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Old 05-03-2018, 08:19 PM   #26
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:11 AM   #27
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I have the same symptoms on my 91 turbo 940. I have a high volume in tank pump and eliminated the in line high pressure pump. I do have old injectors, but it either runs fine or it is like a drive by wire car gets the throttle closed to idle while driving. It idles fine, it accepts throttle fine 98% of the time. And I can't get a code 1-3-3 tps idle speed to go away. I've swapped tps with a known good one. I've tested both sensors. I've checked resistance to ground and resistance from tps connector to ecm connector with no problems found. It seems like a throttle position related thing like it only happens from 20%-45% throttle opening. And most of the time I can push the pedal and it will go away, also when it happens and I come to a stop. Idle speed is about 600rpm high unless in gear, then it's like the trans is holding the idle from raising. I've added ground wire directly to battery negative post at various harness ground points with no improvement.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:13 PM   #28
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It was the coil. It was reading 2MOhms when it early stalled on me to today. Swapped in a spare and the problem went away.
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:57 AM   #29
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Nice to hear!
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:16 AM   #30
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Fake news! It stalled on me in nearly the same fashion today about 100 feet from my driveway. If this issue would exist for longer than 5 minutes at a time and was predictably reproduced, I would have solved this in less than an hour. Yet here I am, firing the parts canon with no results. I just received a fuel rail with a schradervalve from Roy today, so once I install that, I can safely go for extended drives with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up. I think I’m going to set up something to monitor a bunch of my ignition and fuel related sensors and try to replicate the problem this weekend.
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:23 AM   #31
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May be worth monitoring primary voltage the coil gets.
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:48 PM   #32
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May be worth monitoring primary voltage the coil gets.
This is a very good idea. Thank you.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:26 PM   #33
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Rig a test light to coil negative to ground and tape it by the wipers. If it stops blinking while running or trying to restart after a stall, then look towards powerstage/another component upstream in the ignition.

Do the same with another test light to the fuel pump power.

Labscope.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:17 PM   #34
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Ever since I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and jumper wires to monitor the primary winding coil voltage the car has run like a champ without issue. I noticed that driving the car hard for about 20 minutes would make it fault considtently. Now that I’m watching it, no issues after an hour at 4K rpms.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:01 PM   #35
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Lando. I'm still in exactly the same boat as you. I swapped amms, powers ages, tps sensor, and coil, still no luck fixing or finding the problem. Mine still hasn't stalled it is fairly consistently surging under steady throttle/cutting power. I'm gonna bypass the oem fuel pump relay with a heavy gauge wire and see if it changes. I have steady voltage to the coil and the power stage. And cps is perfect when graphed on my dvom
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:17 AM   #36
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Your issues sound exactly like a car I worked on a couple of years ago. Turned out to be a bad fuel filter. How old is yours?
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Old 05-24-2018, 01:06 PM   #37
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Did you remove the terminals at the coil? Sometimes this scrapes of some of the fretting and the connection becomes good again.

I would lightly clean terminals and apply dielectric grease.
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Old 05-24-2018, 01:12 PM   #38
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Your issues sound exactly like a car I worked on a couple of years ago. Turned out to be a bad fuel filter. How old is yours?
I replaced it with the main fuel pump about 3 years ago. Probably worth just changing at this point. I swapped to a different fuel rail that has the schrader valve so I could monitor fuel pressure, but it hasn't acted up since then.
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Old 05-24-2018, 01:14 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Did you remove the terminals at the coil? Sometimes this scrapes of some of the fretting and the connection becomes good again.

I would lightly clean terminals and apply dielectric grease.
Terminals are clean, but I noticed they were a tad loose when I changed the coil. I gave them a gentle squeeze with some soft jaw pliers and they are nice and snug now.
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Old 05-24-2018, 05:18 PM   #40
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I don't know if this will help you, but I am fairly sure I fixed my car. After swapping ezk, and looking for bad grounds, powers, vacuum leaks etc finding nothing wrong. I checked my knock sensor and noticed one of the wires to my cold start Injector had backed out of the connector. As soon as I reinstalled the wire into the cold start Injector connector the problem stopped. I don't understand it but it stopped completely.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:59 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wren View Post
Your issues sound exactly like a car I worked on a couple of years ago. Turned out to be a bad fuel filter. How old is yours?
Had the fuel pressure guage hooked up when it ****ed up today. Dropped to below twenty. Now monitoring output from main relay. Bought a new fuel filter, I'll replace that also.
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:34 PM   #42
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Volts on fuse #6 doesn’t drop when the issue occurs. So I’ll change out the fuel filter and the only other possible culprits would be the main pump or wiring to it.

Last edited by Lando; 05-25-2018 at 01:24 AM..
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:46 PM   #43
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Not necessarily. How old is the fuel pressure regulator?

I had one fail similarly on a customers car but the opposite way. The fuel pressure would be fine for quite a while, then jump up to 80 psi suddenly and engine ran like crap. Shut off the engine and restart and it would run normally. The check valve in the regulator was sticking sporadically and sending full pump pressure to the injectors. Perhaps yours is sticking in the open position and returning most of the fuel to the tank.
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:48 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Not necessarily. How old is the fuel pressure regulator?

I had one fail similarly on a customers car but the opposite way. The fuel pressure would be fine for quite a while, then jump up to 80 psi suddenly and engine ran like crap. Shut off the engine and restart and it would run normally. The check valve in the regulator was sticking sporadically and sending full pump pressure to the injectors. Perhaps yours is sticking in the open position and returning most of the fuel to the tank.
It has about 2 hours on it. I had to buy a new one to fit the late style fuel rail with the schrader valve on it. I got a genuine Volvo one from tasca.

I guess it could be pluggage in the in tank pump also, but I'm feeling a lot better have narrowed it down to a few components.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:00 PM   #45
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That pretty much rules out the regulator.

The in tank pump is a good place to look. It seems like they have 2 failure modes as some say they've found dead pumps but the car runs fine and others have problems with fuel delivery. It's like the pump can stop where it will block the flow of fuel or it might not, if that makes sense.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:04 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
That pretty much rules out the regulator.

The in tank pump is a good place to look. It seems like they have 2 failure modes as some say they've found dead pumps but the car runs fine and others have problems with fuel delivery. It's like the pump can stop where it will block the flow of fuel or it might not, if that makes sense.
Just took it for a spin with the chassis-ear clipped to the main pump, no change in operating noise when the issue occurs. I'll change the fuel filter and if I have another occurance, I'll buy an in-tank pump and sock.

Last edited by Lando; 05-25-2018 at 01:25 AM..
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:07 PM   #47
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Overall, I'm a little disappointed in my use of the parts cannon but I don't think it was money wasted. I now have a nice set of NLA spares in a pelican case so I can easily troubleshoot and repair any issues on the road.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:25 AM   #48
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This is what came out of the inlet of the fuel filter:



The main fuel pump is running much quieter. In my experience a fuel filter should last much longer than three years and 35k miles. I must have got some bad gas. Come to think of it, this issue resurfaced shortly after refilling.

I am still baffled by the symptoms. In my experience a plugged filter just makes the car stumble worse and worse until it dies. The intermittentness, temperature dependence and consistent rhythmic power loss threw me for a loop.

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Old 05-25-2018, 08:08 PM   #49
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I think we can close the file on this one. Fuel pressure rock solid at 45psi at 4K Rpms on the freeway, was ~35 and jumped around +-5psi before tanking when the car began to stumble.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:36 PM   #50
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Wow, that's a lot of crud. Are you going to pull the tank and clean it out? The in tank filter must be plugged up too, no?
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