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Old 09-11-2017, 09:32 PM   #51
LC4CARL
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I did that too. Had the manual rack. Went to a looped ZF. Much better. Still could be quicker I think. May try the SAI thingys.

I was able to get almost -1* camber with the stock springs. I use the PS ball joints for caster. It drives OK, but still wanders more than I would like on worn roads.

Thinking about going with Ben's basic mount / bearing upgrade to replace the aging OE mounts. It's only money...
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Old 09-12-2017, 03:34 AM   #52
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I did that too. Had the manual rack. Went to a looped ZF. Much better. Still could be quicker I think. May try the SAI thingys.

I was able to get almost -1* camber with the stock springs. I use the PS ball joints for caster. It drives OK, but still wanders more than I would like on worn roads.

Thinking about going with Ben's basic mount / bearing upgrade to replace the aging OE mounts. It's only money...
I'll just do full power steering. I'm tired of cranking 235mm wide tires on manual racks. That size tire on a 242 also means wander on the highway. Tends to rut track.

I'll put a new moog balljoint on each side as well. They have grease zircs on them. Expensive though.

I like the look of the lux steer stuff as well.
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:10 PM   #53
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adjusted the cam gear again. I ended up ~2 degrees retard in order to prevent knock.
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Old 09-21-2017, 06:41 PM   #54
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I'll just do full power steering. I'm tired of cranking 235mm wide tires on manual racks. That size tire on a 242 also means wander on the highway. Tends to rut track.

I'll put a new moog balljoint on each side as well. They have grease zircs on them. Expensive though.

I like the look of the lux steer stuff as well.

Do wider tires contribute to "wander?" Mine's not terrible, but it is there. (215/55R16)
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:09 PM   #55
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Do wider tires contribute to "wander?" Mine's not terrible, but it is there. (215/55R16)
Yeah, they will. The wider tires like to rut track. Gets worse as the steering wears.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:54 PM   #56
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Large rock on the highway at 75mph. Raining heavily and didn't see it till it was too late to avoid fully. Better than my oil pan I suppose. Pinched the tire as well. Suspension seems unharmed.

Had to buy a pair of tires (so that I have a matched pair) as well as pull one of my snows off (they were wasted anyway) for the rim.
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:55 PM   #57
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On a serious note, your fender bender is the perfect excuse to get some fresh paint on the back of the 242! This is a great project!

Interesting to know that WA does not reissue the title as branded. Wish I could say the same.

Last edited by Shadow Ninja; 01-17-2018 at 12:19 AM..
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Old 01-17-2018, 02:48 AM   #58
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On a serious note, your fender bender is the perfect excuse to get some fresh paint on the back of the 242! This is a great project!

Interesting to know that WA does not reissue the title as branded. Wish I could say the same.
You would think so, but I just hammered it back out till the new tail light was able to seal and called it a day.

My theory is that they think that if the car is over 25 years old, they figure that its essentially worthless, so why bother?
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:11 AM   #59
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Nice car, and nice work done to it.
With an H-cam and pretty much standard head a B23 produces the most power with the cam set so the #4 intake valve is 3,2-3,5 mm open with crank at tdc.
Ignition is tricky with H-cams, its easy to get detonation with that weird cam profile but set it to about 5 degrees at idle and about 28 degrees at high rpm and adjust from there. Some modification of distributor is a must.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:59 AM   #60
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Nice car, and nice work done to it.
With an H-cam and pretty much standard head a B23 produces the most power with the cam set so the #4 intake valve is 3,2-3,5 mm open with crank at tdc.
Ignition is tricky with H-cams, its easy to get detonation with that weird cam profile but set it to about 5 degrees at idle and about 28 degrees at high rpm and adjust from there. Some modification of distributor is a must.
Its interesting that you say that, its about where I ended up with the cam timing and base ignition. No science involved, just making small adjustments over time to try to eliminate knock while making the most power. I would say that it makes almost as much power as my stock 84 242GLT.

I didn't modify the distributor, but it has about 30 degrees total advance max.

I don't have a timing belt cover on the motor (due to the round tooth conversion), but I use the crank gear timing mark (the one used to set the gear position when installing the belt) instead with an adjustable timing light. Works very well.
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Old 01-20-2018, 05:50 AM   #61
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Cool, you can modify the distributor to have less total advance if you want a little more midrange power, that way you can run higher base timing and still dont get way to advanced at higher rpm.
That will give you a more responsive engine and a little more torqe below 4k rpm.
Higher max ignition then 30 degrees give you no more power at all, only cooler sounds when banging the revlimiter and knocking issues.
With and H-cam it is really easy to get high rpm knock, not just where the engine makes the most cylinder pressure, that kind of knock is really hard to hear.
The H-cam is the only one allowed in VOC rallycars here in sweden so we have put ALOT of hours in at the dyno testing. About 160-165 hp is about where we end up with a stock B23 (H-cam, GT 60mm exhaust) with just a really good rebuild keeping to volvos max tolerances and many hours of testing.
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:22 PM   #62
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Cool, you can modify the distributor to have less total advance if you want a little more midrange power.
Since the distributor advance is computer controlled (no springs, no weights), how do you go about limiting advance without modifying the Chrysler ignition setup? I'm running the Bosch distributor rather than the white cap setup. I've often thought about doing this by buying one of the 123 programmable distributors, but am unsure how well that would play with the LH2 EFI system.

I would love to go to MS or some other programmable EFI system running a wasted spark system, but just don't have time to install it and sort it out (job, kids, wife, etc.). Some guidance would be appreciated.
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Old 05-25-2018, 02:43 AM   #63
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Another one bites the dust...
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Old 05-25-2018, 07:20 PM   #64
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Hmmm, some headlight saver tape might be a good idea, or, if you can find them, the clear plastic headlamp protectors that iPd and some other places used to sell. Pop those on, and your H4's won't die due to rocks, etc...

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Old 05-25-2018, 07:23 PM   #65
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Ordered a set of Xpel headlight protectors for a 7" jeep headlight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In this case, it was a metal bracket. Pretty sure it would have killed the lens no matter what.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:02 PM   #66
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True there...
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:56 PM   #67
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Minor update.

Usual maintenance stuff, engine oil and trans oil (Type F).

Took out the manual steering rack and installed a JY ZF rack. Found that lurking in a 93 wagon from an old Green Car Co. D24T conversion. For those not familiar with GCC, they converted a number of 93 wagons to install the euro version of the D24T backed by an M47. Imported the motors and everything. This was ~10-12 years ago. They were a victim of the 'great recession'. One of the things that they did was to install a brand new ZF rack. This one was still in great condition with nice and tight inner and outer ends as well as good boots. Installed it with an early 80's pump on an AC delete bracket. Used type F fluid as well per the Greenbook. Checked the toe. Looked good at 1/8" toe in (total).

I had intentionally gone to manual steering when I put the car together. I wanted as little power equipment as possible. It turned out that with 235mm wide front tires driving the car at low speed is an exercise in patience. This was especially true when parking with grooved concrete. The steering shaft U joint bearings were wasted due to the excessive steering effort. Driving the car this way had become dangerous as it would rut track terribly. This would fling the car around when transiting across some of the construction areas in Tacoma and the 167/405 interchange.

Driving into work this morning was so nice. Its interesting having driven the same car for so long with manual steering and switching to power. I was surprised to see just how different the car drives. Much smoother - especially on secondary roads at 25-45 mph and the long sweeping onramps that WSDOT seems to prefer. Its also interesting to compare my wife's 91 wagon power cam rack to this cars power ZF rack. The ZF rack is a little higher wheel effort with a correspondingly higher road feel.
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