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Power add ons 78 Volvo 264

Sure there are!

Replace exhaust manifolds on your engine with headers or exhaust manifolds as fitted to '88-'91 Eagle Premier or Dodge Monaco. Adds seat of the pants improvement. No downsides... Except for doing the work.
Next up.... Right at the front of the engine.... The aluminum guy that turns air from the airflow sensor housing to the pair of intake plenums... Remove it.... Have an assistant open throttle wide open. See the spring things on each of the throttle butterflies? Remove throttle butterflies. Mark them for left, right, top. Pair of dikes.... Snip the spring thing off. Solder up the openings. Whizzy wheel them flat. Reinstall being very careful that they are centered. Another seat of the pants improvement.
Give it more ignition timing. Don't make it ping at WOT.
Give it 2-1/2" exhaust stem to stern.
More adventurous? Give it the engine of an Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco for 2975CCs with the even-firing intake, even firing pulses for a smooth idle and 170 Drama free horses. Wanna get really sick and wrong? I have stroked the even firing crankshaft to 79.4mm of stroke. Boresize can be bigger then 93mm. This quickly becomes rediculous. Mine got a turbo for complete broken drivetrain.
 
Harlard said:
I may or may not have seen a shredded 1310 u joint a couple days ago...
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He knows not the concept of mechanical sympathy! Seems it rearranged the coachwork before coming apart. Should have been a difficult set of sounds and sensations to miss well ahead of failure.
 
Pretty sure that was a 1330 u-joint, not a 1310.

John, no vibrations at all before failure. It failed immediately after a 2-3 shift with soft compound tires and some REALLY grippy swept gravel roads.
Front u-joint/trans yoke broke, driveshaft dropped down and started bouncing. When the carrier bearing failed and the front DS departed the car, that's when the rear section of the ds decided to take a few good swings at the tunnel. Just a flesh wound, nothing major.
 
I really love just how much power fresh rallytires happily apply. Most tarmac guys think their junk applies big power. They are wrong. Bwahahahahaha....

So a busted yoke for power. That's a first. That driveshaft was built to live with the 500+lb/ft (11lbs of boost.... I always ran it at 15 lbs) she happily applies at the wheels. Seems she needs stronger.

It's all just flesh wounds. She's had plenty worse!
 
JohnLane said:
I really love just how much power fresh rallytires happily apply. Most tarmac guys think their junk applies big power. They are wrong. Bwahahahahaha....

So a busted yoke for power. That's a first. That driveshaft was built to live with the 500+lb/ft (11lbs of boost.... I always ran it at 15 lbs) she happily applies at the wheels. Seems she needs stronger.

It's all just flesh wounds. She's had plenty worse!
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I broke a yoke on a '70 140 driveshaft after B20 became 2.1 liters IPD street performance cam and well worked head and a new HD clutch, but before the rear diff and 2nd gear on the M40. Although I would love to think it was power, it probably was a frozen u-joint. Of course, it was at a TSD rally in Canada after receiving the route book but before starting the event. :-)

BTW, been watching this thread and thing of what I could be doing to my B280E.
 
man ive been out of this for a while.

first thing is first, make sure your kjet system is at stage 0, nothing like some wonky injectors or flat line pressure o rings to make you scratch your head.
next simple thing is swap out that tired old ignition coil for a pertronix or msd blaster 2 and skip the resistor. you're going to have to play with plug gap but it's a night and day difference. now you can move on to the other stuff and really feel it.

you should also upgrade the intank pump to the one from the 760 turbo, should be standard for any brick.
 
sisu_slay said:
man ive been out of this for a while.

first thing is first, make sure your kjet system is at stage 0, nothing like some wonky injectors or flat line pressure o rings to make you scratch your head.
next simple thing is swap out that tired old ignition coil for a pertronix or msd blaster 2 and skip the resistor. you're going to have to play with plug gap but it's a night and day difference. now you can move on to the other stuff and really feel it.

you should also upgrade the intank pump to the one from the 760 turbo, should be standard for any brick.
Click to expand...

That's right! I used an MSD box and coil when it had K-Ket, then with the carburators. The MSD made a spark that sizzzled and would burn right through paint if a coil wire was left off for testing.

IDA-3 carburators made the hero noise... Lack of supporting mods and a stock engine limited power at the time..
 
JohnLane said:
That's right! I used an MSD box and coil when it had K-Ket, then with the carburators. The MSD made a spark that sizzzled and would burn right through paint if a coil wire was left off for testing.

IDA-3 carburators made the hero noise... Lack of supporting mods and a stock engine limited power at the time..
Click to expand...

John, what gap where you running? with the oem silver plugs and a pertronix, im running around .044. i tried going to the msd coil without changing the gap or bosch box and it ran like junk below 2k rpm, like it was discharging incorrectly. but it ran like stank as soon as you got the revs up. delorean guys were saying somewhere around. 050 to .055
 
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