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Old 08-30-2020, 08:22 PM   #26
MasterBlaster
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Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
What in the heck is happening here?

The proper tool for the stripped bolt is a turbo socket.

https://www.amazon.com/M%C3%A1ximum-...05298090&psc=1
Hope he has better luck than some of the buyers there...




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Old 08-30-2020, 08:25 PM   #27
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We use Snap-On ones at the shop, I was just trying to offer a lower cost option.
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Old 08-30-2020, 08:50 PM   #28
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We use Snap-On ones at the shop, I was just trying to offer a lower cost option.
Oh, poop.
$34.95 for 13 sockets vs $69 for just one (Blue Point)?
I know which option I'd go for.
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Old 08-30-2020, 09:11 PM   #29
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Lol, ya, they are a bit salty unfortunately
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Old 08-30-2020, 09:38 PM   #30
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I'm for the biggest set of vise grips you can find. Set for the absolute, one time only, Hail Mary, amount of muscle you can muster to lock them. Make sure the vise grips are facing the right direction and apply a 3 ft. section of water pipe. Be sure to protect your hands and elbows for when something gives.

I had to remove the pan once on my '81. Lifting the engine with 4x4s and chain. Then dropping the cross member. I had the green manuals but the specified "undue the pan and twist it" just would not work for me. It was a dirty, greasy, nightmare.

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Old 08-31-2020, 12:53 AM   #31
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The bolt head is already too stripped for me to actually get it off. A wrench + hammer just resulted in the wrench falling off.

Even in your blurry photo it actually doesn't look that bad-- did you try a 6-point socket as was suggested at least a couple of times? (4 times).
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Old 08-31-2020, 03:17 AM   #32
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Even in your blurry photo it actually doesn't look that bad-- did you try a 6-point socket as was suggested at least a couple of times? (4 times).
It's still a gamble if he can't get underneath to look at it while turning the bolt. At least for me, I've never had any luck going at a stuck bolt blind. Just how low is the 144 that it can't be jacked up sufficiently?
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Old 08-31-2020, 11:05 AM   #33
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Pipe Wrench /thread
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Old 08-31-2020, 11:44 AM   #34
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It's still a gamble if he can't get underneath to look at it while turning the bolt. At least for me, I've never had any luck going at a stuck bolt blind. Just how low is the 144 that it can't be jacked up sufficiently?
It's not jacking the car up that I'm worried about here - it's the getting-underneath-it part.
There's a lot of rust under the car, and I'm afraid of bashing myself against something and ending up in the ER.


This isn't in the pan area, but you get the idea.

I think at least for now I've solved the problem with the vacuum pump. It's not ideal by any stretch, but I appear to have drained most of the oil out so I can actually top it off again for the first-time startup.

EDIT: Plus, if the threads are gacked on the drain plug, I might be better off leaving it in there to prevent a) an oil leak and b) prevent me needing to replace the pan, which would involve pulling the engine. If I was able to do that, I'd have done it a long time ago. Just don't have much space in the garage.
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Will you do $14.99 shipped?
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please no more prying things with screwdrivers and bashing things with hammers!
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Old 08-31-2020, 12:50 PM   #35
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It's not jacking the car up that I'm worried about here - it's the getting-underneath-it part.
There's a lot of rust under the car, and I'm afraid of bashing myself against something and ending up in the ER.


This isn't in the pan area, but you get the idea.

I think at least for now I've solved the problem with the vacuum pump. It's not ideal by any stretch, but I appear to have drained most of the oil out so I can actually top it off again for the first-time startup.

EDIT: Plus, if the threads are gacked on the drain plug, I might be better off leaving it in there to prevent a) an oil leak and b) prevent me needing to replace the pan, which would involve pulling the engine. If I was able to do that, I'd have done it a long time ago. Just don't have much space in the garage.
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That car looks like more rust than metal.
I see why you can't jack it up, no metal to put jack under.
leave the plug in, there is nothing to be gained by cracking pandora's plug
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Old 09-01-2020, 04:08 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
It's not jacking the car up that I'm worried about here - it's the getting-underneath-it part.
There's a lot of rust under the car, and I'm afraid of bashing myself against something and ending up in the ER.


This isn't in the pan area, but you get the idea.

I think at least for now I've solved the problem with the vacuum pump. It's not ideal by any stretch, but I appear to have drained most of the oil out so I can actually top it off again for the first-time startup.

EDIT: Plus, if the threads are gacked on the drain plug, I might be better off leaving it in there to prevent a) an oil leak and b) prevent me needing to replace the pan, which would involve pulling the engine. If I was able to do that, I'd have done it a long time ago. Just don't have much space in the garage.
Even with the body rust, there has to enough solid frame and cross-member to use for a jack points, or the car won't even be driveable. Use the cars frame to lift and safely support it(put a piece of wood in between if you're concerned). If a wrench doesn't work there are other methods to remove stubborn bolts.

You'll want to remove the old plug, and if the threads are stripped, you can try chasing the threads(several threads on this forum about this), or re-thread to the next size. The idea is, you want to drain the gunk out the bottom of the pan. You shouldn't need to remove the pan to do this next step(you haven't determined if the pan threads are stripped).

