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Old 02-08-2018, 09:34 PM   #1
Jack
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Default 240 with t5 trans shift boot non ghetto solution ?

Stock 240 boot (uncut) on a t5 makes it very hard to get into 2/4/r

I cut mine 3 “rings” up from the bottom and installed a leather boot. Since the shift lever is skinny on t5s I’m getting hot air coming up through the opening. I tried mid 90s mustang boot but that it didn’t work for me.

Anyone got a better solution?
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:44 PM   #2
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What shifter / shift lever are you using?

I have an ebay short shifter with a modified stock Mustang shift lever and am using a stock 240 shift boot and it does not interfere with shifting.

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Old 02-08-2018, 09:46 PM   #3
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Stock shifter and mine does... seem like my trans sits slightly lower than some... using sn98 crossmember with poly trans mount
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:48 PM   #4
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Stock unmodified rubber boot on my T5 as well - with a Steeda Triax shifter. I have a leather Volvo boot cover over that.

To keep noise and heat down I got a cheap foam car washing sponge at WalMart and cut a hole in it, stuffed it down through the hole onto the top of the trans, then put the rubber boot on top of that. I used 4 small bolts to hold the rubber boot in plasce since mine used to have an auto shifter. No problems with it holding it out of either set of gears.
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:16 PM   #5
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^^Similar to what JMc did - I cut a large enough piece of foam to completely cover the opening in the top of the tunnel - put a hole in it and slipped over the shifter and down into the tunnel. And then I cut a similar smaller piece that sits inside the Volvo rubber boot. Cuts way back on noise/heat. B&M quickerripper shifter that doesn't have as much offset as the stock Stang shifter handle -- boot doesn't interfere.

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Old 02-08-2018, 11:31 PM   #6
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Those shifters are so damn low to the floor. I ended up lengthening my pro 5 shifter and using a combination of the rubber gator and some burlap with some sound proofing and insulating material. Then I reused the leather shift cover because this is a classy affair.

I could go into more detail about what I did, but there's probably a better and easier solution.
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:31 PM   #7
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Same here, I used some sound deadening blanket stuff with a foil layer, and I put a few layers in there to block the noise & heat. Works very well.

For the boot, I cut it near the bottom, and I have the leather boot on that. Since the shift lever is skinny, I have a piece of heater hose just below the shift knob. The ID of the hose is a good fit for the lever, and the OD is a good fit for the collar of the leather boot. I have some velcro to keep the leather attached to the piece of hose. I have a Pro 5.0 shifter with a Steeda Tri-Ax handle, so that creates some height to make that all possible. Looking at the height on Mike Yount's picture, I don't think my setup would work there.
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:57 PM   #8
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I have an integral leather boot and shift knob out of a Prelude, it keeps all the hot/cold outside air out. Not sure if the shifter threads are the same as Ford since I have a 300zx T5, they are some kind of metric fine thread maybe 10mm?
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:41 AM   #9
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I cut a few of the accordion folds from the rubber boot and sewed in some canvas and heat reflective tape. I then put a leather cover over it. It worked ok.
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:38 PM   #10
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Here's mine. Took me some experimentation to get it right.

It's a Hurst short throw shifter I bought used with the below Hurst handle that I cut a few inches off the bottom and re-drilled. Then used a Hurst grommet to make it fit perfectly in the stock Volvo boot. Works perfectly and position is absolutely perfect.

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File Type: jpg Hursrt8550med.jpg (115.6 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg hurstshiftergrommetmed.jpg (46.5 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg hurstshifter1med.jpg (127.3 KB, 113 views)
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:31 PM   #11
M.H. Yount
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Dave - does the grommet fit inside the Volvo boot opening?
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:37 PM   #12
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I have the stock shifter and the stock boot on mine. No issues with shifting for me. Other than the usual mustang 3rd gear cock block.
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Dave - does the grommet fit inside the Volvo boot opening?
propav8r made a 3D printed version that fits the Volvo boot. You can download the file here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66503/#files
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:23 PM   #14
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I tried using the stock 240 boot, had the same engagement issues Jack mentioned. Went to a generic Mr. Gasket boot, notched the opening, and put a leather boot over the top. Also put some high density foam on the shift tower to cut down the air/noise a little. Less than idea, still haven't found a better solution. I'm running a Hurst billet tower and lever.

I'm curious why the Volvo boot works for some, not for others.
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:49 PM   #15
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I think it’s due to the height of the trans in the tunnel and the style of shifter/ shift lever used. The height of the trans will affect how close the shift lever gets to the sheet metal cutout in a given gear and if a jogged shift lever is used it will cause the 240 shift boot to bunch up more than a straight one in 2/4/R. A short shifter will obviously lessen the shift lever movement and shift boot “bunching”.
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Old 02-09-2018, 10:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
I'm curious why the Volvo boot works for some, not for others.
Suspect has to do with the wide variety of combinations that occur depending 1) tranny mounting height relative to body and 2) shifter/handle used.

Hiperfauto - thx for link to file - may help someone else. I, on the other hand, not a clue....LOL.
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Dave - does the grommet fit inside the Volvo boot opening?
Yes.
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
I tried using the stock 240 boot, had the same engagement issues Jack mentioned. Went to a generic Mr. Gasket boot, notched the opening, and put a leather boot over the top. Also put some high density foam on the shift tower to cut down the air/noise a little. Less than idea, still haven't found a better solution. I'm running a Hurst billet tower and lever.

I'm curious why the Volvo boot works for some, not for others.
I had this problem after installing speaker wires under the carpet, the tranny (m45....) would pop out of 2 and 4.
Believe it or not, I spun the boot 180 degrees and the problem went away......
Is your boot backwards?
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotSoFresh View Post
I had this problem after installing speaker wires under the carpet, the tranny (m45....) would pop out of 2 and 4.
Believe it or not, I spun the boot 180 degrees and the problem went away......
Is your boot backwards?
I thought about doing this but decided to post here first

I think Im going to work on an updated T5 installation article.
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
I thought about doing this but decided to post here first

I think Im going to work on an updated T5 installation article.
To be honest I never looked if it actually has a front and back, or it had just "settled in" that way. Rubber does get harder over time, It is possible that they take a "set" to where they are installed, and while they may have been able to flex either way equally when new, this is no longer the case.
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Old 02-10-2018, 12:56 AM   #21
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no thats not the problem.

there is a front and back and it orients the hole either forward or backward
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Old 02-10-2018, 01:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
no thats not the problem.

there is a front and back and it orients the hole either forward or backward
That's what she said.
I haven't looked at a boot in ages but it makes sense. The rubber comment is because every other bit in my '79 is rock hard.
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Old 02-10-2018, 03:13 AM   #23
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Nah, I scrapped the 240 boot idea a long time ago.

Jack, still like that crossmember setup now that it's in and everything?
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Old 02-10-2018, 09:36 AM   #24
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The height that the boot sits at on the handle is a factor as well --- if the grommet fits tight to the handle and telescopes the boot/accordion "up", then the layers tend not to collapse onto one another binding things when the handle is in 1/3/5 or 2/4/R. However, too high also makes it "pull" on the shifter from the other direction - so there's a 'sweet spot'. Way too much time spent messing around with mine...

Last edited by M.H. Yount; 02-10-2018 at 09:41 AM..
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