Well, in keeping with tradition the EMS swap has taken about 6x longer than I anticipated and cost about 2x as much (mostly from buying tools to build a harness properly). But I'm happy with how it's going, I feel like we're doing things the right way, and I'm learning a TON about this stuff. This is the first install like this I've done, since the ms2 was really just swapping the system from the gold wagon, so every piece of it is an education. That's really bogged me down at certain points, but it's been pretty enjoyable. I think I spent a lot of time up front trying to plan every single turn of wire and crimp out in my head, when I should have just gotten into it and let things figure themselves out. It's actually less intimidating to deal with it hands on then it is to sit on the computer at work and read about it (work's been slow).
I had decided in the beginning I wanted to build the new harness with all new, unterminated connectors. Having done a few now I can say this was definitely the way to go, but it did increase the costs because I didn't have the tools to do it right. With that said, everytime I make a connection I say "man this thing was worth the money"
http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-1892...4&sr=8-3&keywords=tool+aid+ratcheting+crimper
It takes most of the guess work out of it (once you're confident in the dies and how to place things). But it makes perfect crimps, and things turn out a lot cleaner. Here's some Bosch pins made with the crimper, they came out as good as the ones I took apart and this was the first connector I made.
It was also helpful to free myself from the expectation to make some perfect weatherproof heat shrunk glue booted aircraft quality wiring harness. I'm still trying to do it neat, clean, and professionally, but I'm trying to be a little more realistic about the fact that I'm building a 35-year-old Volvo to drive on the weekends, not a GT3 car. Had a few people ask me why I'm not using some big mil-spec bulkhead connector, and I wanted to at first, but in the end it was just going to be unneeded cost and complication. When the engine's out I'm going to hang the harness in the car anyways, so why introduce all the complexity and failure points? I work in aerospace and I see a lot of removal reports for bent connector pins, not so much for rubber grommets. KISS in that case.
The 12v side of the harness is done, using the GTO fuse/relay panel left over from my Dad's ls1 v90 project. We've got a main relay for the micro, then cube relays for fuel pump, coils, injectors and accessories (idle valve, wideband etc.). I wanted to get rid of the mess on the driver's side fender so I'm going to move/hide the headlight stuff a bit, and I ditched the stock 12v distribution thing for a busbar tucked down behind the battery. One circuit breaker is dedicated for the fuel pump, the other is on the line that feeds the rest of the microsquirt stuff. I'm also going to add a battery shutoff switch when I make new battery cables.
In the interest of re-looming things more neatly I've got all the harnesses cut open and am moving/trimming/eliminating where appropriate to neaten things up. This is my anti-wire tuck photo.
Looks crazy now, but I can already see how much cleaner it's going to look when it's loomed. Left to do now is: make up connectors for the injectors, coils, wideband, and MAP sensor, new wiring for the big fuel pump, mount the fuse panel/micro/map sensor in the car. Getting really close to powering things up. I at least expect to hook the micro up to the laptop this weekend and calibrate sensors... that's the goal at least.
Roger Dee got me set up to mount the coils properly, after my issue with spacers and clearance in the last post. This is relevant to anyone trying to use Roger's ls2 coil bracket with d514a coils: you'll need spacers that are ~.850" and bolts that are around 1.75". This allowed me to flip the coils over, which puts the connectors towards the nose, so they actually fit in the car. Big thanks to Roger for sending the hardware gratis, even though it was my miss on things fitting. Forgot to take a pic on the engine but they look really slick.
difference in hardware from the "old style" (square body) ls2 to the d514.
Pretty obvious where you'd have a problem if you flipped them over with the connectors to the left.
Need to buy some spark plug wire kit, and hope that I can clear my downpipe without having to move the coils up the bracket towards the intake (it is a wee bit tight).
Sunday I got started on the fuel system, and making use of this expensive pile of aluminum and hose.
I was a little miffed when the local speedshop substituted the Russell fittings over the Aeroquip I asked for since it's what he had available. Now that I've made up a few hose ends I'm over it, they seem to play nice with the AQP hose I've grown to love.
I got the modified fuel sending unit swapped in with the Aeromotive A340 pump. I had no idea how easy 240 guys had it with this job. Ever done one on a 7/9? Huge pain in the ass in comparison. So it'll be the A340 in tank, -6 on the feed, stock filter with adapter fittings, -6 to rail, to FPR, then the stock return line back to the tank.
Here's the filter setup for -6. Fittings are m12x1.5 and m14x1.5.
One side track I got on the past few weeks was how to handle the FPR with the -6 hose and fittings. I have been using a Cosmo adjustable regulator that I carried over from the gold wagon, which was nestled in a kludgey loop of fuel lines running every which way. I like the regulator though because it's a: free, b: has a gauge. So, I had to figure out what fitting I could use to put a -6 on the pressure side. 1/8" NPT was just a bit big, would only start half a thread or so before binding. I called Cosmo and they actually couldn't tell me what the threads were, guy on the phone said "I think we use metric threads"... less than helpful. In lieu of that info I'd need to tap it out to 1/8" NPT, so I asked about the gasket to seal the two halves... NLA. So I had the option of tapping it out assembled and hoping I didn't bugger it up with chips, or take it apart and hope I could reassmble without leaks. The gasket was a plasticky piece that was still flexible so I took it apart.
Everything came apart cleanly and was robust, so don't expect any issues. The existing threads were too big to "drill out" so I just ran the NPT tap through them, which worked out fine. Fitting installed on the pressure side:
Played around a bit with placement ideas for it, I wanted it off the engine and somewhere I wouldn't have fuel lines criss crossing stuff. I found a good spot in the back of the driver's side strut tower, tucked away into the corner near the hood hinge. Here it is reassembled on a bracket to fit the new location. This will let me feed the front of the rail, then I can send a fuel line from the back, across the firewall, into the FPR, then snake the return right down under the booster. Hoses will be nearly invisible and should be pretty slick once I get around to finishing them.
Getting there! Going to be a big celebration when this thing runs again.