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Another LS Swap on a 1990 240

I used the 1987 Corvette radiator with integrated transmission cooler. It is an idea from www.Jagsthatrun.com. It fits perfectly and I picked up this SPAL electric fan unit from a seller on ebay. There were identical looking chinese knockoffs but I opted for the genuine thing. The fan assembly is very hefty. It seemed like it was going to be a good fit but it ended up being more perfect than I had imagined. Fits snugly on either side.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

I bought some home depot aluminum L channel and riveted it to both the radiator support and the fan assembly.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Then clamped it in place to make the brackets from aluminum flat bar.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr
 
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Pinned out the PCM with instructions from www.lt1swap.com. The step by step instructions for the Truck Harness were pretty close. It took about 4 hours but I now have a much better understanding of the inputs the PCM uses. Basically you need to pull out unused circuits from the PCM, Remove unused sensors from harness and label all the wires that connect to the new fuse box or to another external spot (like speedo, tach, OBDII port, etc.

I pulled off and left off all the wire covering so if something doesn't work I wont have to pull it all apart again

I spent tonight extending a few of the remaining wires so I am ready to go when my fuse box parts show up.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Here it is cleaned up a bit and after I re-routed what I could to reduce clutter in the Volvo bay.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

These are the wires that don't connect to an engine connector. All the pink and orange wires go to the fuse block and a few of the other colors will too for relay controlled items (fans and fuel pump).

Left over will be:

Tach, OBDII signal, Speedometer output (Hopefully my research is correct; 10,042 pulse per mile sine wave), Check Engine Light, Cruise control Release.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

I think I will be able to wire the cruise control wires from the TAC module to the volvo stalk. That is for a later date. Still have to figure out how to mount the DBW pedal.
 
Power steering pressure line was made by a local hydraulic shop. I took them the GM line and the volvo Line and they made up a new one. <snip>
I'll be honest - I'm surprised you needed to. My Volvo-OE PS line mated up directly, just had to give it a little bit of snake to clear everything. It was an ABS car though - slightly different routing on the metal part near the fitting to go to the pump. I also test-fit the high-side line from an older 76-84 system, but the lack of 270-degree bend made it a worse fit. I did use an early low-pressure line - the lack of metal line at the rack made it easier to snake around.

I'm not sure if the LH2.4 era cruise control stalks are different, but the leads on K-jet/LH2.0 stalks seem to have continuity between each control in weird ways beyond what people on ls1tech describe as "switches that are normally closed that need to be normally open."
 
Just an fyi, you don't want to have your radiator solid mounted like that. That's why every radiator you see in every production car is mounted on rubber mounts. It's prevents electrolysis and stress cracking. Electrolysis is a common problem and it eats radiators
 
I'll be honest - I'm surprised you needed to. My Volvo-OE PS line mated up directly, just had to give it a little bit of snake to clear everything. It was an ABS car though - slightly different routing on the metal part near the fitting to go to the pump. I also test-fit the high-side line from an older 76-84 system, but the lack of 270-degree bend made it a worse fit. I did use an early low-pressure line - the lack of metal line at the rack made it easier to snake around.

The Volvo power steering line would have bolted up but it sealed with a flange and the gm factory line sealed with an o-ring
 
Just an fyi, you don't want to have your radiator solid mounted like that. That's why every radiator you see in every production car is mounted on rubber mounts. It's prevents electrolysis and stress cracking. Electrolysis is a common problem and it eats radiators

The bottom of the radiator rests on the factory rubber mounts. Mabee I should use plastic fasteners and a rubber grommet to isolate my "L" brackets
 
Drive By Wire Pedal Mounting

Fabbed up the old envoy pedal. First problem was that the envoy pedal had a jog/dogleg thing that needed to be straightened out. Then it was not the right angle. v-cut, bent and welded the envoy pedal to fit. Then we made this bracket out of flat bar and L channel.

image by ttownthomas, on Flickrimage by ttownthomas, on Flickr
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
IMG_4314 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
IMG_4316 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
IMG_4315 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
 
I had to re-order some connectors for the fuse block. They come in tomorrow so I think I will be able to start hooking up the harness this weekend.
 
Classy!

I pretty much did what Texas240 did, only with my adjustable-style GMT360 pedal (and I've got a spare non-adjustable one, now :p). You'll be running years ahead of me!
 
Classy!

I pretty much did what Texas240 did, only with my adjustable-style GMT360 pedal (and I've got a spare non-adjustable one, now :p). You'll be running years ahead of me!


Thanks. I followed Texas 240's lead too. I'm hoping to be running by the end of may. I still need to do the intake tube, exhaust, driveshaft and finish the electrical. Then it will be on to getting all the little stuff fixed. This thing needed alot of work when i got it. Sunroof doesn't work, trim missing, super dirty interior, needs new carpet etc.
 
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