* Also it's August, unless you live in Antarctica why work in a cramped garage ?
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Old 09-01-2020, 04:16 AM   #37
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I don't blame him for not wanting to crawl under that mess, but it really should be structurally sound enough to lift a corner. Otherwise it would bend in half the first time it hit a bump.
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:10 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post

* Also it's August, unless you live in Antarctica why work in a cramped garage ?
There isn't really a good way for me to get it out of the garage. Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.

I could try the impact gun, but I'd probably need to find a 6-point socket for it.
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:22 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by MasterBlaster View Post
Oh, poop.
$34.95 for 13 sockets vs $69 for just one (Blue Point)?
I know which option I'd go for.
I have had good luck with Irwin brand extractors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You MUST hammer them on good before you start turning.
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:31 AM   #40
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Man.... That thing is crusty. I'd get that thing towed out of the garage and cut my losses. Either have a shop go over the car to make sure you're not throwing good money after bad, or just find a better candidate to work on once you have a larger (and safer) work space.
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Old 09-01-2020, 05:31 PM   #41
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from the distrib hole?
Front timing cover is off the car.
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Old 09-02-2020, 07:54 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
There isn't really a good way for me to get it out of the garage. Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.

I could try the impact gun, but I'd probably need to find a 6-point socket for it.
Ah, ok..is the driveway near garage fairly level ? I don't have much problem pushing a 140/240 by myself if the brakes aren't seized, and the tires aren't flat(recruit a couple helpers ?).

Curious if the frame rails are solid ?

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Old 09-02-2020, 09:08 AM   #43
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Curious, if this car is such a pile then why change the oil?
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Old 09-02-2020, 02:18 PM   #44
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Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.
I was gonna suggest driving it up on ramps... but, yeah... I guess the engine doesn't run
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:42 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by ovlov760 View Post
I have had good luck with Irwin brand extractors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You MUST hammer them on good before you start turning.
Just throwing in another good word for the Irwin extractors. Used them to get rear differential fill and drain bolts out on my 740. They worked perfectly.
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:29 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
There isn't really a good way for me to get it out of the garage. Handbrake doesn't work and the engine doesn't run.

I could try the impact gun, but I'd probably need to find a 6-point socket for it.
don't count on that engine to pull thaat car out, from the looks of it, those brakes are probably frozen solid.

you need to step back and set a goal, if you can't figure a way to drag this car out, I doubt you up to get it running.


get a trucker chain and pull that heap out of the garage with a pick-em-up truck, then crush it

Last edited by apachechef; 09-03-2020 at 05:38 PM..
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:38 PM   #47
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To everyone recommending 6 point sockets instead of 12, they're stronger, but they don't drive any better, what you want is the face-drive variety with the corners hollowed out and a subtle radius on the edges of the internal flats. These give the *bolt* head or nut much more strength for the socket to ride on.
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:06 AM   #48
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You refer to Flank Drive sockets which is the standard way all new good quality sockets are made. My only 2 cents worth on the oil pan is a 6 point impact socket, preferably mounted onto an impact driver and warm it up first with a torch. Not a driveway fix I'm afraid. At this point I would just replace the pan. You know there was a reason someone glued it in this way, right? Even if you did get it out you are faced with stripped or cracked threads.



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Old 09-18-2020, 10:10 AM   #49
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At this point I would just replace the pan. You know there was a reason someone glued it in this way, right? Even if you did get it out you are faced with stripped or cracked threads.



-L
At this point, it's been long enough that I just ordered a new drain plug and copper washer with all the rest of my parts. Probably going to install it alongside the old one.

If it leaks massively, yeah, I'll be pulling the engine. Just need to figure out the logistics on that one. I'm hoping I'll at least be able to get the car running and moving, so I can get it on a trailer and take it somewhere with more space and/or is on flat ground.

Last edited by fatcatbestcat; 09-18-2020 at 10:17 AM..
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:51 AM   #50
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At this point, it's been long enough that I just ordered a new drain plug and copper washer with all the rest of my parts. Probably going to install it alongside the old one.

If it leaks massively, yeah, I'll be pulling the engine. Just need to figure out the logistics on that one. I'm hoping I'll at least be able to get the car running and moving, so I can get it on a trailer and take it somewhere with more space and/or is on flat ground.
How are you going to install it "alongside" the old one? The pan is thin sheet metal, 20ga maybe, so if you plan on drilling a new hole next to the old one and running a plug into that, dont waste your time. Its not going to work, and will most likely fall out.

Take a propane torch and heat it, grab it with a pipe wrench, give it hell. Better yet, remove the pan, since youve had it open at the front, its probably a good idea anyway.

Removing the pan in the car with just a jack, a couple jack stands, and a couple 2x4 (36-38" long). This isnt rocket surgery. Unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine a tiny bit, strap the engine from up top to the 2x4 laid across the fenders. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the X member, jack up the front end and remove the tires, place the jackstands under the framerails, if youre worried about crumpling something, use another length of 2x4 to spread the load, with the car secured maybe 4-5" up, lower the crossmember as far as you need, pull the pan. Install new pan and be done with it.
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