(Not*) Mediocre 242

cosbySweater said:

I'll tell you this, that wilwood master will not work with a hydro bearing, I had to switch to a 11/16 bore master for it to even attempt to work. Also did you shim the bearing properly?

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I'm about 1,200 miles on a .70" master and the same Tilton bearing without a problem. I've got the .63" on the shelf as I thought I'd try to get more pedal throw, but haven't tried it. If the bearing isn't even picking up the free space to the fingers it's got nothing to do with the size of the master.

The bearing isn't shimmed there's a sleeve that threads in and out to set the bearing clearance to the PP.

FYI the window in the bell housing is so big we were able to check bearing clearance with the whole thing assembled.

Harlard said:

I just power bled mine. Does the clutch feel fine to you?

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It doesn't actuate. The bearing doesn't extend.

cosbySweater said:

I'll tell you this, that wilwood master will not work with a hydro bearing, I had to switch to a 11/16 bore master for it to even attempt to work. Also did you shim the bearing properly?

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I set up the bearing properly. I didn't measure, but I'm sure it was the recommended 0.125" away from the fingers in the rest state. Also, Tilton recommends a 0.70" bore master for a 10.5-11" clutch with a master of stroke 1.4".

oldschoolvolvo said:

Nice work.

What are the two lines going to a pressure switch(?) in this pic?

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Those are my fuel return lines and that's an ethanol content sensor for flex fuel.

Stiggy Pop said:

I don't see why it wouldn't. I'm about 1,200 miles on a .70" master and the same Tilton bearing without a problem. I've got the .63" on the shelf as I thought I'd try to get more pedal throw. If the bearing isn't even picking up the free space to the fingers it's got nothing to do with the size of the master.

The bearing isn't shimmed there's a sleeve that threads in and out to set the bearing clearance to the PP.

FYI the window in the bell housing is so big we were able to check bearing clearance with the whole thing assembled.

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I tried both a 0.625" bore and the 0.7" bore and neither moved the hydraulic bearing. I think I'll call Tilton today and see what they think.

Just a gravity bleed got mine 95% of the way there. After that I just did a pedal bleed following Tilton's recommended procedure.

That said, I'm using a Volvo 260 master with my Tilton release bearing.

The Full Banana said:

Just a gravity bleed got mine 95% of the way there. After that I just did a pedal bleed following Tilton's recommended procedure.

That said, I'm using a Volvo 260 master with my Tilton release bearing.

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Pretty sure the 260 is .75" bore and 1" stroke? Pretty similar.

Can't see pics at work, not to insult you but the bearing is positioned with the bleed line on top right? Just can't think of a good reason the piston wouldn't move if it's truly bled out and you're actuating the master.

I noticed that the clutch master tab you welded to the pedal is angled towards the driver quite a bit vs inline with the pedal arm. Are you sure that the clutch master piston is moving properly during the pedal stroke?

(I assume that the tab is at that angle due to the piston rod length, but I'll ask anyway)

Stiggy Pop said:

Pretty sure the 260 is .75" bore and 1" stroke? Pretty similar.

Can't see pics at work, not to insult you but the bearing is positioned with the bleed line on top right? Just can't think of a good reason the piston wouldn't move if it's truly bled out and you're actuating the master.

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Yep, bleed line is the top one. I didn't feel any leaks in the bellhousing either. I haven't seen the piston move at all.

oldschoolvolvo said:

I noticed that the clutch master tab you welded to the pedal is angled towards the driver quite a bit vs inline with the pedal arm. Are you sure that the clutch master piston is moving properly during the pedal stroke?

(I assume that the tab is at that angle due to the piston rod length, but I'll ask anyway)

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You're right. It's angled toward the driver due to the length of the piston rod. But even if that was a problem, I think the piston should still move when I use my power bleeder.

Just called Summit. They're shipping me a new throwout bearing today and will send UPS to pick the bad one up on Monday. Great customer service. They're also in Nevada, so shipping is going only be a day or two.

Also, I've attached a folder containing the solidworks part files and .DXFs of my pedal extension parts.

You need to cut one of these:


Two of these:


One of these:


One thing to note is that master cylinder arm I made works with the uncut length Wilwood master cylinder rod and this clevis. I also undersized the hole (it's 8 mm) that the clevis pin goes through so you may or may not have to drill it to size.

t8fanning said:

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the fact that you have this minimal space here and seem to feel okay about it is comforting to me.

That's ALOT of space quin

Clears once it's going to clear twice..

The engine doesn't move forward and the radiator doesn't move back, so there's no problem.

Hydro bearing is bunk time to ls swap it herp a derp a durrrrrrrrrrrrr - turbobricks

Quin said:

the fact that you have this minimal space here and seem to feel okay about it is comforting to me.

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That clearance in my car is about 1/2" and it's totally fine.

i guess i'm new to this 'having no clearance anywhere' game.

Is there any sort of "bench bleeding" the clutch MC that's required a la a new brake MC -- could something like that be an issue? Just seems unlikely to me to be a bad hyd TOB right out of the box.

I don't think so. But on the new one that's coming, I'm definitely going to bleed and test it out of the car first thing.

Read through the whole thread...wow...cool project and great result!

I finally got everything back from powder coating and a new bearing from Summit, put it all together and drove the car. First impressions are that the clutch is stiffer than I thought and incredibly grabby. It's pretty much an on/off switch right now. I've only driven a few miles on it, so I'm sure it'll break in and be a little more driver friendly. I also am not used to the clutch starting to disengage at around half the pedal travel. I must have had my cable adjusted poorly in the past because the clutch always started to disengage really high in the pedal travel.

Here's a picture of the throwout bearing installed on the trans:



If you want to do this, be sure to install the threaded sleeve first (it's a tight fit, even with lubrication) then put the anti-rotation pin in, and then thread the bearing on. I initially tried to thread the bearing on and then install the anti-rotation pin, but that didn't work at all. The pin is way too long.

I initially tried using a master cylinder with a bore of 0.625", but that didn't move enough fluid for the clutch to actuate with the pedal travel I have available. Maybe I didn't bleed the system enough and it could work, but I don't think it will. I think you have to use the Tilton recommended 0.7" bore. Luckily I got a -4 AN dry break fitting for my clutch line which makes swapping master cylinders pretty clean and easy. Over the last two weeks, I've removed and installed the master cylinder probably 6 times. Once the bearing was good to go, I didn't know what to do with the bleed line, so I clamped it to the transmission and tucked it back to avoid as much road grime as possible. I need to get a couple hose separators to tie the clutch line to the fuel hard lines for a little more stability.





So far, I've been really pleased with Ben's T5 adapter plate. It put the shifter in a little different spot than the Deeworks kit, so I had to counter bore the shifter bolts so they didn't hit the passenger edge of the hole. One benefit to Ben's plate is that the transmission no longer pops out of second gear due to the rubber shift boot bunching up. However, it did pop out of fifth a few times on my drive, so I may need to re-install my modified shift boot instead of the stock one I have in there now. I'll figure it out soon enough. I just need to drive it, it's been sitting way too long. I also need to work on the flex fuel part of the tune a bit.

"I've only driven a few miles on it, so I'm sure it'll break in and be a little more driver friendly."

What type/brand of clutch disc and pressure plate?

Do you think you could have had the inside of the bell housing faced down a bit to create a flat surface for the release bearing? I have a deeworks kit, and have been planning on using the internal slave.

Dry breaks are awesome!

Jordan