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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Hello everyone, newbie here, please be gentle
![]() Some background info: The ride - 940 sedan, 1996, b200ft, automatic transmission 3-speed + overdrive Condition is mint. Stock all around, with the exception of new Bilstein B4 in all 4 corners. Mainly, this car needs to be able to happily go sideways but also should corner well. No competition stuff, just track/drift days with fellow petrolheads. Also, bricks are completely underated where I live, so I'm hoping to show some example at events, and maybe more people will follow ![]() So, with the exception of of changing tyres per each event, I need to achieve a multi purpose suspension setup, that will serve me well enough for both track and drift events - amateur, no pro/competition stuff. I'm prepared to give up any ride comfort and throw in a couple of bucket seats. Obviously, everything needs to be done on the cheap side, so I'll fab whatever I can, with a grinder and a stick weld. I've read about a lot of suspension mods, here on TB and elsewhere, but I do not know what mods to invest in and in which order, starting with the most effective once. So, here are the mods that I'm aware of and currently planning to do. Please review and let me know, what should I add/drop from the list, and in which order should these be done, if matters. 1) double sway bars, front/rear, as stiff as I can find'em from a junkyard 2) diy strut brace, anchored to the firewall 3) diy chassis brase 4) beefing up the trailing arms with some weld-on plates 5) lowering, currently staying on the Bilstein B4s and just cut the OEM springs. Still researching how much to cut. If the B4 will go bust, I'll upgrade to B6s later on. 6) adjustable torque and panhard rods, to make corrections due to lowering, or is this required only for extreme lowering? 7) camber mod 8) some kind of steering angle enhancement, still researching about that There can be no roll cage, as it will render the car road illegal, and I can't have that. Am I missing something? Am I planning unnecessary mods? Thanks in advance, Matthew. |
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#2 |
Burnt Sierra Madre
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fort Joe Smith, Klendathu
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![]() Happy Sweet Sixteen!
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#3 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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#4 | |
Autogestion
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ft.Mill, SC
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![]() Where are you on this planet?
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Member: TBCCS "Those who do not move, do not notice their chains." -Rosa Luxemburg Quote:
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#5 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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#6 |
Autogestion
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ft.Mill, SC
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![]() If you have a little leeway in your budget, you may want to look at https://www.classicswede.co.uk He is a member here also. He provides lowering springs that would be better than just cutting springs. Maybe upgrade to Bilstein B8 and call it a day. I'd take one rear sway off. If it handles like it's on rails, it's not going to corner well with such a stiff rear. Needs some articulation back there to hold traction or you run the risk of lifting a rear tire. Springs and correct shocks completely change the dynamics of the car. And it's still good for daily driving. The B4 shocks may not like the cut springs and just become annoying.
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#7 | |||
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Question: If I was doing the listed above mods one at a time, so I could try and test how it goes after each one, in what order should I go about it? So I could, at some point say, "okay, this is stiff enough" and stop there. Quote:
I just bought the car and the B4s were there, brand new. And I will not forgive myself if I don't try what it's like going on cut springs. So, in the list of suspension mods, that I've compiled above (now minus the extra rear sway bar) the lowering line will eventually be a proper lowering kit. But for starters, I'll just cut them OEM springs and give the B4s hell ![]() |
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#8 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Jacksonville, NC
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![]() I’d cut my fronts 2 coils and my rears 2.5. I’m not sure what shocks are in there now as it’s got nivomats from the factory, but not when I bought it. They look like they were taken from a donor car, so stock?. Ride height is noticeably lower, but not slammed.
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
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![]() you'll need a trans cooler or it'll eat itself soon enough trying to drift. do the accumulator mod on the trans, too
don't cut the springs. go straight for good stuff. 80gbp (100USD) for shipping is cheap for sprangs, they are big. Just paid $120 to ship an NA header from Sweden.
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1991 244 LH2.4 M46 341k miles |
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#10 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Quote:
I need to educate myself on the matter of springs. How do I tell the good stuff apart from generic rubbish? What do I need to know? |
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#11 |
Autogestion
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ft.Mill, SC
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![]() Classicswede sells good products. Most suppliers that have "performance" oriented products for these cars tend not to sell crap, 90% of the time, because the community is so small.
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#12 |
Volvo upgrades
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: North Wales
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![]() I would forget the double anti roll bars.
2,3 and 4 if you have fabrication skill then should be cheap enough to do. You can do that as your first jobs. 5 chop off a coil at a time. When the B4's blow I would go in for Coilovers. They can still be decent as a daily driver and cost is not much more than lowering springs and half decent dampers. 6+7 do that once on Coilovers. Camber is then adjustable anyway. If Coilovers are not going to happen then do the basic camber mod early on. 8 if you are most using as a road car don't bother. As suggested fit a oil cooler for the auto gearbox or it will quickly wear out. A manual conversion would be high on my list but doing iron a way that will withstand some abuse is not cheap. With shipping Israel is a pain so best email me with a shopping list to see what best shipping options are but as you probably already know its not a cheap country to ship to |
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#13 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Thank you classicswede, for this ^^^^ input. Exactly what a newbie needs, to sort out thoughts after reading many chassis mod threads. Perfect check list guide -).
