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Old 06-11-2019, 01:22 AM   #26
klr142
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Originally Posted by autoloclys View Post
Thanks for the advice.

Since the T cams seem harder to find the IPD turbo cam sounds like the next best option

The ipd turbo cam description makes it sound like it's focused on high revving performance @>5000 tpm. But It also improves low end? For daily driving I'm assuming idle to 4000 is where I care most about

Sorry for a basic question. Cam tuning is new to me
Correct. The IPD Turbo cam is a good daily driver cam but it will give up some low rpm performance to permit it to not stop pulling until redline. As mentioned by most everyone else, the Volvo factory T cam is going to provide you with more grunt than just about anything else under 4,000rpm. It is available all over the place for dirt cheap because most people are hunting for high HP numbers instead of torque that actually gets them around.

Get a T, set the intake valves a little tighter around .014” and the exhausts to .016” and run it. Tons of torque from down low and great gas mileage.
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:33 PM   #27
dl242gt
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While I agree with the T cam being a good daily driver choice. The OP car has a M47 with a 3.73 rear if I read correctly. This is a setup that won't spend much time below 2k rpms since you will quickly leave low rpms behind with a 3.73 rear and a manual trans.
I prefer the n/a V15 but it would require an overseas order to get one. So my suggestion would be something like the IPD turbo cam as a good compromise.
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:34 PM   #28
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While I agree with the T cam being a good daily driver choice. The OP car has a M47 with a 3.73 rear if I read correctly. This is a setup that won't spend much time below 2k rpms since you will quickly leave low rpms behind with a 3.73 rear and a manual trans.
I prefer the n/a V15 but it would require an overseas order to get one. So my suggestion would be something like the IPD turbo cam as a good compromise.
Yes, this is a good point but he says he already doesn't go over 4k rpm though. The only time you really do go over 4k, even with the 3.73, is when you're in first gear. The T cam will pull fine to 5,000rpm(and rev higher, but not quickly), especially if you set the valve lash on the tighter side as mentioned and the exhaust is enlarged for better flow. In first gear you don't need any more power anyway, as it'll be over by the time you get your foot to the floor.
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:54 PM   #29
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Analysis paralysis guys.

For a street +T, pretty much any cam beyond the M is an improvement. The difference in HP might be 2 or 3 for any of these cams.
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:53 PM   #30
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For a street +T, pretty much any cam beyond the M is an improvement. The difference in HP might be 2 or 3 for any of these cams.
Yes to the first part, no to the second(heck, the M may even make more Hp than the T cam! But not more torque.). For a daily driver that isn’t to be rev’d above 4k rpm much, if you want maximum torque below that, you want a stock T cam. If you put in an IPD Turbo camshaft, you will lose low rpm torque and gain probably 15+ peak HP because it moves the power up the rpm range.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:14 PM   #31
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If you notice I do agree with a T. However, I was speaking from my own experience. Which is to rev the engine to at least 4k before shifting in the first three gears when possible. I do like the way the car picks up speed so much better with a 3.73 and having the whole upper rpm band there as well as low rpms makes me smile much more than the shifting with an M or T cam.

When I was driving with an M or T cam in my cars. I never went over 4k. With a cam that opens the powerband up as much as something like the V15 does. Once you floor it at 3k and rev it up to 5k with power all the way. Well I never want to back to either M or T cams with a manual trans.

Personal experience has led me to feel that too much is made of the loss of low rpm torque. But if low rpm power is what you are looking for then the T may be a better choice. Remember something like the V15 is called a street performance torque cam. Not a high performance cam.

Hope you enjoy whatever you chose. Improving these cars is really fun.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:10 PM   #32
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When I was driving with an M or T cam in my cars. I never went over 4k. With a cam that opens the powerband up as much as something like the V15 does. Once you floor it at 3k and rev it up to 5k with power all the way. Well I never want to back to either M or T cams with a manual trans.

Personal experience has led me to feel that too much is made of the loss of low rpm torque. But if low rpm power is what you are looking for then the T may be a better choice. Remember something like the V15 is called a street performance torque cam. Not a high performance cam.
I hear you! I love the higher rpm pull. The loss of low rpm torque isn't a huge deal for most people, but for a daily driver around town, you won't be having that much fun often and you will lose a little efficiency by going to a larger camshaft than you need.

But, the V15 for turbos/IPD Turbo, as you say, is a blast of a camshaft and a great daily driver camshaft for someone who wants a little more power and fun.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:42 PM   #33
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Get a T, set the intake valves a little tighter around .014” and the exhausts to .016” and run it. Tons of torque from down low and great gas mileage.
whats the reason for setting the valves tighter?

Ive put in a T cam, and clearances are a bit tighter than stock, .25-.27 mm, listed range in my book is .3-.4mm
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Old 06-23-2019, 04:16 AM   #34
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The tighter you set them the sooner the valves open and later they close, reducing the closed time. This very slightly increases the duration of the camshaft making it act like it is slightly larger than it is.

I recommend running the clearances larger than you are, that is quite a bit tighter than people recommend and might reduce the time the valves are seated too much. The good thing about having looser clearances is that your valves have more time to transfer heat into the valve seat and cylinder head when they’re closed. They can’t do that when they’re open and it increases your chance of burning a valve.

The intake valve doesn’t run as hot as the exhaust so you can get away with having it a little tighter, but .25-.27mm is quite a bit tighter than I’ve heard of people running on a street car. What book is telling you .3-.4mm?
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:45 PM   #35
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What book is telling you .3-.4mm?

that would be the blue book

.3-.4mm for checking, if adjusting, .35-.4mm
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Old 06-24-2019, 02:27 AM   #36
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that would be the blue book

.3-.4mm for checking, if adjusting, .35-.4mm
Ah, ok. So it isnít saying to run it that tight if you are setting it up. Iím surprised it says itís ok, though. This would be assuming youíre running a stock cam in a stock engine though, so something that tight may not cause as much affect as that tight on a more performance oriented setup. I once had a b230ft car that didnít pass emissions with some valves set around .3mm, but going closer to .4mm it went through fine. VX camshaft if I remember correctly.
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