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Old 12-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #51
gsellstr
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Enjoy!

Still rocking on my car since I did this write-up. Heater output still sucks with the alum. core, but it was worse without this valve.

Damn 28* weather....
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:02 PM   #52
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Rock-on - Thanks for update
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:20 PM   #53
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FYI: NAPA 660-1357 is the front heater valve for 90-95 Chevy Astro Van and GMC Safari Van.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:30 PM   #54
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Dammit lummert....j/k

Thought I'd put that in the first post waaaay back, apparently not. Engage edit mode....
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:23 PM   #55
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I am still not understanding the function of that valve. After mine broke I replaced the hoses to the core and did not put a replacement back in yet. It was -10F this morning and the heater ran great and warmed up quickly.

I can see a marginal increase in how fast the coolant warms up without the heater core in the circuit, but is that all it does?

The new valve is a huge improvement as everyone I know with a 7xx had that original valve break at a horrible time, but is the work involved absolutely worth the effort?
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:53 PM   #56
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Quote:
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Dammit lummert....j/k

Thought I'd put that in the first post waaaay back, apparently not. Engage edit mode....
Yeah, I guess you did.
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Old 12-06-2013, 09:30 PM   #57
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the extra effort is simply cutting the other hose as well, so not much. this valve allows coolant to flow from the back of the head back up to the water pump when closed which aids the cylinder head cooling. when open it allows greater flow thru the heater core for better heat output.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:40 AM   #58
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i should do this while my head is off when i check why im running on 3 cylinders.. lol
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:07 AM   #59
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Dammit! I just replaced mine with the ****ty all plastic mushroom valve the parts stores carry (not OE style).
I've noticed the heater in the 745 isn't anywhere near as hot as the 242.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:27 AM   #60
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on my 91 940 i just tied the valve open...it keeps everything flowing and the heat still turns completely off when you spin it to the cold position on the dial, just cold blows through the vents
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:07 AM   #61
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But it doesn't blow COMPLETELY cold, which is an issue for those of us who live in climates that need AC during the summer. The 7/9 use a blend door setup for temp control with an on/off heater valve, where the 240's use a TXV, and the 850's run a constant flow setup. Tying the valve open is an option, though it still doesn't flow as much even at wide open as the GM valve does, simply by design.

Aside from that, the GM valve seems to be made of much better plastic (never thought I'd see the day when I wrote that phrase).
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:58 AM   #62
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Hey, GM have a ton of experience with plastic.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:39 AM   #63
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GM builds cars base on 80% plastic :P
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
But it doesn't blow COMPLETELY cold, which is an issue for those of us who live in climates that need AC during the summer.
Ah hah! Something just clicked.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:18 AM   #65
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Garyyyy, Garyyyy, Garyyy.....
Thanks! just put this in, actually Bret did, and it worked! A bit of a fuss to fit it all in but it does go and works.

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Old 01-04-2014, 02:24 AM   #66
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Cool, another one on the road. Should see a little better heat now and AC come summertime. Enjoy!
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:18 PM   #67
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I'm having issues where I'm losing a bit of coolant (having to refill the overflow tank) and then the heat gets cold when at stop lights but blows fine when moving. I think my control valve is fubared. Looks like it's been working for everyone else I'll try this and maybe it'll help.

Thanks for the write up Gary!
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:35 PM   #68
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Quote:
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Just picked up this NAPA valve (660-1357). Still only $34.

Should be fairly obvious to the installer the the blocked port (nearest the plated actuator crank) goes TO the heater core....top line IIRC from the BB information.

Looking forward to keeping that hot water flowing thru the head at all times. Gary, yours still working AOK after 1.5 years?
Well have had this for a year now...and I'm staring down the heater core R&R on my 9 series. This NAPA valve is going in at the same time. Just got to get my T8 lighting installed in my front bay on the shop, and this task is next. Will post some pics once installed....can't wait to get some heat in the old Swede, as it was 5*F here yesterday (that's DAMN cold for the Atlanta area).
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:29 PM   #69
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Today was the day! I've gutted the dash of my 940 to get the friggin' heater core out. Cleaned out the obstructions in the area of the heater core connections, and after measuring, cutting hoses, the NAPA valve is in! I"ll get my pics loaded up and add them to this post. The male ends of the NAPA valve are sure bigger than the Volvo hoses...they go on, but it's tight.

NOTE - the 94 Volvo control valve I removed was normally open (no vacuum). I've installed the NAPA control valve the same way. Without a vacuum signal from the climate control system, the coolant will be flowing thru the heater core. Vacuum on the NAPA valve will block the inlet to the heater core, and bypass the head flow back to the waterpump return pipe. As someone noted early in this thread, the control valve may be closing the flow during MAX AC. I won't know for sure until I test mine to see what conditions are actuating the valve.

Top pic shows the valve closed by vacuum signal:

[IMG][/IMG]

Nice clean install, looks OE:

[IMG][/IMG]

View showing the auto dipsticks installed, no clearance issue:

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by DET17; 02-16-2014 at 10:51 PM..
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:18 PM   #70
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You are correct, they do default to normally open, with vacuum closing them, same for the earlier ones, but vacuum is applied once the car is running and providing vacuum to the system. That way if you have no vacuum due to a line issue or something the default will allow for flow, and your vents will default to defrost.

Glad it's in!
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:30 PM   #71
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ok so now it appears the heater core is leaking. If so this means my 93, 94, and 95 all have failed.
This one is the 94 with the Astro valve. So question; does this valve bypass the core so that if I don't use the heat, I can drive the car without doing anything else? til I get time to fix it.
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:11 AM   #72
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You will still have coolant pressurizing the core, just not flowing with the Astro valve. It simply directs flow either to return to the pump or thru to the core, but even when it's 'closed' so no coolant flows to the core, the other side will still have pressure. Time to install a bypass hose...
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:42 AM   #73
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Dang. Thanks Gary.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:43 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
You are correct, they do default to normally open, with vacuum closing them, same for the earlier ones, but vacuum is applied once the car is running and providing vacuum to the system. That way if you have no vacuum due to a line issue or something the default will allow for flow, and your vents will default to defrost.

Glad it's in!
Gary, my valve didn't actuate until I turned the AC on MAX (temp set at the bottom CLICK). The my climate control applied vacuum and it bypassed the heat core (matrix for UKers). However, when I switched the AC off, and returned to cool vent it stayed BYPASSED. Only when I shift the heat control to HOT did it remove the vacuum signal and the coolant again flowed thru the core.

It works! Putting my core back on the road this week and I'll report if any deficiencies.

Jerry, I just went to heater core hell and back....hope to GOD I never make that trip again. I'll have some pics up in my build thread soon.....what a job!
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:41 AM   #75
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Pretty awesome. Thanks
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