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#14 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Is stick welding going to cut it for these (2,3,4) points? That's what I have handy. Or, is stick welding is a big no-no in vehicle related fabrication? All I see here on TB is usually TIG/MIG talk...
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#15 |
Volvo upgrades
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: North Wales
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![]() It is hard to weld thinner gauge steelbwith stick. Mig is the best option as a versatile machine and easy to use.
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#16 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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![]() From my experience trying to make things drift for close to zero dollars, there are a few good areas to focus on.
- Get as much practice as you can. Even in a stock car. You'll improve and get to learn what parts of the car need upgrading.All the braces listed, adjustable rods and steering angle increases are not critical. Sure, nice to have if you have the choice, but not what I'd be looking at first up. Good luck getting the thing working nicely.
__________________
1990 240 driftwagon - B230FX+T - M90 - other fun stuff. Now sold unfortunately. |
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#17 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
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![]() I'd say for drifting..
Absolutely necessary: Welded diff Good working e-brake Some decent skinny tires (to start, of course, will make breaking traction easy) Helmet Track time! As much as you can, hit every event, even the boring rainy practice days, absolutely as much as possible! Things that are nice, will help slide, but not needed on day one: Double sways Cut coils or some stiffer springs Manual swap Angle mods (way better to learn with stock angle..you will spin less once you work up to more angle) Caster mods (you can slot out the strut tops or get some proper plates, me doing the first, I would have done the latter...) Some good steer tires Mostly just get out there and drive, people slide $200 80hp junk heaps just fine...it's just getting out there to figure out the limits of traction and how your particular car reacts!
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Life is too short to stay redblock.. 1990 740 SE, Eaton m90 supercharged b230F drift car *parted and crushed* 1983 242 turbo t5 whiteblock swap (in progress) (He351, MS3x, WC T5) 1990 245 Mitsubishi 4D56 turbo diesel km132 transmission, water/meth 1983 245 Vortec 5.3/ar5 trans/8.8 diff, longtubes, intake, sloppy stage 2, BMW front suspension, dual calipers, |
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#18 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Dallas,TX
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![]() As long as you're not welding to sheet metal, you'll be fine for the diy yourself strut bar and chassis brace. Fabricate the parts in a way that they will just bolt up. Its super easy to make these parts yourself.
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Click below: Buyer/Seller Feedback My Volvo parts for sale on eBay Volvo parts for sale on forum - Post are regularly updated |
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#19 | |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() Quote:
bneshop.com also has a lot of options for you.
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#20 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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#21 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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![]() Didn't open the diff yet, but I think I have a locker. Jacked the axle up, turned one wheel forward slowly, the other stayed put. When I turned it fast, the other started spinning backwards. AFAIU, this is a locker, right?
If it is, I hear that they are unpredictable on track. Should I swap it out for an opened one and weld it? Should I stock two rear ends and swap them out per event? I think that I'm over thinking it :D |
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#22 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: TLV, IL
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#23 |
Dann sind wir Helden
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: 4D space-time
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![]() IDK but drifting seems counterintuitive to going quickly, and it seems track and drift setups are completely opposite, maybe 2 cars would be better for your purposes.
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"i will destroy all of you!" -Sheldon Plankton Booty Scooty https://youtu.be/i4oAOZ8nbq4 |
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#24 | |
the real Towery
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: VA, USA
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![]() Quote:
Do a search for "locker", in titles only, in performance & modifications. The G80 locker can be modified by cutting off the counter-weight inside, and then it's best to weld the rod in place so the weight doesn't fly apart. The counter-weight is what keeps the locker from locking when wheel speed is above ~20mph. If you cut off this weight, the locker can begin locking at any wheel speed. It is not the best diff for racing or drifting and you may still get some inside wheel spin. I've used one of these modified G80 lockers for road racing and it worked well on medium corners, but very tight corners (2nd gear), it could allow inside wheel spin. An open diff that you weld can be reliable and predictable. Bring extra axles because you will eventually break an axle shaft at the splines where it goes into the differential. In general, I would suggest stiffer front springs and negative camber. The front doesn't need to be super low. I would keep the rear fairly soft. Keep the stock springs to start with. When you increase spring rate and sway bar size, you increase the speed of weight transfer. When you try drifting a stiffly sprung car, it's going to transition weight quickly and snap-oversteer if you are still learning car control in a slide (especially transitions). Start out soft, with low grip rear tires. You'll transition from one direction to the other slowly, and your speed will be lower. Increase rear grip, and your speed can increase. Increase spring rates, and you can transition quicker. You don't need a whole lot of changes to start drifting. |
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#25 | |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() Quote:
Now it's basically a track day setup, and I add a bit more toe-out for drifting. Going from track to drift is a 1/4 turn per side of the tie-rods. Car sits with zero toe, -2.0deg camber, 6.5deg caster. For drift I go toe-out 1.5deg total. What I did on my 240: BNE Select top mounts, max caster and camber setting. KL Racing controls arms. BNE Quick Steer Roll Correctors, set to fastest setting and +4 Ackerman 250lb/in front springs, cut wagon springs in the rear 28mm bar in the front, 23mm out back (will probably take this off) Welded diff.
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Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. |
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