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Old 01-30-2019, 01:27 AM   #1
SEslayer
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Default CD009 Swap Guide 7/900 Edition.

CD009 into 7/9 RedBlock.




Zero regret.

So this is actually a pretty simple swap once I had figured it all out, looking back on it.
The most expensive bit by far is the box itself, second for me was shipping. There is zero tunnel bashing required, and no cutting. In my country at least this means this is technically certification exempt.

There's a good write up on the Deeworks website that gives you a fairly good idea of what's involved. I personally recommend buying your adaptor bits from Roger Dee and Josh (Yoshifab) as the more money they make the more cool stuff they develop. (Currently there aren't other options anyway but mumma always said putting things on the internet is forever)

First things first you need to buy all your bits. I didn¬’t buy all of this as most of it wasn¬’t available when I started.

CD009- You want a CD009, there is plenty of info on what they come in on other forums. I got mine out of a 2008 370z try avoid pre 06 VQ 6speed gearboxes? Etc. as they have weaker synchro’s apparently.
CD009 Driveshaft Yoke- these are pretty expensive but there¬’s no way around it. Update: https://yoshifab.com/store/7/9-serie...riveshaft.html
DeeWorks KIT- https://www.deeworks.ca/product/volv...ssion-adapter/. Just buy everything you can from him, it will make your life easier.
Yoshifab Clutch Kit- https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-red...-3-clutch.htmlbuy any one of the upgrade kits that he sells and ask for the Nissan splined pressure plate.
Cross member Adaptor- this is going to have to be a DIY job for now, I will attach a drawing to take down to your local engineer or I could draw it up on AutoCAD if there¬’s enough people keen, though I assume a company will start making them now there¬’s a drawing out.
Shifter- I made my own Turbobricks AF shifter, but here¬’s a few options that look like they will work. There are also EBay options but you will need to buy a common swap kit judging by the location of shifter, the Collins one is where mine is. https://www.serialnine.com/product-p...ter-relocation
http://collinsadapters.com/index.php...t-shifter.html


Cut bell housing behind the last rib on the BH if it¬’s not obvious there are loads of YouTube videos out there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZUg...ature=youtu.be etc. And the info with the plate explains it.
Then cut the small amount of the end of the input shaft as it¬’s too long. I believe I cut off 8mm but I can¬’t quite remember (it¬’s in the print out with the plate anyway)
Clean your mess and clean it well make sure it¬’s all deburred while you¬’re at it because we might be sketchy but we aren¬’t savages.

When you pull the front bearing cover off you will remember you haven¬’t drained the oil yet as two of the lower bolts are straight through and retain fluid. Bribe your mate not to tell anyone and clean up ready to install your fancy billet piece.
Follow the instructions provided which may or may not give a torque spec? I do remember torqueing it properly though, bolt on your bell housing and admire.

For the clutch I got my flywheel and stock pressure plate machined and bought a KA24DE clutch disk. It cost me next to nothing for the disk but it all but it has started slipping if I floor it on the highway in 6th. I would highly recommend a stronger kit from Yoshifab or talk to your local clutch shop as it looks like I will be getting a custom one made. Though this is a cheap way to get running if you don¬’t beat it crazy hard.

For the install I found it all really easy in the end. The factory m46 cross member can be used just bolt it back up in the second set of holes further down the chassis. I believe these were for the automatic cars. I made a small steel adaptor plate to work with the Chevy polly mount that Roger Dee suggests.



I will attach drawings of the plate I made.

For the driveshaft it ended up costing me about 1k NZD (with new hangar bearing and balance), the yolk for the Nissan is insanely expensive mine cost over 300nzd landed. I used a 1350 as it was the only one I could get in my Hemisphere and worked out only a few shekels more (The 1350 doesn¬’t really fit in the Factory tail shaft housing on the G/Box, and is noisy af to start with. However, mine self-clearanced in under 1000miles, you could also file a bit off the edges of the yoke easily, I was lazy.) They didn¬’t need to change the length of the driveshaft, they cut the Volvo flange off and welded the yoke back on, it ended up being perfect length already if cut just after the weld.

I made my own shifter, it¬’s pretty rough but it works well. There are options out there that work, like the serial9 but they are pricy. There is a cheap 240sx cd009 shifter on eBay that does look like it will fit. So consider that also. I run no reverse lock out as it automatically locks out pretty much as soon as you start moving and well before you look for 4th or 6th so don¬’t believe the hype.



That’s pretty much it I am happy to answer questions, it drives great and I can row the gears quicker than anything I have ever driven before. Though it was expensive and cost 4 times what my car did I have zero regrets, absolutely transformed the car.

Mine has 3.73 gears atm. Would maybe go 3.5ish but I am going to be drag racing it so I'll see how quick I can shift as it sits. Currently the car sits at 2600ish rpm at 65mph in 6th.



