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Old 04-26-2019, 02:43 PM   #51
VB242
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If you switch to speed density/megasquirt you don't need a maf at all.
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Old 04-29-2019, 02:38 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
Can't you just put the MAF after the turbos or does that not work with LH?
That works quite well actually. Ran it for 6 months without an issue.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:40 PM   #53
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Interesting, moving the MAF(s) would open up some options and allow me to get them away from the turbo manifold. Thanks for the tip!

My current plan was to first get the base map worked out on the car with the itb's (in an airbox) whilst also moving on with the turbo stuff on the engine stand. With a blow trough setup I could also keep the same wiring then.

After that I was planning to put the new engine in, and run it in without the turbo's after which I can start to add all of the complex bits for the TT setup and make it work. And then slowly increase the boost until I am where I wish to be power wise.

Sorry for the lack of actual updates for now, with the current study load I can only get to benchracing an a little progress each week

Oh and additionally, I finally got my eeprom programmer and eeproms, so soon I'll be trying to burn a couple of chips
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:41 PM   #54
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Default China intercoolers, put the head on, and got myself into 16v trouble

Finally some more progress on both the engine and the car itself, with some late nights and little tasks during quick study breaks

The first hurdle was cleared by drilling out the old oil pump drive gear, and installing a new one, with the installer made by a friend. These were only available from Volvo Penta, so I took the liberty of getting 2 at once for possible future projects.


The next hurdle, the intermediate shaft bearings was also cleared. I covered the new bearings in a good inside coating of vaseline top prevent gaulling of the surface, and used a m20 threaded rod to pull in the bearings nice and straight, finally they are in perfect


Youtube video for the fit:p


I also put in the rear oil seal in one go, so much win!


A few days later I spent a day porting, polishing and reassembling the oil pump, all should be well.













Moving back to the engine itself, I got the head installed with the 12.9 grade head bolts, and proceeded to spend ages to get the valve shims in spec (6 attempts required for perfection):p











With the valve clearance set, I proceeded to applying anaerobic sealant to the cam end caps and put in the rear and front cam seal, since I'll be going wasted spark with this setup.






The large intercoolers I ordered also arrived at the post office, hopefully they'll fit in the front with my measurements.


With all except the oil pan sorted, I proceeded to time the motor on the stand.


And discovered an issue with my plan to use a 24mm wide timing belt.


After a little read and contact with KGtimmning, I went on the lookout for 16v cam gears, which escalated into me buying a set of PZ 16v cams, the roller and belt for a 16v conversion for Strettman. Who I ended up helping to buy a very clean orange 242 which was local to me, pretty cool coincidence.


The crankshaft gear had a little damage on the key, which I managed to restore with a weld bead and a file to an acceptable result.


With this the issue was partly solved, more updates on getting a fitting timing cover and tensioner later.

Proceeding with a night of playing around with the welder and grinder I also managed to create v2 of half of the turbo manifold, which after a test fit on the car still required some adjustments, since my initial placement for turbo #2 was in the frame rail. Stupid mistake, but I modeled it without the car in winter in the driveway to check, so it was to be expected.


I'll soon be getting test fitting v2.5 to continue with the top manifold for turbo #2 (fitment will be different, but this should give an idea of the interfering framerail
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:47 PM   #55
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Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:16 PM   #56
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You may have to re-engineer your coolant transfer tube with that manifold.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:54 PM   #57
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Backwards? Black side faces out, pretty sure..
Hmm, probably then, seemed the most logical at the time, but rubber on the oil side is maybe less smart. I'll change it out by the time I've gone through run in and am ready to put my K-cam in Thanks!


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You may have to re-engineer your coolant transfer tube with that manifold.
Yes I already noticed indeed, with a little adjustment it should work however, I'm more concerned as to the turbo not hitting my strut towers
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:18 PM   #58
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Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:51 AM   #59
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Hi
Catching up with this thread & thought I would relay my own experiences in the manifold building area. Probably too late now as I bet you've finished the manifold but maybe useful to someone doing it for the first time.
I used the same weld elbows & a spare engine on a stand. Like you I put the water pump on but not the pipe that runs to the back. I managed to massage mine with a hammer but have since noticed it has not done the little rubber gasket any favours.
Other things I did not think of in my haste to get it done & see if it would fit were....
1. access to the spark plugs (got lucky on that one)
2. Seeing if I could get to the nuts/bolts on the turbo flange. ( no way!)
3. Seeing if I could get to the nuts on the manifold flange. (again lucky)
4. Not taking account of the length of the head studs in working out how much space I had in the engine bay for the runners.
On this last point I do have a physically big turbo which I now cannot remove from the manifold (without removing from the engine bay). On my 240 there is not enough room to move the turbo/manifold back off the studs to withdraw it from the engine bay. These problems are made worse by being right hand drive & having the brake m/c in the way as well.
I notice that you have a 740 so hopefully will not have these fitment issues.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim
Hi Tim,

Thanks for the tips, I'll take them into account when I get to part 2 of the manifold, I'm currently working on the chassis some more, so my time (and budget) has been spent there mostly

I did already run into 3/4 of these issues on my previous manifold, so hopefully I won't mess up this time around My biggest fitment issue is probably going to be the hood clearance on the top turbo whilst retaining a nice airflow path to the turbo inlet, I hate the look of a hood scoop, so hopefully I'll manage without. Even in a 7 series, it is going to be tight, especially since I'd like to have the space to eventually upgrade to a 15, 17 or 19T
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