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Old 06-26-2014, 02:23 PM   #1
dunnp2
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Default Patrick Dunn's '68 144

I figured I was far enough along to start a build thread. I'm planning to put a B230 into my '68 144, along with a 16v head, turbo, MS3X, GM T5 transmission, and maybe a few other goodies. The plan is for a really nice daily driver, so I'm not shooting for the moon with power and I'm not slamming it to the ground. It'll have plenty of heavy sound deadening and I'd like the exhaust to be fairly quiet. Not very exciting to talk about, but it should still be awesome to drive!

What do you do immediately after moving from New England to the Pacific Northwest? Buy a clean old Volvo.











Then, of course, you tear it apart!









Here's a piston from the stock engine. Surprisingly it didn't feel like it lost any power, but there was a solid oil cloud coming out from under the hood at every stop light. None of the oil rings were in one piece.









The interior is done enough at this point. I fixed the rust holes, POR-15'd everything, then put down a layer of sound deadening covered by a new carpet and some knockoff ricer seats.



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'68 144 - b230 16vt swap in progress

Last edited by dunnp2; 07-18-2014 at 02:24 PM..
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:29 PM   #2
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The engine I'm swapping in came out of my '92 240. It's getting some sooper bitchin' (R) JVAB pistons and rods, a 16v head, and a turbo.









The head is staying stock except for some Ford 4.6 springs.







I currently have the block assembled and put down the first coat of paint last night.







Updates might be relatively slow because I'm racing mountain bikes starting this weekend. Training almost every day and weekend practice/races tends to suck a fair amount of time. Either way, I'm almost ready to start getting the engine in! Then comes the wiring and tuning...using MS3X. I've never wired an engine or done much tuning (only minor adjustments to my WRX), so that may be a long, painful process.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:32 PM   #3
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I got an introduction to the 3D printer at work and printed a few small parts. One is the clip that holds the sun visor in place, since one of mine pulled off and there's nothing for a screw to hold anymore. The other is a little thumb screw that holds the instrument panel to the back of the dash. One was broken and the gauge cluster flopped around.

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Old 06-26-2014, 06:02 PM   #4
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So awesome!
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:28 AM   #5
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More pics of engine build?
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:03 PM   #6
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I didn't take many, but here's what I have:

Test fit of the DSM CAS with Yoshifab adapter - works perfectly!






My block was from '92 so it didn't have piston oil squirters. JVL got me all set up with these:





Pistons & rods, ready to go in:





There was a mix-up in piston ordering, so I ended up with 8v pistons. Rather than getting new ones, I just rented the jig from yoshifab to cut reliefs. It was pretty stressful cutting into brand new custom pistons, but it worked out. The jig is nice, quick, and easy.







Comparison between Volvo and Ford valve springs. I remember someone mentioning that the Ford springs were lower force/in than Volvo's, I disregarded it until I realized they were longer to make up for it.





Some pictures of the head going on before paint. I bolted the halves together three times before it was done...first before bolting the head to the block (duh), then the second time I used grey RTV so I took it back apart to apply loctite 510.







Here's where I'm at as of last night. Things are getting added to the block, finally!





Also I spent a few hours sandblasting. I'm excited to be done painting stuff.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:34 PM   #7
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sweet!
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:46 PM   #8
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Sweet project, where did the hardware for the oil cooler come from?
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:20 AM   #9
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Is that a 140 oil pan you will be putting on the B230?
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
Sweet project, where did the hardware for the oil cooler come from?
Here's the ebay listing I got it from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201107005044...84.m1439.l2649
Looks like it's a good quality part. I used a little RTV on everything that needs to seal to satisfy my 'ebay knockoff' mistrust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjanson View Post
Is that a 140 oil pan you will be putting on the B230?
Yep. My understanding is that the B230 pan will hit, so you can either sledgehammer it or use the 140 pan to clear the crossmember.

I'm also using a 140 oil pump. I just got the IPD 'heavy duty' one in the mail.

This is all going off of build threads I've looked at, so I'll find out if everything's right when I start bolting it together.

Here's a good resource I'm using:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=196369
I'm going to try and make one post detailing everything specific to mounting a B230 in a 140. I think it's just the oil pan, oil pump, and engine mounts, which can just be plates with holes drilled in them.
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:54 PM   #11
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In the last week I've spent a lot of time to accomplish...not so much. I'll start with the good:

I got a lot of parts painted!





Test fit of intake and exhaust:





And now the bad...

I ran into a bunch of problems at once.

1) 140 oil pump doesn't fit. It wants to sit where the crank sweeps. It's close, so I think I can swing it. I'll slot the mounting holes a little to rotate it out of the way, then grind off a little of the offending metal.

