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Old 11-11-2011, 05:47 PM   #26
volvogeek
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I love this. I want to do it on a 240 but I'm having trouble figuring out how to actuate the vacuum valve.

edit: perhaps via the foot button? who uses the foot button when the AC is on? Nobody likes cold feet.

Last edited by volvogeek; 11-11-2011 at 07:29 PM..
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvogeek View Post
I love this. I want to do it on a 240 but I'm having trouble figuring out how to actuate the vacuum valve.
you need a heat/vent/fan control panel out of a 73' 140 (or other market 240), the heat/cold adjustment were vacume operated, not cable like the 74 140 and all US market 240's. i just went and looked to see if i have any left, but can't find one, maybe check with redwood chair or jimjmorris to see if they still have any.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:27 PM   #28
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Hmm, really? I'll have to check into that. I didn't realize the 73 and 74 differed on that little detail, but that's very good to know!
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:33 AM   #29
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Mine control valve just broke changing hoses so I think i'm going to try this. To clarify the two ports furthest from the vacuum bulb go inline of the lower return line, the two ports closest to the vacuum bulb go in the upper supply line (stock location), correct? Were you able to use stock hoses, or did you have to buy some random bends to make it work? The stock valve sits with the port running vertically while this one it appears you have installed so they sit horizontally. Makes sense to T into the return line, but I assume you need to get a little more creative with the supply? Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:24 AM   #30
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You are correct on the installation direction. There's also a flow direction, should be marked on the valve, that'll need to go the same way as the stock one. You can run the factory hoses just fine, but you will need to cut out about 1.5" from the lower one to make room for the valve.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:25 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryc View Post
So some basics that I think I gleaned; use this valve, GrpA the holes in the head, use a Hepu pump, and for a low/mid hp DD all will be fine, forever. That about right?
If you're gonna use a Hepu pump, buy all Volvo seals.... the top seal provided croaks within one year.


....of course, Hepu pump plus Volvo seals is more or less equal to Volvo pump in cost.

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Old 02-03-2012, 11:31 AM   #32
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Any idea what sorta car/vehicle this valve "goes" to? Pretty slick!

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Old 02-03-2012, 02:56 PM   #33
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Posted up over on Brickspeed...

Quote:
It's a GM part

Make Model Year Notes
Chevrolet Astro 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 FRONT VALVE
GMC Safari 1990 FRONT
GMC Safari 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 FRONT VALVE
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:27 PM   #34
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So I just did this, had to hack up the hoses a little but it worked out nicely. The one thing I noticed though, was that it made no sense to install the valve with the flow of the coolant running the direction of the flow arrow on the valve. Installed that way it will act exactly like the stock valve, stopping flow at the valve. You have to install it backwards, so when the heat is off, it allows the flow of coolant to recirc as intended.

In looking at your install pics, you appear to have it in the same way I do (correctly) but the flow arrow is actually pointing towards the passenger side (not drivers side.) Not sure how exactly this is plumbed into the GMCs it was intended for, but clearly different for our application.

Thanks again for posting this, very glad I found it!

Ryan
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:16 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvoist View Post
Thumbs up!!
When mine blew and i replaced it with this IIRC.

http://www.truckerac.com/heater-valv...4az418495.html
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:06 AM   #36
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Just installed one of these on mine today.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:51 AM   #37
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Eliminated mine after it blew a couple years ago. ('87 745)
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:18 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by mels View Post
Eliminated mine after it blew a couple years ago. ('87 745)
I considered this, but I didn't want hot air blowing in on the highway, also my AC still works, so I didnt want to make that less effective either. So far the 4 port valve works as the 2 port for climate control, and I would imagine the pressure the valve is under is a lot less since and the back of the head has got to be cooler. We'll see how long it lasts.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:25 AM   #39
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I found about a 20* drop in temps on the back of the head, with a much more even temp spread vs. the stock valve (hooray for IR thermometers). Also the constant flow should allow for less pressure buildup.

Glad this thing seems to be getting out there a little more. Just about a year on mine, still doing well.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:28 AM   #40
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The only problem I ran into is the ports seem to be a bit bigger than 5/8". I didnt measure them, but it was MUCH harder to get the heater hose on the ports of the new valve than the old valve. It kinda gets in the way of my trans dip stick too, but not too bad. I probably just didn't cut enough hose off the return line.

Overall, Thumbsup. Anything is better than the ****ty valve that was in there. THat thing popping was an annual occurance.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:38 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lando View Post
I considered this, but I didn't want hot air blowing in on the highway, also my AC still works, so I didnt want to make that less effective either. So far the 4 port valve works as the 2 port for climate control, and I would imagine the pressure the valve is under is a lot less since and the back of the head has got to be cooler. We'll see how long it lasts.
Was a concern when I eliminated it, however as long as my temperature control is slid to the left, I find I have no heat blowing at all - in any mode (floor face windshield, A/C or vent)
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:41 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mels View Post
Was a concern when I eliminated it, however as long as my temperature control is slid to the left, I find I have no heat blowing at all - in any mode (floor face windshield, A/C or vent)
Mine is one of those fancy auto units. It allows small amounts of air through all vents on the highway.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:30 AM   #43
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Do these have a manufacturer name somewhere, or at least country of origin?

I finally found the GM AC Delco version, it's part number AC15-5543. Not sure if there's the same junk vs OEM dichotomy in the GM parts world that appears to be in the Volvo world. Sadly, I finally found the right number after ordering the Motorcraft YG-136 replacement valve - though it might not be a problem for me as I'm more of a "Rolls Royce style" driver.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:48 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by saq View Post
Do these have a manufacturer name somewhere, or at least country of origin?

I finally found the GM AC Delco version, it's part number AC15-5543. Not sure if there's the same junk vs OEM dichotomy in the GM parts world that appears to be in the Volvo world. Sadly, I finally found the right number after ordering the Motorcraft YG-136 replacement valve - though it might not be a problem for me as I'm more of a "Rolls Royce style" driver.
It's a Balkamp unit. I didn't look to see where it was made. The balkamp radiator cap I got was made in germany, and the radiator hoses were made in australia.
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:08 PM   #45
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Don't recall where mine was made either, came out of the Balkamp catalog as well.

Also just found, not sure if it's the same valve, came stock, or what, by an early 90's Explorer had the same style valve, looked like 5/8 ports on all 4. Looks like it's a Balkamp 6601294, which shows 4 5/8" ports, but I haven't been able to figure out the operation of it. Sells for $19.99 from Napa though.

Last edited by gsellstr; 08-31-2012 at 01:23 PM..
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:12 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Mine is one of those fancy auto units. It allows small amounts of air through all vents on the highway.
Oh, right on. My now gone '87 765 had that auto climate control. Hats off to you for finding a better replacement part for those who need it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:12 PM   #47
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Just picked up this NAPA valve (660-1357). Still only $34.

Should be fairly obvious to the installer the the blocked port (nearest the plated actuator crank) goes TO the heater core....top line IIRC from the BB information.

Looking forward to keeping that hot water flowing thru the head at all times. Gary, yours still working AOK after 1.5 years?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:22 PM   #48
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Yup, not a hint of trouble thus far.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:40 PM   #49
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Bump



Just installed this, works great so far, install was a PITA because of my giant intake manifold, a nathan intake would make life so much easier.

Everyone should do this on their 7/9, I shall update the 944 with this in the coming months
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:52 PM   #50
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About to finally hook up the heater in my 740 (with SBC) this should work most excellent, thanks
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