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Urgh. Overheating 240

ICantDrift said:
:lol: Why lamp wire?
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Lamp or "tinsel" cord has fine gage copper conductors and a soft flexible insulation.

That makes it flexible and easy to bend so that you can force the ends of the cord over the two "pins" where the compensator board is mounted.

The soft elastic covering on the cord makes a tight, pliable connection on the pins after it is pushed over the pins.

I did it on my 92 Model 240, and haven't had a problem yet.
It is truly a lot easier than trying to solder in a jumper in that tight space.

Plus, most people have some old lamp cord laying around.
Us the smallest and most flexible cord that you can find.
You only need a piece about 2" long.

Hope this helps
 
I'm putting my money on a weak water pump..pump belt slipping. If you continue to beat on your car like that you are going to have more problems
 
coalminer said:
Lamp or "tinsel" cord has fine gage copper conductors and a soft flexible insulation.

That makes it flexible and easy to bend so that you can force the ends of the cord over the two "pins" where the compensator board is mounted.

The soft elastic covering on the cord makes a tight, pliable connection on the pins after it is pushed over the pins.

I did it on my 92 Model 240, and haven't had a problem yet.
It is truly a lot easier than trying to solder in a jumper in that tight space.

Plus, most people have some old lamp cord laying around.
Us the smallest and most flexible cord that you can find.
You only need a piece about 2" long.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...
This
/thread
Shifted said:
Why don't you use an infrared thermometer to find out.
Click to expand...
^would normally be my first suggestion. But why not bypass the board and see what your gauge does?
 
speedn_j said:
Right but when that board goes bad the needle is usually just pegged. It's odd that it only gets hot in the 5k rpm range.
Click to expand...

Just a thought. Bosch 55 amp alternator current rises with rpms. 35 amps at 2000 rpm, 48 amps at 3,000 rpm, and 53 amps at 4,000 rpm. I assume higher at 5,000 rpm, but my book only shows to 4,000 rpm. Voltages might grow a bit also. The voltage regulator is supposed to keep the voltage steady, but VRs aren't exact and the voltage stabilizer on the instrument cluster circuit board isn't all that precise.

As others have mentioned, it only takes a few minutes to bypass the temp faker board.
 
ICantDrift said:
Just bypassed the faker board and drove around for a bit. The temp rose to just above half way but stayed there, even after a decent bit of abuse. I think that was my problem but I'll keep an eye on it in the future
Click to expand...

Go hold limiter for 5 seconds or do a burnout.

Either way, neither of those things will cause your motor to get warm. Only after about 45 seconds of 5k rpm burnout did my motor start getting hot.
 
Engage 1st, then drive around for about 45 seconds or so at 25-30 mph while going up a somewhat steep hill. So, high load, high rpm. Check temperature then. Should still be just above midpoint.

-J
 
If you can or even want to, add a VDO temp guage for peace of mind during your years of ownership
 
Sounds like you put in a thermostat that is a bit too hot. I recently had this happen also, routine change of the thermostat, same temp 92C-92C and the old one would hold the needle right in the middle even under heavy load. The New 92C, under heavy load it would get up to 3/4 or 5/8 close to red. went to the Pick N Pull and found and 87C swapped in in and now it is back to middle all the time again... I also like the VDO temp gauge idea and have been gathering some parts for that.
 
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