• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Whats wrong with my window? Pics

swiggy

----------
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Location
Victoria, BC
So I have taken out this manual window that was non-functional, and it seemed that one of the joints was completely disconnected.

P1040119.JPG

I put them together, using a hammer to knock the pin through, it was fairly tight.

P1040122.JPG

P1040123.JPG

There is nothing holding it in to the arm apart from the tightness of the fit, which isn't very tight, it looks like it would come out again for sure. What parts am I missing? It looks in the greenbook as if there is some sort of spring there, I can't tell what else I should have. It looks to me like I could weld that thing at the back into the arm and it will work just fine, I'm not sure what material its made from, but it feels steel-like..
 
I don't believe there is anything missing there. that is a common mode of failure. It was originally peened on, and you could likely take a ball peen hammer to it to re-fasten it. Be careful to stop before it gets too tight. Lube it up thoroughly and it could last another 20 years.
 
Get a medium sized pointed steel punch and give it a good whack near the end of the four corners so it's in tight enough that it won't move. Also, as the two arms move against each other they need to greased or it will work and get pulled out again, and the same with other pivot points.
 
- SNIP - There is nothing holding it in to the arm apart from the tightness of the fit, which isn't very tight, it looks like it would come out again for sure. What parts am I missing? It looks in the greenbook as if there is some sort of spring there, I can't tell what else I should have. It looks to me like I could weld that thing at the back into the arm and it will work just fine, I'm not sure what material its made from, but it feels steel-like..

two strips of 0.002 shim stock UNDER the arm that yer gonna *peen over*
...smack it up snug...and use a GOOD *clingy GREASE* to lube ALL of the
other pivots ( I use CASTLE ENDURA like THIS:
http://www.castleproducts.ca/Catalog/ShopChems/endura.html
then wiggle the shim stock out and be amazed...
sip cool bevvies....

and the MAGNET SEZ......
 
Thanks guys, sounds like an easy fix then. I'm still tempted to tack on a little bit of weld at the back of that squared pin to make sure it never comes out, is there a reason that I shouldn't do this? Taking the door apart is a pain, I'd like to make sure it stays :nod:

greenbookwindowreg.gif


This diagram it looked like there was a spring (assistance against gravity?). This diagram doesn't quite look like what I have either, it confused me a little, especially trying to mess around with it while it was still inside the door.. Way more obvious once you have the pieces out and can see them..
 
Not easy to find around here, parts car I have access to has power windows. I'm sure I can weld it in place, after peening it using John's/Mick's methods and it will never come off, probably more solid than a JY replacement?
 
Thanks guys, sounds like an easy fix then. I'm still tempted to tack on a little bit of weld at the back of that squared pin to make sure it never comes out, is there a reason that I shouldn't do this? Taking the door apart is a pain, I'd like to make sure it stays :nod:
- SNIP -
This diagram it looked like there was a spring (assistance against gravity?). This diagram doesn't quite look like what I have either, it confused me a little, especially trying to mess around with it while it was still inside the door.. Way more obvious once you have the pieces out and can see them..

the illustration you provided looked a *LOT* like a 140 series mechanism
(and it's been YEARS since I've been inside one of those doors!)

the move to POWER "Winders"made the game even MORE "sillified" if you will...
here is a pic (from a "breakers" site) that shows YOUR mechanism SANS SPRING
used_volvo_240_manual_window_regulator__21900.1354558946.1280.1280.JPG


lots of "early cars" came w/NO "booster spring" because the gear ratio on the
winder mechanism was so low you had to "crank forever" to get them to go up
or down...this is a GOOD THING due to the fact that the window "stuff" is HEAVY
with HIGH RESISTANCE and you increase the TORQUE but sacrifice SPEED

the springs added later allowed for FASTER "up and down speeds" due to the
counter"balancing" TORQUE supplied by the spring (especially in the *UP* mode)
make sense??
1255176.JPG

notice the POWER version has *fully stamped <no holes> "arms" /
a SOLID "gear" and solid mount for the MOTOR that spins at a speed that
makes the "low ration" immaterial as far as the operator is concerned....

hope this helps...!
 
Thanks Mick, I guess I don't need the spring, makes sense to me. I don't see where one would fit on the mechanism I have (identical to the one from the breakers you found), I was just slightly confused by the greenbook diagram, which was a 240 book, not a 140 book. Who knows. Going to put it back together today.
 
Back
Top