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Old 10-10-2017, 08:53 PM   #1
soclosenotnear
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Default Contemplating a rear main seal

1990 740 turbo aw71

My brother and I are trying to solve his rather large oil leak. We have meticulously cleaned the engine bay to try and track this down. We also changed the oil separator box for Volvo oe. Verified all pcv hoses are clear and even the small brass nipple.

After these efforts, he is still having to add a half quart every other day or so. He noticed a slight wetness around the box and also under the distributor. But then dry all around it, so couldn't be the major source.

Every time the car is parked, a small pool forms under where the engine and transmission meets. Has to be the rear main seal, yes? Oil pan gasket isn't great, but dry on the sump. I imagine this leak is likely worse under boost when he's driving and that's when the oil loss really happens. But it leaks even with the car off(?).

I've never pulled an auto trans in my life, but how much harder than an m46/m47 could it be. But that is a last resort so we are just trying to verify.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:15 PM   #2
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I don't have experience pulling an auto trans, but I am guessing that it is indeed your RMS. It could also be your front crank seal weeping and the oil will run along the pass side of the oil pan / block seam and drip at the block / trans junction.

I had a similar situation and a new RMS took care of a majority of the leak, but there is still a small drip that originates at the front crank seal. Worth checking that out as well.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:22 PM   #3
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You can pull the 6 bolts for the inspection plate. Use a small mirror and look at the seal. It probably leaking. Use a genuine Volvo seal and set it a little deeper than the old one. Have fun. I’ve done more than enough for a lifetime. Your going that far you may want to do bell housing orings and front pump seal. Check the bolts for the rear seal plate
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:23 AM   #4
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You can pull the 6 bolts for the inspection plate. Use a small mirror and look at the seal. It probably leaking. Use a genuine Volvo seal and set it a little deeper than the old one. Have fun. I’ve done more than enough for a lifetime. Your going that far you may want to do bell housing orings and front pump seal. Check the bolts for the rear seal plate
Never done the bell housing stuff, usually not needed and if they're not leaking, I wouldn't mess with them. The rest of it though, dead on.

Pull the inspection cover (2 bolts into the BH, 4 into the block), take a look at the seal. ONLY use an OEM seal. I've tried a few different brands, none of them really lasted where the OE is still dry after a few years.
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:55 AM   #5
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Never used this myself but thought I'd share this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTT0sejhoOQ
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:13 AM   #6
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^ You don't want to go all Scotty Kilmer on your brothers car...
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soclosenotnear View Post
1990 740 turbo aw71

My brother and I are trying to solve his rather large oil leak. We have meticulously cleaned the engine bay to try and track this down. We also changed the oil separator box for Volvo oe. Verified all pcv hoses are clear and even the small brass nipple.

After these efforts, he is still having to add a half quart every other day or so. He noticed a slight wetness around the box and also under the distributor. But then dry all around it, so couldn't be the major source.

Every time the car is parked, a small pool forms under where the engine and transmission meets. Has to be the rear main seal, yes? Oil pan gasket isn't great, but dry on the sump. I imagine this leak is likely worse under boost when he's driving and that's when the oil loss really happens. But it leaks even with the car off(?).

I've never pulled an auto trans in my life, but how much harder than an m46/m47 could it be. But that is a last resort so we are just trying to verify.
All good advice about the use of OE rear seals only (I learned too late after foolishly buying the red colored aftermarket....always a slow drip). I must ask, is he running Dino oil or synthetic? I've seen several Saabs in the family that converted to synthetic, began to leak profusely. Both were converted back to Dino oil, and the leakage diminished significantly.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:30 PM   #8
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That's the car. I wasn't trying to beat a dead horse with the tranny question, I just wanted to clarify since there seemed to be some variance of thought on that but yes, I've decided to leave it alone and search elsewhere. Better safe than sorry. Thanks again for your time and input, everyone.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordmaschine View Post
^ You don't want to go all Scotty Kilmer on your brothers car...
Yup. See what the other guy says about stop leaks.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76GpMD4LIwY&t=337s
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:25 PM   #10
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Hey everyone and thank you for all the good advice. I am the brother with the large oil leak, I've been filling it with 10w-30 castrol gtx, but after some reading I was thinking about 10w-40 with seal conditioner or what not. Being hopeful that the thicker oil and addiditives would seal it up.

