240 240 Shifter Pin Removal Tip?

So, the bottom bushing in my shifter blew out completely, and I had to replace all the bushings in the assembly. Fought with the shift pin for ages, tried a bunch of different things trying to get it out but just couldn't make it happen. Even got some plate steel and tried to push it out by remaking what I understand is the Volvo tool to remove it, to no avail.

Decided to try disconnecting the shift rod at the transmission end rather than the shifter end. Was a bit finicky but took maybe 5 minutes and then just removed the entire assembly out of the bottom of the car, then hammered on it outside the car.

To anyone struggling with the shift pin: try just disconnecting the whole shift rod. Saved me a whackload of time and headache. Replaced all the bushings and now feels like new

If there's anything that makes this the wrong way to do things, someone please let me know but it seems so much easier.

Did you loosen the set screw?

VB242 said:

Did you loosen the set screw?

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VB242 said:

Did you loosen the set screw?

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Sure did. Removed it entirely.

Also soaked it in PB Blaster several times.

Canadian winters, man.

Yeah it happens. I had mine do that same thing in the 93 wagon. The pin was corroded into place and wouldn't come out. That is a good way to deal with it so you get full access to removing the pin. Make sure you put some anti seize on it when reinstalling so it never happens again.

dl242gt said:

Yeah it happens. I had mine do that same thing in the 93 wagon. The pin was corroded into place and wouldn't come out. That is a good way to deal with it so you get full access to removing the pin. Make sure you put some anti seize on it when reinstalling so it never happens again.

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Very liberally coated with the copper paste. Hopefully that's not one I have to do soon though.

I've had good luck using these K-D #2325 battery terminal pliers to pop the pin out when it gets stuck but I'm in Southern California so rust isn't much of an issue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-K-D-ALLIGATOR-TERMINAL-BATTERY-PLIERS-2325-KD-Used/113027616618?hash=item1a50f88f6a:g:cfIAAOSw9N5bDzNY

Bummer, it looks like they've been discontinued. Other manufacturers make similar tools though.

hiperfauto said:

I've had good luck using these K-D #2325 battery terminal pliers to pop the pin out when it gets stuck but I'm in Southern California so rust isn't much of an issue.

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Ooooo. Yeah that might have worked. I did try some channel locks on it and managed to get pretty good purchase but it just wasn't enough percussive action I think. Used a sledge to get it out once it was out of the car, so not sure if pliers would have done the trick.

My 3lb sledge has paid for itself so many times. Good one!

dl242gt said:

My 3lb sledge has paid for itself so many times. Good one!

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I borrowed a friend's so I'm well in the black!

SnakeRacingCo,

I am suffer getting this pin out too. I am working on a M47 though.
I tried buildling a heat sheild and torching the base of the shift rod and like you could not get any leverage.
Have you ever tried Muriatic Acid to dissolve rust?

I assume the clevis rod comes off like it did for you but can not see how it is fastened, or how I might access it.
I do not have the M47 Green Book and what manuals I have say nothing about it.
The attached image is as close as I get.

Will you provide some insight into the process of disconnecting the rod from the transmission?
- Please add Dos and Don'ts.

Thomas
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

The pin (spindle) is out.
After a slow approach to learn what might happen ... I used muriatic acid and heat.
- I also had modified a lag screw to fit into a drill. By grinding down the head on two sides made something to rapidly tap on the end of the pin. This may have contributed to the acid penetration?

DANGER DANGER: Muriatic Acid is a variant of Hydrocloric acid. Fumes and contact are damaging, and I assume lethal under some conditions. ALSO Muriatic Acid in contact with rust creates explosive hydrogen gas. LOOK IT UP!

- Cut strips of old T-shirt and wrapped the pin between the clevis and base of the shift lever.
- Using a syringe (guessing 18 gauge) apply 100% Muriatic Acid to the cloth until it is saturated and starts to drip. I did this for 6 days until I got to a result. The cloth dissolves and has to be replaced

- On the 6th day I removed the cloth strips, and attempted to twist the pin with channel locks pliers ... it did not budge.
-- dripped 100% muriatic acid on top and around the pin and squirted it into the set screw hole.
-- set a garden hose on mist above the heat shield (tried to upload Pic of heat shield but the website would not take it ??).
-- applied a propane torch directly to the pin ends and between the clevis and base of the shift lever. I saw what appeared to be gas erupting from one end of the pin shooting out maybe 1/8" ... I assume this was hydrogen combustion.
-- attempted to twist the pin with channel locks pliers and it moved.
-- using a metal bar to hold the pin steady on the passenger side and prying between the clevis and base of shift lever with a large screw driver, the pin slid.
-- grabbing the end of the pin and pulling while holding the clevis with my hand the pin slid out with out resistance.

My assumption is over days of saturating around the pin with muriatic acid it worked its way into the gap surrounding the pin at the base of the shift lever. By applying high heat the combustion of hydrogen gas on the binding surfaces removed something or blew out the holding rust.

-- use the syringe to spray the entire clevis and base of shift lever with solution of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid.

--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Well done. I just cut the pin flat against the shifter base. My shifter pin was so seized I still had to use the sledge and a punch to remove the remains of the pin. grabbed another pin and used the shifter again.