Here are a few close-ups:








2) The nipple for the heater return line (from the cabin) wants to occupy the same space as the nipple for the PCV box. Also the PCV box hits just below the threads for the heater nipple, but that was solved quickly with an angle grinder.

Clearance for PCV box:






I thought a 90* elbow would solve the problem...no luck. It's very close, only a few mm, but in the process I ruined the 90 anyways, so I have a 45* elbow in the mail. I haven't seen anybody else talk about this...is there a solution I'm not aware of?








3) I'm using a Yoshifab DSM CAS adapter and a T-belt kit made by NathaninWA, and they want to be in the same place at the same time. I can attach the CAS, but not rotate it through the slots needed to adjust timing.





So first I cut off a huge chunk of the idler bracket:



But not enough. I refuse to cut any closer to those threads, so I guess I'm cutting off a chunk of that tab.




4) I have a JVAB steel flywheel with a dual pattern so I can start out with my existing volvo transmission/clutch/pressure plate, then swap to a GM T5 (as seen hiding in the picture above) and keep the same flywheel. Because who can live with a heavy flywheel?

JVAB doesn't supply ring gears with the flywheels, so I bought an automatic flexplate (because it was cheaper) thinking it would have the same ring gear and I could just press it off and onto the new flywheel. Unfortunately, no. It turns out the automatic ring gears have a significantly smaller I.D.

Moral of the story...cheaper isn't always cheaper. Or easier.

Since I'm making a push to get the engine in this weekend, and the teeth on this flexplate are in good shape, I decided to enlarge the I.D. to what I need. First, I had to get the rivets out:





Then, since I need about a thou accuracy and the biggest bore gauge that I can use only goes up to 8", I made an extension:



I finished that around 1:30 last night, so no milling the flywheel until tonight. Stay tuned.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:52 AM   #12
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This thread is relevant to my interests. I have read the pre-71 trans tunnel is too tight for a T5 and needs modification, what is your plan for that?
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
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This thread is relevant to my interests. I have read the pre-71 trans tunnel is too tight for a T5 and needs modification, what is your plan for that?
I'm aware of that, so I didn't sound deaden anywhere near the trans tunnel. I'm planning on just cutting and welding where I need to. I've heard of people removing the whole tunnel from the firewall to the rear seat, then getting one from a 240 and welding that in, but that seems excessive to me. It seems like I should be able to remove some sections and weld in sheet metal as a spacer, only where it needs clearance.

But I'll wait and see. That's a project for after the engine is running happily and winter has returned.

...assuming those happen at the same time.
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:31 PM   #14
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Ring gear is mounted. The interference fit ended up being between .005" and .006". That's what I was thinking I needed at the time, but I read a little this morning and found people recommending .020" and .025". Any experts out there know if I'll have a slipping ring gear? I could tack weld this on and have it re-balanced, but I'd like to avoid that if I can...

I did find a few people saying OEM recommendations were .004" to .007", which is making me think I'm fine.

Anyways, here are the pictures to prove it happened:

Here's my custom extender in action. It worked perfectly.




Cutting action shot:




Completed ring gear. There was a lot more material removed that I was expecting.




This whole time, the flywheel was in the freezer. I stuck the ring gear on the lathe and torched it for a while, using the sizzling saliva test to see if it was hot enough.




Then the ring dropped on! It was loose enough to spin for a few seconds, then tightened right up. Pretty cool watching the frost melt away from the edge and evaporate.





Also last night I did a bit more part trimming to make everything fit.

Now I think I'm all set to get the engine in tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:53 PM   #15
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Wow that freezer flywheel interference fit thingy was excellent : subscribed!
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:09 PM   #16
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The b20 wont work on a b230, you have to cut and weld a b230 pump to work. The b20 pump trick only works on b21/23s. Furthermore, throw that late style breather box in the trash and use a b23 one...they don't split apart like those late style boxes do. Also, are you planning on vert mounting the motor? Better be with that pump/pan setup...but you might run into some huge issues with that intake and possibly header.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
The b20 wont work on a b230, you have to cut and weld a b230 pump to work. The b20 pump trick only works on b21/23s. Furthermore, throw that late style breather box in the trash and use a b23 one...they don't split apart like those late style boxes do. Also, are you planning on vert mounting the motor? Better be with that pump/pan setup...but you might run into some huge issues with that intake and possibly header.
I think the b20 pump is going to work. I made a little clearance last night, I'll do a test fit in about an hour. I don't want to trust a welded oil pickup tube if I can avoid it.

I also think this 45* elbow will solve the problem with the breather, that way I can use what I have since it's brand new.

Yes, I'm mounting vertically, and yes, I'm going to have a huge issue with the intake and the brake booster. That's a problem for later. I haven't looked at the header much, but from a glance I think it might be okay.

