Fresh 240 wheel alignment, already want to go back to negative camber.

We just replaced inner and outer tie rods, so we did a wheel alignment to get the steering wheel straight and set to Volvo's specs. What I did not notice is that they had to set the camber to a slight positive to be within spec. I want to bump the camber back down to at least 0? because the car already felt a little off when doing turns and corners. The paper said my before was only -0.5?/-0.6? for my left and right, respectively, and that was with the top mount all the way inward.

How badly would the toe be affected if I push the top just a bit inward?

Leaning the strut in a bit more at a guess would make the toe move toward toe out. How much is too hard to say. I'd suggest getting one of those laser tape measures and check it after you move the struts in. I'd move them in all the way. You'll be doing good to get zero or slightly negative with the mounts pushed all the way to the inside of the slots. Most negative camber I've gotten with the stock setup is about -.5 degree.

Make sure the top spring perch isn't hitting the inside of the strut tower if you move them in all the way.

Most places I've searched said going negative camber causes more inward toe, but different cars, different geometry. I'll mark where the current "correct" camber is on the strut towers and move them inward probably halfway between that spot and all the way negative in hopes of at least having 0?.
Going from the current spot to fully inward is only about 1?, so hopefully it doesn't move the toe too much out of order

GeneralBurrito said:

Most places I've searched said going negative camber causes more inward toe, but different cars, different geometry. I'll mark where the current "correct" camber is on the strut towers and move them inward probably halfway between that spot and all the way negative in hopes of at least having 0?.
Going from the current spot to fully inward is only about 1?, so hopefully it doesn't move the toe too much out of order

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It will unless you actually use an alignment machine

GeneralBurrito said:

Most places I've searched said going negative camber causes more inward toe, but different cars, different geometry. I'll mark where the current "correct" camber is on the strut towers and move them inward probably halfway between that spot and all the way negative in hopes of at least having 0?.
Going from the current spot to fully inward is only about 1?, so hopefully it doesn't move the toe too much out of order

Click to expand...

These cars are not as sensitive to camber influenced toe change as others, but it's still a thing.

For DD and general driving duty, I find that max negative camper with stock springs and a smidge toe-in to work the best. If you have really rutted roads, then more toe-in or less camber. If you like driving curvy roads, max the camber.

If after adjusting the camber it's darty (toe out), turn each tie rod end in 1/8 of a turn and go test drive. Repeat until it's not moving around, you can get pretty close by trial and error.

We do camber changes on pit road without realigning toe all the time. It shows us the direction we want to go, and we correct toe in setdown. The toe change is pretty minor unless you are putting in a huge change, though you do want it corrected, mostly for wear on a street car. I suggest finding a shop that runs a few race cars and ask them to string your car, since regular alignment shops will stick to factory settings, which may not work for you at all depending on your setup.