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Electric Fan Conversion

yea, 80 AMP's is really pushing it these days when you start running into electric fans.

I found a way to keep running my engine driven fan with my inter-cooler install on my 240.

It is the only reason why I have not upgraded mine yet.
 
Texas240 said:
all 9xx ecu's have the fan controller
Click to expand...
Even the 240 951 ecu that my '91 came with? Is it already wired in then and I just need to find the untapped wire somewhere underhood???
Rectilinear said:
I have had problems in the past with the temp switches in the radiator.
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Go on...?
vvpete said:
I use an 82 deg t-stat with an 87 deg on, 82 deg off rad mount switch from NAPA and works, cycles great in the Texas heat, keeps the temp exactly at 9:00 (temp comp board by-passed) without waiver at 100 degrees, A/C on max. 3 1/2 years now on e-fan.:cool:
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Is your switch a push in or screw in? I have a screw in and will get a 92/87 to try out tomorrow. Whatever is in there now clicks in around 9:30 before cooling down to my 8:30 and I experience some detonation with the higher compression at light loads in the midrange(as well as going from cruise to WOT immediately). When the car's cool though(and cool outside), I don't experience any detonation. I may swap out for a 82C T-stat instead of the current 87C one, and would like to lower the temp switch to an 87/82 at that point too, if I go that route.
 
Thanks for bumping, I forgot to post my results.
klr142 said:
I have a screw in and will get a 92/87 to try out tomorrow. Whatever is in there now clicks in around 9:30 before cooling down to my 8:30 and I experience some detonation with the higher compression at light loads in the midrange(as well as going from cruise to WOT immediately). When the car's cool though(and cool outside), I don't experience any detonation. I may swap out for a 82C T-stat instead of the current 87C one, and would like to lower the temp switch to an 87/82 at that point too, if I go that route.
Click to expand...
The 92/87 screw in that I installed matched the activation temperatures of the not labeled switch that was already in there. So, I swapped in the 87/82 switch and have been running that with great success. Basically, it holds the temperature very stable near where the thermostat(87*) held the car. If the temp went up any, the fan went on, right about, or just before when it went to 9:00 on the gauge. So, quite perfect, really. The downside, if it is one, is that the fan comes on relatively often in warmer weather. Then again, if you want stable temperatures, that's how it's going to be to remain stable.

I then put in the 82* thermostat to try and reduce detonation on initial WOT, but there's still a tad if I'm not nice with the throttle. I might go back to the 87* for "increased combustion efficiency".
 
Still chuggin along. I should switch to an 87 on 82 off switch to keep this ish cool. I read an article about bore wear in relation to cars equipped with mech-fan and E-fans, significant increase in wear on the e-fan equipped car! Going to NAPA soon.:roll:
 
I just started this project. putting in new radiator as well. Im using 2 relays and a 40 amp fuse off the battery. Wireing 2 fans... routing to A/C, coolent switch, and override to a toggle switch. When I first started looking at the wireing diagram I was pretty much dumbfounded but once you figure out how relays work its super simple and the results are well worth it. I wired in an electric fan in my wagon and worked way way better than the stock fan and I had no idea what I was doing. This time Im doin it factory style +1. Ill post my results after this weekend
 
find the fan controller mini-game
nothin10.jpg

Spal PWM v.3

controls one fan as is, add a simple relay and it controls two. easily wires to your stock temp gauge sensor and provides for AC and/or overrride switch, status lamp. wiring is the perfect length, just long enough to route everything, add some heat shrink vinyl tubing and it looks factory.

i also have one in the Chicken, another easy install.
picture.php
 
Does anyone use some kind of M14x1.5 dual temperature switch (real switch, not NTC)? I searched many brands and have found only the BMW used these, but they are little pricey...
 
Coupe' de Grace said:
find the fan controller mini-game


i also have one in the Chicken, another easy install.
picture.php
Click to expand...


Don't mount the controller in front of the rad though, dude.
The whole point is to draw air through the rad. ;-)



I use the later style 850 fan with the spiral blades mounted in a custom shroud, using the stock 850 2 speed controller that comes with it. Power comes straight off the alternator positive with an inline blade style fuse.

This cools 400whp with a stock Nissens rad quite well.

Speed 1 is connected to the ems to switch on at 180 degrees (170 degree t-stat)
Speed 2 is connected to the temp switch in the radiator and comes on at 200 degrees (never does, this is just a fail safe feature if the wiring or the ems output ever failed).



The 850 fan and controller is an excellent choice and cheap/reliable/strong.
 
Captain Bondo said:
Don't mount the controller in front of the rad though, dude.
The whole point is to draw air through the rad. ;-)



I use the later style 850 fan with the spiral blades mounted in a custom shroud, using the stock 850 2 speed controller that comes with it. Power comes straight off the alternator positive with an inline blade style fuse.

This cools 400whp with a stock Nissens rad quite well.

Speed 1 is connected to the ems to switch on at 180 degrees (170 degree t-stat)
Speed 2 is connected to the temp switch in the radiator and comes on at 200 degrees (never does, this is just a fail safe feature if the wiring or the ems output ever failed).
The 850 fan and controller is an excellent choice and cheap/reliable/strong.
Click to expand...

it's the same as a 940/960 fan and controller as well. all good choices, same thing I have on mine.
 
The fan switch in 240 radiators comes on at 100c which IMO is too hot.

87c is the point at which your thermostat if fully open, cooling system is maxed out. Therefore I would set the fan to come on around 92c and see how it is. If your fan runs more than seems necessary try 97c. Keep an eye on your temp gauge of course.

You trying to keep the engine close to the t-stat value but without needlessly cycling the fan like a psycho.

I switch speed 1 on at 87c (via my engine management) but I have a colder tstat than stock. I have the 2nd speed wired up to the switch on the rad for in case things get crazy or my ems fails to switch the fan on. Speed #2 never comes on.
 
Having a fan switch temp that is lower than your thermostat temp makes no sense...
 
If it's after the rad sure it does, you don't want the water coming back in at thermostat temp. Like I said it keeps temps completely consistent around town and through traffic. It's the same way the saabs ran it in "tropical" climates, I figure they probably had figured something out. Why wouldn't you want water cooler than your thermostat coming into the engine? The thermostat regulates it, not the fan.
 
Be sure to put the sensor on the bottom hose. Mine has it on the top and it turns on sporadically, like when it sits in the parking lot after driving it.
 
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