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Old 08-06-2020, 11:01 AM   #26
bmdubya1198
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Yup, I'll check today. I'm hoping to see better numbers than before, but we shall see!

Oh yeah, there's a ton of info, it's just a matter of using the right wording to search, as well as talking to the right people. Unfortunately this forum isn't as active as it used to be.
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Old 08-06-2020, 11:59 AM   #27
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This sounds a bit like there may be compounding problems:

1) The compression in #1 relative to the others is no good. It doesn't seem to fit as a cause of your symptoms, however.

2) If your fuel pump primes to only 20 lbs and bleeds off to zero after 30-45 seconds, that sounds to me like a bad fuel pump check valve, leaky injectors, and perhaps(?) a bad main pump.

When you say it has no power off idle and then clears up, does it have no power "smoothly", or is it like a misfire?

How about I armchair QB this thing and say you have a bad #1 injector that's washing the cylinder. When you run your compression test, the cylinder walls are clean and it's reading lower. It would explain the fuel pressure readings, and the crap running.

But hey, I'm 1000 miles from you. What do I know?

Is there any funny business about this car/engine that might help?
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:12 PM   #28
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Nothing odd that I know of. Your theory makes sense though. Like I said, I’m gonna do another test today and see if the low compression still exists.

It’s smooth, but I also have a “hiccup” that occasionally happens on acceleration once I’m already driving. It’ll start off real sluggish, then pick up power and it feels fine. Then if I punch it while moving, it’ll feel like a misfire and then pick right back up.
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:24 PM   #29
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Compression tested it cold today... pretty much the same numbers as before. Looks like the compression issue is probably ring-related, as I originally suspected. Oh well!

Compression numbers were
1- 112
2- 154
3- 157
4- 162

As for the rough idle, I'm thinking replacing both of the fuel pumps should take care of the rough idle and hesitation. Low pressure pump is on the way, I'll probably go ahead and order a main pump shortly.
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Old 08-07-2020, 04:34 PM   #30
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Plugs look pretty good too, surprisingly. These are brand new BKR7ES.
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:06 PM   #31
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I would be interested to see RUNNING COMPRESSION numbers.

It kinda sounds like you are misfiring. I would make sure a good cap and rotor are on there. And good plug wires that are snapped onto the plug well. I recommend BOUGICORD wires.

You could also do a CYLINDER DROP TEST. Unplug an injector one at at time and see if the idle changes. If no change, you found the hole with the problem.
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:43 PM   #32
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I’ll have to try a running compression test.

I tried that, idle dropped about the same when I unplugged each injector. No worse with #1 unplugged than any other cylinder.

Cap and rotor are definitely good though, I just swapped a brand new cap on with no difference. The old Bosch one doesn’t look bad either. Wires are STI rather than Bougicord, but I’ve used them before and they’re pretty good quality. I get a nice solid click onto the plugs and the cap.
I’ve also tried multiple ignition coils with no perceivable difference.
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Old 08-08-2020, 03:23 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoestring View Post
1) The compression in #1 relative to the others is no good.

... say you have a bad #1 injector that's washing the cylinder. When you run your compression test, the cylinder walls are clean and it's reading lower.
Have you diagnosed, or swapped #1 injector to another cylinder for a comparison ?

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Old 08-08-2020, 10:39 AM   #34
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Have you diagnosed, or swapped #1 injector to another cylinder for a comparison ?

I'm PRETTY sure I kept them in order when I swapped the rail, but I honestly don't remember. If not, that will be my next step.
Main fuel pump came in this morning, so I'll swap that out today. Lift pump will be here tomorrow. Between the two, I'm hoping that will at least fix my low power issue, if not my rough idle that started this whole thread.
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:25 PM   #35
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I replaced both fuel pumps, as well as the sock and check valve today, and it runs exactly the same. I finally drove it around for an extended period of time, and it doesn't really have any issues in the higher end, but accelerating from a stop is where it stumbles and is a real slouch.

Any other ideas? I swapped over a spare MAF sensor and that made no difference either. I think the only thing I haven't cleaned/checked/replaced is the O2 sensor, and I don't know that it could cause that much of a problem.

Maybe the throttle switch? Does that do anything beyond sending idle/WOT signals to the ECU? It clicks as it should when opening the throttle.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:18 AM   #36
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A few issues I've had with 240's

a) faulty connections/corrosion/grounds/vacuum leaks
b) faulty FSR(Fuel pump relay)
c) failing/ed Power Stage
d) failing/ed fuel pump/s
e) distributor cap internal crack(not visible)
f) faulty plug wires
g) plugged cat
h) bad/old fuel or failed coil(cars in non-ideal storage conditions)
i) bad IAV/IAVC on a 2.2 caused a high idle

Did you diagnose a possible leaky injector scenario, swap or injector flow test ?



Last edited by Otto Mattik; 08-11-2020 at 05:29 AM..
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Old 08-11-2020, 11:28 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
A few issues I've had with 240's

a) faulty connections/corrosion/grounds/vacuum leaks
b) faulty FSR(Fuel pump relay)
c) failing/ed Power Stage
d) failing/ed fuel pump/s
e) distributor cap internal crack(not visible)
f) faulty plug wires
g) plugged cat
h) bad/old fuel or failed coil(cars in non-ideal storage conditions)
i) bad IAV/IAVC on a 2.2 caused a high idle

Did you diagnose a possible leaky injector scenario, swap or injector flow test ?


