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looking for a Megasquirt base tune for a NA b230

megulon-7

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Location
No Pants Island
Can anyone point me in the direction of fuel and spark tables to get started with a warmed over b230 and microsquirt?

step 2: any recommendations for tuners in the greater San Francisco bay area?

Thanks!
 
Using someone else's tune is like sharing used underwear.
You don't know what kind of cooties are in them.

In all the installs I have done I've not had a motor not run on a default tables.
You will need to scale the tables to match your boost level (or lack of).

Print out only the manual pages that apply to your installed hardware.
This will remove any confusing and conflicting info that you won't need for your setup.

I recommend using Extra Firmware and use only the Extra Manual not easydocs or who knows what.
Don't try to tune it without a wideband O2.
Adjust your ReqFuel and VE table first then work on the trims after you have a decent tune on it.
Always get the motor up to operating temp before tuning.

Don't try and tune it if something is wrong or if you are going to change a major component.
Read the Do's & Don't's at the top of the MS2 extra forum.
I highly recommend a MS2 V3.0 over a MicroSquirt if it's not too late
 
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Once you get it started....

Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of these for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor.
You tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to get it to run cold.

To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than tstat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down arrows to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune.)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells).

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

All of the other adjustments use the hot idle settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE
 
Once you get it started....

Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of these for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor.
You tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to get it to run cold.

To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than tstat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down arrows to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune.)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells).

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

All of the other adjustments use the hot idle settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE

This almost seems sticky worthy..... "MS 101 Tuning".

Much of what Rick says sounds familiar....I labored thru on my 70 Malibu fuel only MS2. Clearly he's tuned a couple of engines!
 
also there is a program called dynosim5 engine simulation which give you a good spark table but it asks you a lot of info about your engine
 
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