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Old 04-04-2015, 10:53 AM   #1
LostCause1979
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Default custome drive shaft for t5 trans swap

I am trying to have a shaft made for swapping in a ford t5 into my 82 242 so i dont need the adapter plate from yoshifab. The company has asked me a question i dont know the answer to. The question follows.

See if the bolt circle on the rear flange is 3.125 and a 2.375 pilot.The diff flange will be a recessed hole - not a male pilot.

This might be plain english to some but ive never messed with drive shafts other then changing out the ujoints and midshaft bearing. Can anyone help me with the correct info i need. Im just wanting to make a 1 piece shaft 3" diameter mustang front yoke volvo rear.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:00 AM   #2
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Why not buy the adapter? I didn't do this and ended up spending $700 on a new driveshaft with a proper centre bearing and more mods to get it all to work. Driveshaft shop didn't want to have two slip yokes in the front section. No other option locally.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:03 AM   #3
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Just buy the adapter. I don't think you stand to gain anything by having a new shaft made.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:17 AM   #4
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$400 for my custom alum shaft, probably end up going back to a 2piece to get rid of the vibration.
You need a Spicer 2-2-237 rear flange. Mates to the 1030/1031, runs a standard 1310 joint.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
$400 for my custom alum shaft, probably end up going back to a 2piece to get rid of the vibration.
You need a Spicer 2-2-237 rear flange. Mates to the 1030/1031, runs a standard 1310 joint.
Did you get it balanced?
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:05 PM   #6
LostCause1979
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Im building a 16v turbo plan on running around 500hp so i want to eliminate one more thing to break. I figure going solid axle back will be better. Thanks for info gsellstr.. that *Spicer 2-2-237 is the correct one for the 82?
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:08 PM   #7
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Does the place that built your shaft gsellstr have a web site or do you have their number..
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:16 PM   #8
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The spicer adapter should work on any 240 rear axle (Dana 30), since they didn't change input flanges to my knowledge.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #9
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I'd be worried more about the U-joints and axles breaking before the 2 piece does at 500hp. One piece you have to be critical of pinion angle, 2 piece you have a little more play for vibration. Buy the Yoshifab adapter, new u joints, center support kit, etc. Maybe a locker?
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
Why not buy the adapter? I didn't do this and ended up spending $700 on a new driveshaft with a proper centre bearing and more mods to get it all to work. Driveshaft shop didn't want to have two slip yokes in the front section. No other option locally.
I received no such warnings when I had the M47 driveshaft shortened and adapted to suit the T5 in my 240. Has worked fine in my car.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569286.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569468.jpg

I supplied an M47 driveshaft and a measurement. I paid for a new weld yoke, new slip yoke, and new front u-joint. I supplied a new center support bearing and they removed the old and pressed on the new. Shortened and balanced. $265 out the door. I could have saved money sourcing the pars elsewhere, but it still wasn't bad at all.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:43 PM   #11
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My 2 piece vibrates bad already not sure why because ive replaced everything front rear. I dont trust it enough to handle it. If i have a little vibration it wouldnt be much different then now just less parts to break.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
$400 for my custom alum shaft, probably end up going back to a 2piece to get rid of the vibration.
You need a Spicer 2-2-237 rear flange. Mates to the 1030/1031, runs a standard 1310 joint.
I was given the length of 45.5 is that correct?
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:21 PM   #13
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Walked in with new parts and my two piece DS, told him a length, $75 later had a modified driveshaft with the t5 slip yolk. Went here. http://www.transaxleparts.com/index....veshaft-centre

They had zero concern for the double slip yolk, I know I did, but the pros didn't.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:30 PM   #14
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostCause1979 View Post
My 2 piece vibrates bad already not sure why because ive replaced everything front rear. I dont trust it enough to handle it. If i have a little vibration it wouldnt be much different then now just less parts to break.
How low is your car?
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Old 04-04-2015, 02:58 PM   #16
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Ive got to raise it up its to low right now. I knkw with the one piece its got to be higher
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:32 PM   #17
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One other thought here. You may be better off having a known "fusible link", so to speak, in the form of a lower capacity U-joint , rather than twisting your newly purchased (custome) (sic) driveshaft into a pretzel, or blowing up your newly installed T-5, or grenading your diff. U-joints are cheap, by comparison...

Last edited by benski; 04-04-2015 at 05:37 PM..
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:33 PM   #18
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Except when a u-joint breaks, everything around is gets beat and the fancy driveshaft is now bent and dented.
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Old 04-05-2015, 12:40 AM   #19
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Sorry guys, been off the computer for a day.

Yes, my shaft was balanced, runout is around .010".
Length is 47", so it's about 1.5" longer than the mustang shaft.
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Old 04-05-2015, 02:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostCause1979 View Post
I was given the length of 45.5 is that correct?
You need to measure your car. Ask your driveshaft shop what measurement they need.

Mine was 50.5"

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Old 04-05-2015, 08:30 AM   #21
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I am rocking the two piece. As towerymt and other have said. Call the shop ask what measurement they need and enjoy. I took mine to driveline specialists in the east bay here I think it was around 150. No vibrations but when I drop the clutch the Ujoint at the transmission hits the transmission tunnel.
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:30 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
I received no such warnings when I had the M47 driveshaft shortened and adapted to suit the T5 in my 240. Has worked fine in my car.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569286.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569468.jpg

I supplied an M47 driveshaft and a measurement. I paid for a new weld yoke, new slip yoke, and new front u-joint. I supplied a new center support bearing and they removed the old and pressed on the new. Shortened and balanced. $265 out the door. I could have saved money sourcing the pars elsewhere, but it still wasn't bad at all.
Trust me - I was not pleased when presented with a brand new drive shaft complete with new style centre bearing. He just sort of shrugged and said that's what it took - new from front to back only used the rear axle flange. I also had the bonded tube shaft not the M47 - and they didn't have the parts to make that work (some nonsense about tube size differences etc). The centre bearing can now handle a thrust load.

That's why I wasn't advocating doing this. The shop basically ripped me off and I was trying to caution the OP that all the singing about "it's cheap" and "don't worry about it it only cost me $150" might also end up like me with a drive shaft that cost almost as much as I paid for the car originally. There are online options (not really for Canadians - shipping plus crap exchange rate sort of kills that right now) and you could buy the adapter from Josh or just make sure your DL shop isn't going to bend you over...that is all.
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Except when a u-joint breaks, everything around is gets beat and the fancy driveshaft is now bent and dented.
What would you suggest instead?
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:16 PM   #24
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If you were somehow able to choose which element of the drivetrain failed, I'd expect an axle shaft to produce the least collateral damage. An overpowered clutch would be even better, but harder to change out. (Unless the flywheel fails, that's bad)

Of course, you could spec everything to an appropriate, approximately equal level of strength, with a suitable safety factor, and not expect anything to break.
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
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If you were somehow able to choose which element of the drivetrain failed, I'd expect an axle shaft to produce the least collateral damage. An overpowered clutch would be even better, but harder to change out. (Unless the flywheel fails, that's bad)

Of course, you could spec everything to an appropriate, approximately equal level of strength, with a suitable safety factor, and not expect anything to break.
There is no perfect answer, as far as I can see. I guess one could always use a driveshaft hoop as well. Me, I just don't beat on that stuff very hard, so I was taking a pointer from my 4 wheeling experience.
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