I'm most likely going to need manual brakes, or look into a remote booster. Someone mentioned that they exist recently, that's as far as I've gotten.
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I'm most likely going to need manual brakes, or look into a remote booster. Someone mentioned that they exist recently, that's as far as I've gotten.
Late 122 wagons had remote boosters on the fender... I have one, but it will need to be "rebuilt" or at least cleaned/flushed... But I'm not certain if there's anything available as far as a rebuild kit.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:10 PM   #19
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Looks great so far!
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Late 122 wagons had remote boosters on the fender... I have one, but it will need to be "rebuilt" or at least cleaned/flushed... But I'm not certain if there's anything available as far as a rebuild kit.
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind.
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:07 PM   #21
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As of a few days ago, the engine is in! It was a bit of a pain to get in, but it happened. I had a buddy helping me, which is good because it's definitely a two person job. We ended up having to drop the transmission to lower the engine in because it was hitting the input shaft, along with the head hitting the flywheel and the oil pan hitting the crossmember. After bolting the engine up we put the transmission back in.

It's a mild annoyance, but I suppose it's not the end of the world. We talked at length about making a new crossmember, which would let me slide the engine forward a little, have better fitting engine mounts (these are a little crooked), incorporate a steering rack into the design, and have more oil pan clearance to slide the engine forward away from the transmission.

But first, the solutions to the problems I mentioned above:

Fitting the DSM CAS with the timing belt idler, I just lopped off the interfering material:






Oil pump hitting the crank, I slotted the mounting holes and filed off the edge (well away from the seal for the tube) of the outlet. I'm mildly concerned with the pump being a little crooked compared to the outlet tube, but I'm less concerned than I would be if I cut and welded the cast aluminum pickup tube of a B230 pump. This way I'll see the pressure (slowly) go down if the oil is leaking past the seal...if a weld breaks and you start sucking in air when you aren't staring at the oil pressure gauge, you have a lot more damage to deal with.






Heater nipple clashing with the PCV box. The 45* elbow worked. For anyone else that's interested, here's a link to the part I used:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#50785k83/=sw5ooc
Just the medium pressure, 45* brass 3/8" NPT elbow from mcmaster, delivered to my desk at work within about 16 hours.

It's still a really tight fit. I used a rubber mallet for the final install, but I could have removed a little more material from the block to solve that.






I bought the wrong clutch alignment tool and wanted it that day, so I made one. I understand you can use the clutch pedal to avoid using a clutch tool, but this took me about 20 minutes.

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Old 07-18-2014, 02:18 PM   #22
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So! On to the main event, getting the engine in. I was using my friend's garage, in a different spot from the car, which was in a different spot from the engine. So, AAA towed my car:






And I loaded the engine into the back of my van:






Then the real fun started. First we had to make some engine mount adapters to get the b230 into the 140.






The top bolt on the 140 engine mount goes to the same spot as the 240 mount, just the bottom two holes are relocated.






Then, as mentioned before, we wrestled and wiggled and ended up pulling the transmission to get the engine in. The engine mounts are far from perfect. The block leans a little to the side and it's pretty hard to get the studs from the rubber bushings to line up with the holes on the chassis mounts. Also, the oil pan is REALLY close to the crossmember.







Maybe eventually I'll get back around to modifying the crossmember for more breathing room, better engine mounts, and a rack & pinion. For now, the engine will be okay to sit where it is. I'm motivated to get the engine spinning and drive the car a bit before doing other major projects that aren't totally necessary.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:43 PM   #23
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Lovely job there!! Can't wait to see it moving!

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Old 11-04-2014, 11:18 AM   #24
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A small update, I've been traveling a lot so not much has gotten done on the car. I did get the header issue figured out though.

The ebay header doesn't work with a vertical engine (at least in a 140). It holds the turbo about 1.5" too high and it hits the hood. Since I was traveling and didn't trust my TIG welding 100%, I had a friend put together a ramhorn style stainless header. It looks pretty awesome, but I don't have a picture. I'll have to upload one when I get home. Currently down in Mississippi for work.

Found a picture of the header going together:






I also moved to a new house, with a my own garage! Before flying out to Mississippi, I got the car moved in and situated, built a work bench, and got organized for work to commence when I get back.

Here's how it's sitting now:






The checklist still has a few major items, some of which can be seen above. I still need:
-wiring/plumbing/hookups
-brakes
-steering
-tuning

That intake design interferes ever so slightly with the steering column, but under driving loads that'll turn into a lot of interference so I'll have to get some u-joints in there.
It also completely fills the space where the brake booster and lines used to be, so I have a reverse-mount dual master pedal waiting to be installed.

Does anybody have good info on redesigning the steering column? The basic need is just adding a kink, but I'd like confidence that it won't crush my face when I hit something.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:26 AM   #25
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This is awesome! You're in Seattle, I hope I get to see this thing around sometime.
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