1998 Volvo V70R Radiator

Hey all,
So my radiator end tank finally reached the end of its life. Small crack, small leak right below the upper hose. Planning on replacing the radiator, but while looking at my car, I noticed that only the transmission cooler hoses (drivers side of radiator) are hooked up. The passenger side ports (where the oil cooler lines should attach) are completely empty, and the hoses are nowhere to be found. Is this a common delete? Should I get the radiator with only the trans cooler ports? Thanks.

It's not a common delete in my eyes.

Are the cooler lines capped off at the transmission? Any chance there was an aftermarket cooler tucked somewhere?

If someone swapped in the oil pan with the oil cooler on the firewall side of engine then yes
And/or a later rn swap engine

Otherwise what ^he said

ovlov760 said:

It's not a common delete in my eyes.

Are the cooler lines capped off at the transmission? Any chance there was an aftermarket cooler tucked somewhere?

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Not the transmission cooler side. That side is intact. Its the engine cooler side. Got underneath the car today and noticed a block off plate where the oil thermostat should've been (slightly forward/under the crank pulley) Odd. Will probably end up yanking one off a junkyard car along with the lines when I get the chance.

Yea get those going again. Or buy IPDs trick kit

Keep it deleted. If you needlessly can't sleep nights because you are worried about boiling oil.
Put on a '99+ oil pan & the tube coming out of the back of the water pump housing.

That -'98 oil cooler crap is a JOKE, and gross.

You should also be buying a Genuine Volvo radiator, which the "correct" one for your car is discontinued.
So the fix for this, "while supplies last", is buy a '99+ radiator, and swap the tranny cooler lines from a '99+.

Or cyclically replace China radiator yearly.

^DO88 radiator swap & RN motor sump oil-water heat exchanger?

Sleep well at night (such as that?s possible with these over complicated side-winder timing belt interference motor made-of-glass ?AWD? (90-10 split & 70-30 weight distribution sans AWD manual no-electrons disengagement &/or low range?) things?

Whiteblocks (except late model PRV) Suck anyway?
Hollow motor, oil all sloshes to each side of the pan, emissions crankcase vent gets stuffed up easy.

That said, address these shortcomings & the 10 bolt flywheel & bore + stroke & combustion chamber design is nice on them?

Cost of ownership, MPG w/emissions laden 2.3 5-hole shoving electrically over-complicated ~3800-4000lb nose heavy yesterdays luxo-barge?

..better really enjoy it when it?s fixed up nice/ running right like the Land Rover disco (which gets about the same city fuel economy but is a body on frame truck w/pushrod V8 sans timing belt & real 4wd?) ?

RN pan & oil cooler is the way to go, if you are running over stock power levels, for stock setup prolly easier to just leave it be.

Going OT -

Kjets On a Plane said:

made-of-glass ?AWD? (90-10 split & 70-30 weight distribution sans AWD manual no-electrons disengagement &/or low range?) things?
:

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Have to take exception to this nonsense. The early AWD had issues for sure, but it's certainly not made of glass. I ran 500AWHP through my 98, using only factory AWD parts. Once you reach 300AWHP, it's 50/50 torque split, I posted AWD dyno charts of this many years ago.