Broke4speed
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
- Location
- Marionville, Ontario, Canada
Long story short, I hate the 71L I put in my car, because I cruise too low for my big 16G (8cm hotside) to spool at highway speeds (canadia, 80-100kph or 50-62mph). If the converter wasn't locked to direct drive, and I could take advantage of the converter stall speed, it would be fine...but that lockup clicks in at 81kph and sucks the fun out of the car. Finding and rebuilding an AW71 isn't going to happen, so...maybe there's a way I can modify my current one, I hope.
Here's a picture of the valve body from the ATSG manual:
There's two valves, a signal and a relay. Here's some helpful info from an old thread ( http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=121456) that explains what they do and how:
Now, I'm wondering if I were to shim one of those two valves, or both, could I prevent the lockup from engaging? Any thoughts?
Here's a picture of the valve body from the ATSG manual:
There's two valves, a signal and a relay. Here's some helpful info from an old thread ( http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=121456) that explains what they do and how:
Linuxman51 said:Lock-up signal Valve: Line pressure is supplied to one end of the valve and governor pressure to the other. Two line pressure inlets are provided, one for selector positions 1-3 and one for selector position 4. when 4th gear is engaged and the governor pressure (i.e. speed of the car) increases, oil flows at line pressure from the control valve to the changeover valve.
lock-up changeover valve: The valve is actuated by oil at line pressure from the signal valve. Opening the valve reverses the fluid flow from the torque converter, operating the lock-up clutch plate and activating the lock-up function.
Now, I'm wondering if I were to shim one of those two valves, or both, could I prevent the lockup from engaging? Any thoughts?