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91 Regina 740 No Start

iHateVolvoPeople

Active member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Location
Midwest
Conclusion: Idk. Crank sensor signal was whack. Bolt hole to mount the crank sensor was broken but had never caused an issue. I pulled the crank sensor out of the hole, turned it 90 degrees, pusher it further in, and it started running on all 4 cylinders. Weird volvos man.

Friends car, hasn’t ran for a minute. I hear the fpr click and i hear the pump cycle. Swappped RSR with the fan relay. Pulled cylinder 1 plug, cranked it, got spark. Sprayed brake cleaner in the manifold and it didn’t even try. Cranks very strong. Timing marks are all good. Not sure if the injectors are firing but i figured with brake clean the vehicle should start. Cleaned injector grounds as well.

Bad crank sensor would equate to no spark right?
 
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...1 plug, cranked it, got spark....Bad crank sensor would equate to no spark right?

Correct-O...fuel side issue when spark exists.

On FPR's return side to fuel-tank, the hose can be removed from it. So attach another hose, that's inserted into a bottle, and run fuel pump. Could be plugged fuel filter...
 
Bad crank sensor can still cause a spark-no start. The ignition timing can be way off from a dying sensor.

You have to clear flood first before brake cleaner will work.
 
Bad crank sensor can still cause a spark-no start. The ignition timing can be way off from a dying sensor.

You have to clear flood first before brake cleaner will work.
Crank sensor is new, i know that doesn?t mean it works though. So a crank sensor that has completely failed will cause a no spark no fuel symptom right? I didn?t know that it could cause wonky timing too.
Also some brake cleaner is non-flamable, I use carb cleaner.
He also put some gasoline down the intake and that didn?t help:lol:
 
Radio suppression relay

A google search shows me that a 3-2-1 and 2-2-3 are for IAC signal missing as well as cold start injector signal missing.


If the tachometer is not jumping while cranking (though it did a week or so ago but still no start), is that indicative of a bad ignition coil, or crank sensor, or either?

Also i can hear the RSR when cranking. We jumped the pump with 12v directly, heard it run, and still a crank no start. After cranking for 15 seconds or so, i pulled # plug and it was not soaked in gas. I am now 2 hours away from the car and know the owner is too lazy to test fuel pressure. Maybe he can pick up some actual starting fluid to make sure it will or won’t run off of that.

Forgot to also mention the main filter under the car is also brand new.
 
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A google search shows me that a 3-2-1 and 2-2-3 are for IAC signal missing as well as cold start injector signal missing.


If the tachometer is not jumping while cranking (though it did a week or so ago but still no start), is that indicative of a bad ignition coil, or crank sensor, or either?

I believe that's indicative of a Regina car. :-P
 
He said he?s seen the tachometer jump while cranking before. Idk anything about Regina though so maybe he?s wrong:e-shrug:

I was joking that the no start conditon and intermittent tach are indicative that you have a Regina car, because it?s less robust than the comparable Bosch system.
 
I was joking that the no start conditon and intermittent tach are indicative that you have a Regina car, because it?s less robust than the comparable Bosch system.

Oh yeah it seems to be trash IMO. Lh2.4 was more than capable of satisfying the majority of people, and it?s easy as hell to work on.
 
Tach not moving doesn't mean much. Some are wired that way.

What you need to do is basic diag like using a spark tester for $5, a spare spark if, a timing light, test light, scope, or anything to confirm spark. Timing light would be good for seeing if ti.ing is anywhere near where it should be.

Starting fluid works well too. I just had a truck I diagnosed as bad fuel pump in 5 minutes with brake cleaner. It sure as heck runs with brake cleaner busted into the throttle. No fuel pressure at the Schrader valve either.
 
I was joking...Regina car, because it?s less robust than the comparable Bosch system.

93-940-Rex-I/Regina: 0 ?F with 0w-40 oil....Fires right up, no hesitation.

93-240 requires several crank rotations, before Bosch LH 2.4 engages spark/fuel....in hot/warm/cold weather.
 
Tach not moving doesn't mean much. Some are wired that way.

What you need to do is basic diag like using a spark tester for $5, a spare spark if, a timing light, test light, scope, or anything to confirm spark. Timing light would be good for seeing if ti.ing is anywhere near where it should be.

Starting fluid works well too. I just had a truck I diagnosed as bad fuel pump in 5 minutes with brake cleaner. It sure as heck runs with brake cleaner busted into the throttle. No fuel pressure at the Schrader valve either.
Is pulling a plug, grounding it to strut tower bolt, cranking motor and watching it spark not conclusive enough? I also pulled the coil wire off the dist cap and cranked motor. Saw a very fat spark. I know for a fact at least some spark is going on. Still weirded out that plugs looked almost dry which would indicate a fueling issue, but it still wouldn?t even chuckle with brake clean. I told the owner to go buy some actual starting fluid and we will see if that helps.
All of your grounds are good and clean, right?
I can?t say they ALL are, but i cleaned the injector grounds and valve cover grounds. Did not clean the ones that are on the firewall though:oops:
93-940-Rex-I/Regina: 0 ?F with 0w-40 oil....Fires right up, no hesitation.

93-240 requires several crank rotations, before Bosch LH 2.4 engages spark/fuel....in hot/warm/cold weather.
Sounds like an LH issue, mine are perfect albeit cranking slowly which is normal. They always start first try (lh2.4), B cam idles like **** when cold though but that?s to be expected.
Rex-I Codes - Read from Socket SIX

Regina Codes - Read from Socket TWO
I found Regina codes to be the same according to brickboard 700/900 FAQ. Maybe i should heck again.
 
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