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Put R brakes on my 242, distribution block problem

2turbotoys

2turbotoys

Salaminizer
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Location
Reading pa
Howdy guys and gals,

I installed R brakes on my 242 Saturday. Car is 1979 242 base model. Calipers are from 2006 S60R, Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors, and Akebono pads. Removed rear brake reducer valves, replaced with a set stainless front brake lines from my spare parts hoard. The only parts not replaced were the solid tubing lines necessary for to get from front to back, left to right, and the damn distribution block.
Leaving my friends shop late last night, I hit the brakes to test them at approx 45 mph, car pulled very hard to the left, and didn't slow down very much. Approaching a stoplight, 1 tire locked up hard, also pulling me to the left. A 35 minute drive home turned into an hour of terror, almost no brakes at all.
The original distribution block has the brake failure sensor broken off, and the wire is unplugged, so its a fair guess that this is the problem.
What is the best replacement for this distribution block? I have read a lot of stuff from "I use a 740 one (very vague cause my 740s have all been ABS with no distribution block)" to "take the valve out of an original one but replace the sensor with a plug (no one seems to know the plug size)" I have a new factory replacement block but want some options or opinions.

Thanks!

PS: wanted to include pics but I'm old and used to use Photobucket, whats the best pic sharing thing now?
 
Well I guess I didn't fully understand the stupid 2 brake line system for the front calipers while doing this? Is that what you are getting at? Cause your reply isn't very helpful, and no need to be snarky, I've been here since the late 1990s. I just spend a lot more time in my garage than on my computer. I'm asking for help here, and the search has let me down. The only guide I found for this swap has all the distribution block ports labeled wrong and no real solutions.
 
Yes I used that guide, the ports on the distribution block in that guide are all way different than on my 242, I used alternate 1 so I didn't have to make up new lines. I know now the distribution block valve is bad I was hoping there was another part to use in place of it to use. Something that didn't have the valve in it.
 
There is a distribution block without a warning valve but I don't know why you wouldn't just use the new one you have.
 
The current plan is to use the one I have, but I was hoping for one that didn't have a valve that could go bad. The Dave Barton examples are all wrong about the valving and warning lights. I have a fairly large budget for this project and am not worried about whatever this block cost, I just want one that works without moving parts that could go wrong in the future. it could be a solid block of metal with the correct ports drilled.

Maybe I am not being clear with what I am asking, I am looking for a foolproof distribution block with the correct ports, without a bunch of moving parts that obviously fail. It could be a solid block of steel with the correct holes in it, connected together.

What is this block without warning lights? What does car/year is it?

Am I asking the wrong question? Anyone else who has done this swap school me on what I need here, please.
 
'91- 240's without ABS use the distribution block you want.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?page=article&artno=3540084

The reason I ask is that the warning valve isn't usually a problem if it's not leaking and provides you with an indicator light to let you know when a circuit has failed. The dual diagonal system works so well that you may not know when a circuit has failed. The '91- systems use a float in the master cylinder to detect fluid loss instead of the warning valve. A bad master can bypass without losing fluid and won't illuminate the warning light on these systems.
 
2turbotoys said:
Howdy guys and gals,

I installed R brakes on my 242 Saturday. Car is 1979 242 base model. Calipers are from 2006 S60R, Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors, and Akebono pads. Removed rear brake reducer valves, replaced with a set stainless front brake lines from my spare parts hoard. The only parts not replaced were the solid tubing lines necessary for to get from front to back, left to right, and the damn distribution block.
Leaving my friends shop late last night, I hit the brakes to test them at approx 45 mph, car pulled very hard to the left, and didn't slow down very much. Approaching a stoplight, 1 tire locked up hard, also pulling me to the left. A 35 minute drive home turned into an hour of terror, almost no brakes at all.
The original distribution block has the brake failure sensor broken off, and the wire is unplugged, so its a fair guess that this is the problem.
What is the best replacement for this distribution block? I have read a lot of stuff from "I use a 740 one (very vague cause my 740s have all been ABS with no distribution block)" to "take the valve out of an original one but replace the sensor with a plug (no one seems to know the plug size)" I have a new factory replacement block but want some options or opinions.

Thanks!

PS: wanted to include pics but I'm old and used to use Photobucket, whats the best pic sharing thing now?
Click to expand...

The old style block has a sensor inside the junction block that will set off a light in the dash if there is unequal pressure. Basically if you have a bunch of brake fluid pressure going to the front wheels and let to the back or visa versa it will set off a dash light.

The newer style block does not have this sensor. Instead there is a level sensor in the master cylinder that sets off a dash light if the brake fluid gets too low.

If you already have a new old style block I don't see why you'd need to spend the extra money to get a different one. It sounds like you don't have the brake lines connected into the junction block correctly and/or have the plugs in the right holes.
 
Thanks! The new style block is what I was looking for, a simple junction block. Marvelous maybe we did use the wrong holes, but I think there is something wrong with the old part as well. The previous owner included the new one with the car, and there were multiple problems with the brakes so I am replacing everything except a couple steel lines.
 
2turbotoys said:
The Dave Barton examples are all wrong about the valving and warning lights.
Click to expand...

Ok, I pioneered this conversion in 2003/2004. The setup I used (Alternate 1) worked for every car that did this back then. It worked very well. I have doubts that it's wrong now.

It's frustrating when no one ever steps up to share a better method or what actually worked for THEM. I know this conversion has been done dozens of times since 2004. I saw a number of conversions at Davis this year. So either everyone did it as Alternate 1 like I did and they're scared to admit it, or they're keeping their methods a secret.

How about someone who has actually done this step up and share what worked for them?
Dave B.
 
dbarton said:
Ok, I pioneered this conversion in 2003/2004. The setup I used (Alternate 1) worked for every car that did this back then. It worked very well. I have doubts that it's wrong now.

It's frustrating when no one ever steps up to share a better method or what actually worked for THEM. I know this conversion has been done dozens of times since 2004. I saw a number of conversions at Davis this year. So either everyone did it as Alternate 1 like I did and they're scared to admit it, or they're keeping their methods a secret.

How about someone who has actually done this step up and share what worked for them?
Dave B.
Click to expand...

I've been using the Alternate 1 setup for almost 5 years now. It's what I recommend in my brake kit installation instructions.
 
I used alternate 1 also when I did the Cadillac brakes on the red car. Have been good for um two years now?
 
dbarton, your info was invaluable. the problem I had was the diagram on your website did not match what is in my car. Your website is awesome and very helpful, and I was frustrated when I typed that, please accept my apologies. What I should have thought of is not where the lines go exactly, but which side they went to. I did not realize I was probably creating an unequal pressure in the system.
 
<a href="https://imgur.com/g9Jvr3D"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/g9Jvr3Dm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> Testing a pic, haven't uploaded anything in years. Feel free to make fun of the 70s graphics lol
 
Last edited:
Put an s, m or l just before the .jpg in the address of your image to resize it to small medium or large when using imgur.

This is large.

g9Jvr3Dl.jpg
 
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