tested the cluster which was deprived from its holy faker board. 100 ohm test brought the needle at a veery close position to 9 o'clock. Just a hair bit lower, so it should be just perfect when driving around. No calibration was needed.

graph paper

northNH said:

I've still got one of those "faker" boards, brand new, with no future in my stable...

Who wants it?

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