I can't rule out a plugged up cat, but I'm getting plenty of exhaust out of the back just from putting my hand there.
I swapped over a spare power stage, no difference.
I can pull out the idle air again, but I cleaned it when I got the car and was initially trying to diagnose this issue. I might try to swap over a spare ignition coil.

It's really weird though, because although the rough idle has been here since I bought it, there was never a problem with hesitation otherwise. And like I said, once I get moving, it runs fine. The boost gauge is steady and it has no problem revving out to 6k RPM. It's only in the low end that it "hiccups" once it finally gets moving.

I have not swapped the injector/s yet, but I may go ahead and swap my spare blues in today. Either that or grab a set of green tops currently sitting at the junkyard.
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Old 08-11-2020, 01:04 PM   #38
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Put a vac gauge on it.

Are the valves adjusted?
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Old 08-11-2020, 01:37 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Put a vac gauge on it.

Are the valves adjusted?
Valves are properly adjusted, yes. I'll try another gauge, but my boost gauge is bouncing around 12 in-hg.
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Old 08-11-2020, 09:28 PM   #40
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Swapped out the injectors for another set of green tops, no difference at all. The hesitation is still there. Ugh... this is getting annoying!

Could the neutral safety switch cause any problems? I'm just thinking, since my friend pointed out last week that my reverse lights didn't work. After checking the fuse and probing the reverse light bulbs, I believe the neutral safety switch has failed. IIRC, it provides a signal to the ECU to raise the idle in P and N.

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Old 08-12-2020, 01:40 PM   #41
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Auto? Brake stand it and load it up good and see it it misses.

What's the running compression?
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Old 08-12-2020, 08:06 PM   #42
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Auto? Brake stand it and load it up good and see it it misses.

What's the running compression?
I still need to do a running compression test. I'll try these things tomorrow.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:16 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmdubya1198 View Post
Swapped out the injectors for another set of green tops, no difference at all. The hesitation is still there. Ugh... this is getting annoying!

Could the neutral safety switch cause any problems? I'm just thinking, since my friend pointed out last week that my reverse lights didn't work. After checking the fuse and probing the reverse light bulbs, I believe the neutral safety switch has failed. IIRC, it provides a signal to the ECU to raise the idle in P and N.
Neutral safety switch prevents the starter from engaging if the position of the switch is not in either Park or Neutral. Afaik your idle will not be affected by a failed switch(had it happen on a 240 and it didn't affect idle).
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Old 08-13-2020, 12:01 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
Neutral safety switch prevents the starter from engaging if the position of the switch is not in either Park or Neutral. Afaik your idle will not be affected by a failed switch(had it happen on a 240 and it didn't affect idle).
Ok, just making sure.
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:17 PM   #45
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Does anyone know if the IACV is supposed to move freely like other valves I've seen? When I took it out to inspect, it feels like it has a spring to hold it in place. My spare from my 240 (which is pretty gummed up) does the same. Seems pretty odd.
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:41 PM   #46
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Don't think the IACV is the issue... I cleaned out another spare I found since it was in even better shape, and it seems to move easily enough. After driving it, I noticed the hesitation/sluggishness is up until around 3000 RPM. After that, it seems to accelerate normally. I tried shifting it manually from L to see if it's actually starting in a high gear (I knew that wasn't the problem), and that didn't change anything.

I checked the fuel pressure again though, and it looks much better. Primed to 40 PSI (or something like that, don't remember exactly) and idled right around 37 PSI. When I pulled the vacuum line from the regulator, it went to 42 and stayed perfectly steady.

I'll try a running compression test tomorrow and see what happens. I loaded it up on the brakes, and it didn't miss... seemed to run fine.
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Old 08-13-2020, 10:29 PM   #47
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After driving it, I noticed the hesitation/sluggishness is up until around 3000 RPM.
This happened to me once when my spark plug cables failed internally. There was no visible sign they were bad, but replacing them fixed the problem. Did you already try swapping those out?
I hear there's supposed to be some type of heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the spark plugs, but those are long gone on my car.
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Old 08-13-2020, 11:31 PM   #48
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This happened to me once when my spark plug cables failed internally. There was no visible sign they were bad, but replacing them fixed the problem. Did you already try swapping those out?
I hear there's supposed to be some type of heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the spark plugs, but those are long gone on my car.
Interesting. I replaced my wires not too long ago (less than 3k miles), but I guess it's possible that one of them is bad. I got them from FCP, so I could always replace them under warranty.

There are 3 heat shields that attach on the exhaust manifold. All of mine are there. I'm sure it's not too uncommon for them to rust apart and fall off.
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Old 08-13-2020, 11:55 PM   #49
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When I had the problem, it was on a set that was only a few months old. I use Duralast wires. I'm not sure if FCP's have any difference in quality control. It's happened to me more than once, so I have to assume some wires are just duds.
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Old 08-14-2020, 12:57 AM   #50
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When I had the problem, it was on a set that was only a few months old. I use Duralast wires. I'm not sure if FCP's have any difference in quality control. It's happened to me more than once, so I have to assume some wires are just duds.
Huh, that's interesting. I went with the STI wires from FCP. I know Bougicord is the choice for these cars, but I haven't heard anything bad about the STI brand for them.
Hell, for all I know they were DOA and have just been getting even worse.
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