I'm putting it on a lift in the next hour and I should be able to give a definitive answer after that. If it does end up looking for sure to be the RMS I will pull the inspection plate

But one question that I just can't seem to word right on Google...on the intake manifold there is three small brass nipples where the snall pcv hose go, the wastegate actuator hose, and the boost gauge? If I'm thinking right...now me and my bro pulled the nipples off the ensure they weren't blocked. And all of then we're clear, but the one nipple that the pcv line goes to has only a small pinhole where the threads are, it's not oil crap, it's made with a tiny hole while the others are wide open. The vacuum diagram says I have the hoses on the right nipples, but my question is what the heck is the smaller one for? And where exactly does it go
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #11
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And could the small pin hole be causing pressure build up?
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:03 PM   #12
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What's wrong with Scotty Kilmer?

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Old 10-11-2017, 07:26 PM   #13
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Okay, so I just got it off the lift and found exciting maybe but unexpected things... So the sump is wet coming from under the box on the left side of the engine is wet the right side is soaked all over the starter and onto the sump and it looks like it's coming from the rear main? There is a forever drop of oil staying right underneath the distributor rear cam seal I'm guessing, another question I have is if it is the rear cam seal, can I lose that much oil out of there? Or does it sound like I have a crankcase ventilation problem? Being that the rear cam seal is at the back of the valve cover where the valves are I can't imagine I'd lose that much oil so quickly, unless it is combined with a whole bunch of other leaks due to PCV problems but we have cleaned all the PCV equipment to no avail, I am lost as of right now I don't know where to turn
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:47 PM   #14
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For those that have the 2.4 system and are considering doing a rms . Make sure you mark the flex plate or you might get to have a rerun. I like to take the first bolt out and then give it a little shot of spray paint. Makes it fool proof to reinstall correctly.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:12 PM   #15
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The seals are notorious for leaking oil. Sounds like a PCV problem
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:52 PM   #16
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For those that have the 2.4 system and are considering doing a rms . Make sure you mark the flex plate or you might get to have a rerun. I like to take the first bolt out and then give it a little shot of spray paint. Makes it fool proof to reinstall correctly.
This.

There is no rear cam seal. You have an o-ring on the distributor.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:25 AM   #17
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Okay, I'm sorry that was what I was referring to... Is it possible to lose that much oil out of the O-ring behind the distributor?

And the PCV problem is very confusing to me we replaced oil separator box with OEM and confirmed that all hoses are clean and clean them out anyways all the brass nipples are clear all hoses are clear is there another part of the PCV system that I'm missing?
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:37 PM   #18
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I helped quell a RMS oil leak in a redblock by using 20W/50 dino oil: the leak went away.

With cold weather coming, time to switch back to 10W/40 to allow proper lube at initial start up, at least that's what I've been lead to believe.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:22 PM   #19
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Try the glove over the oil filler and see if inflates.

And flywheel always goes with gap towards starter at TDC on 2.4.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:27 PM   #20
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I will definitely try the glove over the oil filler when I get home in about an hour, I have tried the oil filler loosening and all it does is vibrate on top of the oil filler hole which I've heard means there's pressure and it's supposed to be sucked down and not move at all but to me that kind of seems far-fetched I'll do the glove / Saran Wrap test and let you guys know
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:49 PM   #21
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I just got done doing a RMS on my auto 245 Classic and let me tell you it wasn't fun!
Sucked!! But she's got a fresh OE RMS in it now and that's why I got the car for $300 so I'm not complaining..
Worth it in the end
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:08 PM   #22
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NbcYou know I got my car from my bro for about 700 in total which was a hell of a deal, we replace the intake manifold and exhaust manifold for an EGR Delete and cold start injector delete... While doing so replace the oil separator box and now I have a hell of a leak that basically puts me in a spot where I can't drive the car at all

I also might add we re replaced the box that we originally replaced with an oem Volvo one with a new o-ring at the bottom and still the leak persists
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:55 AM   #23
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Did you mess with the PCV oil return pipe, by any chance?
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:07 PM   #24
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Not into it at all I cleaned up around where it started at the car has had a very well-maintained history so I really don't think it be that messed up, but I guess there's a chance right?

I have a question about the return hose and the other hole the bigger one that has the O-ring on it what exactly does that do? I know the other one with the hose obviously Returns the oil
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:35 AM   #25
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Okay so I did the glove over the oil filler whole, it did not inflate if anything at try to get sucked into the valve cover so I assume that means I do not have pressure build up
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