Don't think just do it.
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Last edited by JohnMc; 01-31-2019 at 08:04 PM..
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:28 AM   #2
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Saved for corrections. and more info
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:29 AM   #3
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Pictures havent uploaded, will try work on it. saved for updates and more info once i get the car back from impound.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:04 AM   #4
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The 370/G37 transmissions are all the same as the CD009, but they are designated as a variety of models. JK40C, JK41A, JK41B. It can be easier to buy one of thse because there's no confusion on whether it is an early weak version, or a later good version. With the CD00X transmission, if the sticker has fallen off, it's very hard to tell the early and late versions apart. It's still possible to get lucky with an earlier 350/G35, however, as a fair number of them were replaced under warranty. Sometimes replaced with a later (but still weak) version, sometimes with a CD009.
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:01 PM   #5
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Nice write up. Congrats.

So did you create your own drive shaft?

Yoshifab also has a cross member and shifter coming out for the 7/9.

Here is my experience:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=345114

Way better transmission than the M46 I had before.
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Old 01-30-2019, 02:25 PM   #6
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Thanks for putting this together
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Old 01-30-2019, 07:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post

So did you create your own drive shaft?

Yoshifab also has a cross member and shifter coming out for the 7/9.
Not exactly. I used the factory two piece and took it to a driveshaft shop. The just cut the m46 flange off and welded the ujoint on. It ended up being perfect length. This saved me massive amounts of money.

As for the crossmember. The factory one does fit. Just move it back to the factory automatic position and bolt it in. Small adapter plate and you're away.

Ill try figure out pictures soon. If you can get a gearbox cheap this could actually be reasonably cheap. Here my gearbox cost $2000
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by SEslayer View Post
Not exactly. I used the factory two piece and took it to a driveshaft shop. The just cut the m46 flange off and welded the ujoint on. It ended up being perfect length. This saved me massive amounts of money.

As for the crossmember. The factory one does fit. Just move it back to the factory automatic position and bolt it in. Small adapter plate and you're away.

Ill try figure out pictures soon. If you can get a gearbox cheap this could actually be reasonably cheap. Here my gearbox cost $2000
Ouch!

I'm picking up 3 of these on Friday for a grand total of $2500 CAD which translates to around $1950 USD.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:38 AM   #9
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I stuck this thread to the top so others will see it. Might become more popular as more people do the swap successfully and work out any difficulties.

You mentioned the Yoshifab clutch kit, and "Nissan splined pressure plate", think you meant Nissan splined clutch disc, right?
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:04 AM   #10
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Thank you. Now please do a 240 version
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Old 02-04-2019, 10:49 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by hessam69 View Post
Thank you. Now please do a 240 version
I'm doing on in a 240 - behind an LS engine. Some quick highlights:
1) Tunnel bashing - it takes a moderate amount. The 240 tunnel gets narrower as it goes back, but the CD009 has a bulky midsection. As well as some protruding bolts that hold shifter detent springs back on the tail end. I didn't need an air hammer, just a regular mini-sledge, but I had to move metal around a fair amount on both sides of the tunnel. To help minimize the bashing/maximize the wiggle room afterward - I also carefully ground off some bumps and lumps on the outside of the CD009's case.

2) Shifter - the 240 has the shifter further forward by a few inches vs. a 700/900 car. This makes using even the shortest rear-mounted CD009 a no-go on a 240 - you'd have to chop out the back end of the shifter area. Which who knows, maybe you'd be ok with that. I got a top-mount shifter conversion, which (afaik, and at least it was that way when i was buying parts) is only made by one company - CBF Performance. This set my whole project behind a fair amount because it took them a good 6-ish months to get the shifter to me, and I was a bit reluctant to proceed on everything else without this major piece in place. Anyhow, it finally got here, and this is a far better fit for a 240. In my case - it's slightly forward of where it would be a best fit - but I have my LS sitting an inch or so further forward as well - just to minimize various other clearance issues under the hood. I used a hole saw to chop out a semi-circle on the front edge of the 240 shifter hole (offset to the driver's side since the shifter is not centered) - and am using an offset extension on the shifter lever to move it to the proper position in the center of the 240's shifter hole.

I'm also using a 260 hydraulic clutch master cylinder and an LS1 T56 slave cylinder. The 260 master cylinder bore matches the LS1 T56 Camaro's master cylinder, so hopefully it will work properly. I still haven't hooked this up yet, however.

