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Pdx dl

Replace the pcv hose and oil transfer tube pump seals when you already have the pan off. I would only use volvo oil transfer pump seals.
 
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77volvo245 said:
Replace the pcv hose and oil transfer tube pump seals when you already have the pan off. I would only use volvo oil transfer pump seals.
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^This & a late model transfer tube (matched to oil pump or have a few handy that fit best) & ~1989?+ OE 'tall' gear oil pump/egg beater is a nice addition to an '87 & earlier engine.

So, you removed the engine to do all this though?

So much heavy lifting/brute force for a few leaks! Impressive.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
^This & a late model transfer tube (matched to oil pump or have a few handy that fit best) & ~1989?+ OE 'tall' gear oil pump/egg beater is a nice addition to an '87 & earlier engine.
Click to expand...

Great idea.


So, you removed the engine to do all this though?

So much heavy lifting/brute force for a few leaks! Impressive.
Click to expand...

You know me. First time I pulled it, years ago, was to degrease it; rather than fix an inop heater in the dead of winter...

:lol:

But it will make it easier to swap the pan gasket this time.
 
^You need to go to the gym why again? :lol:

Tall gear pumps from 89-90 N/A cars tend to be lower RPM/less cooked oil/less beat up and tighter tolerance.

Squirter motors more oil volume/same pressure & run hotter on the e-fan cars, so they tend to be more beat up.

Get the tube with the pump is all if possible...tube seems to be matched to pump housing, block tolerance seems "similar" :-)lol: at that in redblock land) on all of them.
 
Yoshi to the rescue.


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Not much time to wrench. Maybe put the motor back in the car this week. Waiting on oil supply / drain lines. Need studs for the turbo (does a gasket go between the manifold and turbo?). Going to need a joiner or two for the intake. Injectors arrived. Exhaust flex thing arrived. Need to sort out the waste gate actuator. Manifold heat shields arrived (do I use the lower heat shield, between the manifold and the alternator, on the late model manifold?). Did Volvo stamp numbers on the big end of the con rods or has my engine been rebuilt? Losing the water cooling on the turbo, but I don't think that's a huge deal.

Sorting the down pipe will be interesting. Probably going to start the car with the small waste gate so I can connect the down pipe. Then drive it over to Robert's. Swap the ATP waste gate on at his place, then weld up the exhaust. Probably.

Don't know, what I don't know, at this point. Having fun.
 
The impetus for this effort was the oil leak and, with no car shows, something to do during the quarantine. I tried several fixes over the past two years. I'm not 100% on the source. While I could snug many of the bolts, I could not replace the pan gasket with the engine in the chassis. So we cleaned up the mess again, replaced the pan gasket, oil-pump o-rings and oil separator drain hose.

The turbo upgrade was secondary, but I'm excited about the promise of more power. The oil supply and drain lines will be from Yoshi. Maybe the leak was there. Going with the ATP waste gate and 3" down should be cool.

Sold a bunch of parts to pay as I go. I think I'm in for about $1,000. The clutch and trans are a concern. It's just nice to have something fun to do.
 
Early on I did have to fiddle with the drain at the turbo. Getting the surfaces parallel. I figure with the different exhaust manifold, some flexible lines would be easier to get leak-free.


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Anxious to see how the different turbo effects the power band. Turbo's are a mystery to me. My best guess it that this will have more of an "on / off" character. No boost, no boost, bang! Dunno.
 
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