• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Coilovers: The Kyote Way

Now after the coilovers, quick steer and camber plates I regret not going with the short struts too. FFFFFFFffffffF.

Oh well, that's for this winter I guess.
 
badvlvo said:
Now after the coilovers, quick steer and camber plates I regret not going with the short struts too. FFFFFFFffffffF.

Oh well, that's for this winter I guess.
Click to expand...

Grab some strut housings, cut, and weld. The monroe saab inserts seem to be a really good match to 300lb springs too.

I *might* be bringing an extra set to Davis to sell on teh cheap. :ninja:
Nothing fancy, but a relatively cheap way to do it if you don't have the tools to do so yourself.
 
Streetkarnage said:
anybody got a cheap site to get some saab 900 shocks from? blisten or koni or even stock
Click to expand...

not sure they make the konis for SAAB application, but the koni universal inserts do work, and are much shorter then stock. but need to be run on a relatively firm spring. you can use the single adjustable, but the duals are much better choice.
 
RESURRECTED said:
not sure they make the konis for SAAB application, but the koni universal inserts do work, and are much shorter then stock. but need to be run on a relatively firm spring. you can use the single adjustable, but the duals are much better choice.
Click to expand...


http://www.koni-na.com/Saab.html

also try shox.com

for dirt cheap Saab inserts, I bought some Monroes (?) from the local auto store for about $35 each...
 
towerymt said:
You could also knock the welder out of the list of requirements by leaving a little bit of the stock spring perch for the lower stop. Just buy 5" sleeves. This also guarantees that you don't have any wheel/tire fit issue up front since you wouldn't be adding anything below the stock seat.
Click to expand...

Harking all the way back to the first page I want to expand on this a bit. Super cheapskate way to get adjustable ride height on the front and ability to choose spring rate is to do like Towery says and go 5" sleeves.

Start with stock tubes, carefully cut around the perimeter of the stock perch, just above the weld bead that holds it on. Then you can just tap off the stock perch:

DSC_3277.JPG


DSC_3278.JPG



Leaves you perfectly sized for the 5" sleeves:

DSC_3280.JPG



Little grinding on the tube and the sleeves will slide on and use the stock weld bead as stops:

DSC_3320.JPG


DSC_3319.JPG



Tada:

DSC_3322.JPG



This was using the Coleman 5" x 2.08" I.D. kits found here: http://www.colemanracing.com/Coil-Over-Kit-P4566.aspx. Part #450-501. You'll need qty 2. I used the Summit 2.5" coilover springs found here: http://www.summitracing.com/search/...Summit-Racing-Coil-Over-Springs/?autoview=SKU. They are as each, so order 2 in the height/rate you want.

Total cost is $85.00 for the coilover stuff from Coleman and $70.00/pair for the springs from Summit. So like, $155.00 total in parts :-D
 
Someone may have addressed this already, but after putting mine together it occurred to me that putting grease on the freshly ground strut tube may have been wise, given that it would be in contact with aluminum.
I figure it's not really a big deal (and the sleeves won't come off easily anyways in my case) so I have no plans to go in there to put grease on the strut housing tubes, but has anyone had any trouble with corrosion with this?
 
harribert said:
Are those struts shortened though?
Click to expand...

Nope, those are stock length tubes.

kildea said:
Someone may have addressed this already, but after putting mine together it occurred to me that putting grease on the freshly ground strut tube may have been wise, given that it would be in contact with aluminum.
I figure it's not really a big deal (and the sleeves won't come off easily anyways in my case) so I have no plans to go in there to put grease on the strut housing tubes, but has anyone had any trouble with corrosion with this?
Click to expand...

The same thing occurred to me. I didn't go so far as to grease them, but I did give them a healthy coating of PBlaster before sliding the sleeves on. I ground down the tubes little enough to keep the sleeves being a pretty tight friction fit which I think would help keep the water/contaminants out some. Hopefully the PBlaster coating in there will provide a bit of extra protection :e-shrug: I dunno.
 
Cameron said:
Nope, those are stock length tubes.



The same thing occurred to me. I didn't go so far as to grease them, but I did give them a healthy coating of PBlaster before sliding the sleeves on. I ground down the tubes little enough to keep the sleeves being a pretty tight friction fit which I think would help keep the water/contaminants out some. Hopefully the PBlaster coating in there will provide a bit of extra protection :e-shrug: I dunno.
Click to expand...

I installed my sleeves while the paint was nice and wet, this served a few purposes....the wet paint acted liked a lube, and once dry, it acts like like a sealant/adhesive
 
Mine were a snug fit, so I painted the bare metal with primer and paint and then knocked 'em on. To remove, hit against the lower spring seat with a dead blow plastic coated hammer. I had to replace a tube when I hit a guardrail in '06 and mine came off easily.
 
What stops the spring going all loose when the strut is fully extended? Thats part of the test in the UK and it will not pass unless the springs are secure when the struts are fully extended.

Also, slightly confused as to how the top mount works? Is additional hardware needed or does the "cone shaped" part fit in with the original top mount?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top