I'm using a Collins adapter on my LS swap. This uses almost all stock LS1 Camaro components: bellhousing, starter, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder. The bellhousing bolts to the adapter plate, and there is a specially made clutch disc.
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:51 PM   #12
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Thanks for this info gonna be following suite this year finally time to get a strong drivetrain
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:29 AM   #13
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I'm only finding 225mm KA24 clutch disks, is that what your using? I was under the impression the dog-dish was made for 228mm disks.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:21 PM   #14
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That's the shifter a guy I know modified for his 960 with a CD009 and 16V +t swap. He's a member so maybe he'll chip in to comment. He said to me that it shifts great this way:



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Old 03-21-2019, 01:57 PM   #15
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Neat stuff! Looks easier than my t56 swap in the 945
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:21 PM   #16
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I would like one of these on my 240.
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:50 AM   #17
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Really considering this atm. M90 is doing my head in so might sell it, depending on how much I can get a CD for.
Not many in aus for sale and can get brand new from the us for $2300 aus plus shipping.
Would love to hear how it has been until now. Any problems?
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
Really considering this atm. M90 is doing my head in so might sell it, depending on how much I can get a CD for.
Not many in aus for sale and can get brand new from the us for $2300 aus plus shipping.
Would love to hear how it has been until now. Any problems?
You don't have the 350/370z and G35/37 models in Australia?
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Old 05-28-2019, 07:01 PM   #19
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You don't have the 350/370z and G35/37 models in Australia?
Im from New Zealand and we do. Im sure they do there also.
Sorry i havent updated this as i promised.
I actually lost my license 3 weeks into CD009 and chill.
6months of my mate driving my car while i try not to get caught driving to work in his nissan primera.
Clutch is super worn as it slipped on me in 5th, serves me right for buying a cheap 6puck.
I also got burgled recently and lost a brand new gtx 35/82R and a turbosmart comp 40 gate. Which insurance wont cover.
I am buying the yoshifab flywheel kit because i really cant be ****ed trying to find decent clutch set ups in my homeland for this wack setup. Atleast with that i can get off the shelf stuff.
Will update soon as to how i get on.
License back 9th august (providing i survive this driving while disqualified charge) and post fixed and updated when my self pitty depression lifts.
But gearbox is holding up good as far as i know.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:44 AM   #20
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Yes we have 350/370 Nissanís here. Finding a used cd009 that isnít flogged out is another thing tho.

Op. Any rattle while in neutral and idle once box has warmed up? And any weird noises/clunking while on decel in any gear?

Iíve had m90 with ttv flywheel and it was a noisy boi. And had trouble getting into gears.
T5 swap which has horrible decel noises.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
Yes we have 350/370 Nissanís here. Finding a used cd009 that isnít flogged out is another thing tho.

Op. Any rattle while in neutral and idle once box has warmed up? And any weird noises/clunking while on decel in any gear?

Iíve had m90 with ttv flywheel and it was a noisy boi. And had trouble getting into gears.
T5 swap which has horrible decel noises.
The CD009 is a noisy box also. Especially when you're running a lighten flywheel. The Nissan cars equipped with the box have better noise insulation than our old Volvos. But I can ear it pretty good in my 370z also.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:51 PM   #22
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The CD009 is a noisy box also. Especially when you're running a lighten flywheel. The Nissan cars equipped with the box have better noise insulation than our old Volvos. But I can ear it pretty good in my 370z also.
What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.
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Old 06-20-2019, 03:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.
I'll have to check the brand/model and report back. It's a lightweight single mass FW instead of the OEM dual mass and a stage 3 clutch.

I could source 2 X 2018 370z Nismo 6 speed trannies here for around $1900 CAD (approx $2100 AUD) + shipping and another one form a 2011 370z Nismo for probably around $950 CAD ($1050 AUD)

A new CD009 from the US would be around $2750 AUD + Shipping.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastyleg View Post
What flywheel and clutch setup are you running in the z?
What kind of noises are expected?
Chasing a few leads on cd009 here in aus or maybe import a brand new unit from the states if the wallet permits.
If you are putting it in a Volvo, you can use your Volvo flywheel and pressure plate with a clutch with the right diameter and spline count. Deeworks has recommendations. Yoshifab made mine for my dog dish.

I would tell you about the noise in my car, but I have no interior, windows or sound deadening and I always have my helmet on when I drive it.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:27 AM   #25
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I'm only finding 225mm KA24 clutch disks, is that what your using? I was under the impression the dog-dish was made for 228mm disks.
I have just pulled my B200FT and replaced with a B230FT. In doing so i also decided to upgrade to the yoshifab 235mm package.
I can confirm the original clutch i ran with the setup was to small. it worked, and got me going, but it unevenly wore the flywheel and pressure plate.
it was the cheapest way to get the car going and it does work, its just not ideal.
it lasted me long enough to save the nearly $2000 Nzd i needed for the better setup.
The cheaper alternative that i was going to get was the clutch upgrade that Yoshifab sells, the main reason i diddnt was so in future i can buy shelf stuff for my car locally.
https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-red...-3-clutch.html
https://yoshifab.com/store/235mm-clu...l-package.html

Once i get this POS no start issue sorted ill upload some more photos and throw some decent miles on the swap to review it properly.
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